2.9 engine install

[Kuper]

first of all what a pain to get to some of these bolts!



I am almost done putting in a used 2.9 engine that I picked up cause
my blown head gasket lead to ruined cylinder walls.

I did the following
-rear main and front seal
-new gaskets
-new timing chain set (due to finding tensioner in pan)

I should have bought an oil pump but I cheaped out I cleaned screen best I could

used engine assembly lube various spots

added oil and primed using a old distributor with drill




I Just forgot to take really good photos and my tape I labeled smudged off so


things I need help with maybe photos if possible?

-where does the positive battery lead mount up to midway to starter?

-which spot does oil dipstick bolt up to on exhaust manifold?

-a/c pump picture?

might be more struggle but that is all for right now
any help is appreciated thanks

 

[kaidenshi]

first of all what a pain to get to some of these bolts!

Amen! It took me two solid hours to get the top bolts back in on the bellhousing, taking them out was easier for some reason.

I should have bought an oil pump but I cheaped out I cleaned screen best I could

Yep, you probably should have unless your old one was obviously fine. It's a cheap and easy swap while the engine is on a stand. I got the Melling high flow and reused my screen since it was clean as a whistle after I degreased it.

I Just forgot to take really good photos and my tape I labeled smudged off so

things I need help with maybe photos if possible?

-where does the positive battery lead mount up to midway to starter?

-which spot does oil dipstick bolt up to on exhaust manifold?

-a/c pump picture?

might be more struggle but that is all for right now
any help is appreciated thanks

I can't help with the A/C, my dad had removed the A/C compressor many years ago and never bothered replacing it since it was a V-belt setup. I'll get some good photos of the rest of your problem areas this afternoon and post to this thread. From what I recall when I put my new (used) engine in, the positive battery cable has a bracket clamp bolted to the bottom of the block on the passenger side that makes it a straight shot to the starter. I want to say it's near the bottom corner timing cover bolt; I'll get pics. I think the dipstick bolts to the head, off of one of the hoist brackets. If you don't have your hoist brackets you can still bolt the dipstick to that hole.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Mines still got the A/C stuff, ill see if i can get pics today. Also of where the dipstick bolts

 

[kaidenshi]

Ok here you go, this is the positive battery cable bracket, looking down from the alternator:

Here's a closeup so you can see how it's bolted on:

Here's the oil dipstick bolted to the head using one of the hoist bracket bolts:

Another angle for the dipstick:

Hope this helps!

 

[Kuper]

Oh thank you this does help!


I got the truck running today

A lot of searching on this forum help make it happen.




I need to button up those few parts and pick up a heat barrier that mounts on heater I figure Home Depot should have something.

 

[Kuper]

Dang so the engine has a rod knocking I even checked them before putting in the oil pan I think I have to pull the engine to install rod bearings.

I really appreciate everyone’s help here thanks a million

 

[BrutalPanda]

Dang so the engine has a rod knocking I even checked them before putting in the oil pan I think I have to pull the engine to install rod bearings.

I really appreciate everyone’s help here thanks a million

You may be able to do them with it in, if you can drop the oil pan and oil pump, you can put a chain wrench on the pulley your A/C sits on connected to the balancer to rotate the engine. Might be a bitch, but could be easier than pulling

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

 

[fastpakr]

I think you're just creating a mess by trying to do it with the engine in the chassis. To get the oil pan out, you'll have to at least raise the engine significantly. At that point you'd be working on extremely tight quarters if it's even possible. Simply pulling the engine would add what, a couple of hours? Just do it and handle any other maintenance tasks while it's accessible.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Might be eaiser to yank the motor/trans as a unit.

Dont try to do an inframe. That only works on tractors and semis. Plus, dont halfass it with just bearings, if you rip it apart put a crank/resurface yours while youre at it.

 

[fastpakr]

You can pull the engine and trans together, but it's tight. The bigger the hoist arm, the better.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[Kuper]

Might be eaiser to yank the motor/trans as a unit.

Dont try to do an inframe. That only works on tractors and semis. Plus, dont halfass it with just bearings, if you rip it apart put a crank/resurface yours while youre at it.

Yeah That is kind of what I have figured I did not replace the oil pump and o-ring on oil filter adapter it is leaking some oil now.

should the crank be gone can I put a used crank in?

just hard to find time I work and go to school full time as well in the nat. guard

like I said I cannot thank everyone here enough I am a newbie I realize and I will pay it forward.



at least I will be faster at pulling the engine out now

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Yeah That is kind of what I have figured I did not replace the oil pump and o-ring on oil filter adapter it is leaking some oil now.

should the crank be gone can I put a used crank in?

just hard to find time I work and go to school full time as well in the nat. guard

like I said I cannot thank everyone here enough I am a newbie I realize and I will pay it forward.



at least I will be faster at pulling the engine out now

If its knocking im sure tbe crank is chewed up enough to where if you put new bearings in itll chew them up to.

I No, dont use a used crank unless you take it to a machine shop and have it ground down. Youll then need oversize bearings,

 

[fastpakr]

And you'd probably want to have everything balanced if you're going that far.

 

[Kuper]

Well I stopped and thought about when it started making noise and it was after I snugged the distributor down so I checked my timing and it was retarded maybe 6 to 8 degrees with engine warm and spout out I didn’t really hear the noise today at all I checked everywhere with screwdriver to listen if it does knock again I will double check by pulling plug wires off 1 at a time


so maybe the timing might have been the knock I heard? I am going to change oil and inspect for bearing material I do see light grey on dipstick so that still has my attention any way getting ready for skillsusa welding competition update you all later

Thanks again everyone

 

[rusty ol ranger]

If it was super retarted it coulda been very violent spark knock.