2.8L V6 wont stay running. When running it hesitates. It hesitated when I tried to drive it.

[sgtsandman]

I would use the one that is directly on the block. The other two pictures appear to be looking at bolts or bolt holes on the exhaust manifolds. Those would not be good grounding choices because of the gaskets that go between the manifolds and the engine block.

 

[MadMax_636]

I would use the one that is directly on the block. The other two pictures appear to be looking at bolts or bolt holes on the exhaust manifolds. Those would not be good grounding choices because of the gaskets that go between the manifolds and the engine block.

I didnt think of the head or manifold gaskets.

The bolt above the fuel pump is directly on the block. Im assuming your talking about using that one?

I got a long cable not thinking about how much I needed. Would It be smart to use a longer cable or shorter cable? I think I've got a 56" cable. I think that's 56 inches. My math sucks...

 

[sgtsandman]

You want it long enough that it doesn't have any tension on the cable. It needs to allow the engine to move however it needs to move. Too long won't hurt anything is long as it isn't flapping around and rubbing on anything. You don't want a chaffing issue that will wear the insulation off and short the cable.

As far as the bolt above the fuel pump. If that is the one that goes directly into the block, then yes, that one. Make sure the contact surface is clean and free of any oil or fluid that might cause a connection issue.

 

[MadMax_636]

You want it long enough that it doesn't have any tension on the cable. It needs to allow the engine to move however it needs to move. Too long won't hurt anything is long as it isn't flapping around and rubbing on anything. You don't want a chaffing issue that will wear the insulation off and short the cable.

As far as the bolt above the fuel pump. If that is the one that goes directly into the block, then yes, that one. Make sure the contact surface is clean and free of any oil or fluid that might cause a connection issue.

Thanks! Ill mock it up and see how it looks and how Im gonna have to run the wire.

 

[MadMax_636]

You want it long enough that it doesn't have any tension on the cable. It needs to allow the engine to move however it needs to move. Too long won't hurt anything is long as it isn't flapping around and rubbing on anything. You don't want a chaffing issue that will wear the insulation off and short the cable.

As far as the bolt above the fuel pump. If that is the one that goes directly into the block, then yes, that one. Make sure the contact surface is clean and free of any oil or fluid that might cause a connection issue.

That bolt worked perfectly and cleaned up nicely. I ran the wire under the motor to the battery and had strong power.

 

[MadMax_636]

UPDATE: I've got everything all together. The starter is happy, wiring is hot to the module, The wiring to the dizzy is wired up right.
I got a gasket for the new EGR. I put the shim over the new gasket since it sealed it pretty good, The old gasket on the EGR valve was brittle as a dead animal in the Mojave. I also tested the vacuum on the valve and it kept getting stuck open. I did try and clean it out with the carb cleaner but it didn't really help.

So, After I got everything wired upright. The motor just cranked. Im wondering how I need to turn the dizzy to get her to fire her up. I turned it counterclockwise. The battery was running down so Im charging it over night.

 

[RobbieD]

The distributor turns clockwise. When you set the distributor at cylinder #1 TDC, if the rotor was dead on the #1 cap terminal you would turn it counterclockwise slightly to get spark advance. But at this point, just try moving the dizzy back and forth until the motor tries to fire. You may get some backfires, so be careful. You can also put your timing light on it to see if you can see the timing mark on the crank pulley. You've checked, and you have got spark on the plug wires, right?

 

[MadMax_636]

The distributor turns clockwise. When you set the distributor at cylinder #1 TDC, if the rotor was dead on the #1 cap terminal you would turn it counterclockwise slightly to get spark advance. But at this point, just try moving the dizzy back and forth until the motor tries to fire. You may get some backfires, so be careful. You can also put your timing light on it to see if you can see the timing mark on the crank pulley. You've checked, and you have got spark on the plug wires, right?

OK, so just turn it back and forth until I get it to try and fire up?

I thought I had to either retard or advance the timing. My mistake.
I haven't tried using the timing light just yet. Since my battery was dropping in charge and I had to put it on the charger. I removed it from the truck to charger it in my garage. So I don't have wires just going under the hood and it doesn't give anyone any ideas.

Tomorrow after the battery is nice and charged up fully, Ill do that test. Though, Ill need someone to either use the timing light or crank it for me. Today I didn't have anyone to help me. This whole project has been solo besides yall helping me.
I did check with my test light to see if everything was getting power (That is the hot wires on the double and such. Ill double check everything tomorrow. Though Im pretty sure its all good.

 

[RobbieD]

What I do to check spark is to pull a plug wire, stick a screwdriver tip in between the boot and the terminal, then find a spot on the block where I can lay the screwdriver handle so that there's a small gap between the screwdriver shaft and the block, and where I can see it when I turn the key to crank the engine. Quick and easy.

 

[MadMax_636]

What I do to check spark is to pull a plug wire, stick a screwdriver tip in between the boot and the terminal, then find a spot on the block where I can lay the screwdriver handle so that there's a small gap between the screwdriver shaft and the block, and where I can see it when I turn the key to crank the engine. Quick and easy.

Ill try that for sure! Thanks! Learning about tricks and stuff of this sort is my favorite part of working on older cars.

 

[franklin2]

If you are not getting spark by the screwdriver method, the next thing to do is to clip your testlight to a good ground, and probe the wire that goes from the coil to the module. When you crank the engine it should blink. That is the module turning the coil on and off to make spark.

 

[MadMax_636]

If you are not getting spark by the screwdriver method, the next thing to do is to clip your testlight to a good ground, and probe the wire that goes from the coil to the module. When you crank the engine it should blink. That is the module turning the coil on and off to make spark.

Do I need to put it on the + or - Point? Since The power (Red wire) that goes to the module and the coil or the (Green) wire that goes from the coil to the module?

 

[franklin2]

The + side of the coil has power from the key, like the module. The negative side of the coil goes straight to the module. The module grounds and ungrounds the negative of the coil to make it generate spark. The testlight will pick this up and blink when the engine is turning.

 

[MadMax_636]

So I put the battery back in. I went to crank it over. It just clicks again. Yesterday the starter worked perfectly and everything seemed fine.

So after some testing with my multimeter. The voltage dropped down to 4.5-6.0v when the key was on. when the key was off. It sat at a nice 12.55v
I also tested the starter solenoid to see if it was getting voltage to the post the starter cable was on and Nothing. The first time this happened I was getting 12+ volts on that post.

The only thing I can think that the battery is failing. Since I don't know the age of it nor the condition of the battery. I might as well get a new one. Since I put it on the charger again and it charging... I'm thinking its not capable of holding a charge and the cold cranking amps are gone. It is a pretty old interstate battery. I've checked all of my wires. I checked the starter to see if the wire to it was fine, wires on the solenoid, wires on the driver side harness, and I also tested the system with my interior lights and headlights. Just a few mins before typing this. I would turn the key and the lights on the dash were so damn dim I could barely see them even if I cupped my face around the dash. I also turned the dome light on with the key on and the dome light went out. Same for when I tested it with the headlights.

Either I've got something wrong with the wiring SOMEWHERE or the battery is failing on me. Wanting me to take it out to pasture.

 

[franklin2]

I am glad you got your meter out. I think you are getting it. Think of the wires as water pipes with water flowing through them. Think of the battery as a container of water with a pump.

Your meter is measuring the water pressure (voltage) at different points in the system. You are just looking for the point where you are losing pressure (voltage).

So when you try to crank it, you are demanding a lot of water pressure. You are not getting it. So you just need to put your meter on the negative post of the battery, and start probing the wires (water pipes) starting at the battery. Problem is, unless you have it rigged up you need help to demand pressure from the system to be able to check it properly. You need someone in there turning the key to start while you are holding the meter on the battery and other places.

So if you were able to put your meter right on the battery posts, and tried to crank it and the voltage went to 6 volts after being on the charger all night, I agree your battery is no good.