2.8L V6 wont stay running. When running it hesitates. It hesitated when I tried to drive it.

[franklin2]

The test for a leaking EGR valve... once the engine is running... at idle, apply vacuum to the EGR valve, the engine should stumble. If it doesn’t, the valve is plugged.

Some day when you pull the intake and heads, I bet you’ll find a solid chunk of carbon blocking the flow of exhaust gas to the spacer.

The plunger is sprung loaded, you can push it in and try to clean it with some carburetor cleaner.

You’re missing pretty much everything that is required for that valve to function. I’d get a new gasket and put in back. Once you get it running, think about it you need it gone.

This thread is a mile long, but way back there somewhere is a picture he took of his EGR valve. It looks terrible. To me it's too risky just to stick it on there, it may be stuck open. I would block it off. Someone had already blocked mine off with a plate, I got tired of looking at it and took a hacksaw and sawed most of the valve off, and what was left I bolted back on with the block-off plate.

P.S. On his vacuum advance, these computer carbs do a have a ported vacuum source. It was factory plugged and is on the front driver's side of the carb. But I haven't mentioned it much lately, he has got too many things going on, and needs to get the engine running. The vacuum advance is not required to get it running and driving.

 

[MadMax_636]

This thread is a mile long, but way back there somewhere is a picture he took of his EGR valve. It looks terrible. To me it's too risky just to stick it on there, it may be stuck open. I would block it off. Someone had already blocked mine off with a plate, I got tired of looking at it and took a hacksaw and sawed most of the valve off, and what was left I bolted back on with the block-off plate.

P.S. On his vacuum advance, these computer carbs do a have a ported vacuum source. It was factory plugged and is on the front driver's side of the carb. But I haven't mentioned it much lately, he has got too many things going on, and needs to get the engine running. The vacuum advance is not required to get it running and driving.

 

[AndyB.]

The gasket is still stuck to the bottom of that valve—just bolt it back in. It will do more to plug that vacuum leak than a paper towel.

 

[MadMax_636]

UPDATE: I got the crap out of the motor, valve cover back on and bolted, I reinstalled my spark plug wires, redid the wires for the dizzy.

My Negative/ground wire is broken.... Ive got a replacement clamp but idk how to strip the old wires. As its short.
I didn't know how to test my starter. I hooked it up to my battery and such. The cables just sparked and didnt do anything. I did get it moving freely though. Its not stiff anymore.

Now, All I need to do is get the starter reinstalled (Since I didn't hook it up yet) and replace the ground clamp. I had been putting it off for a while. No auto parts store even carry a ground strap or anything regarding to a ground wire. Its all positive wires.

EDIT:
Do I even need an engine ground? Could I just run a ground wire to the frame? Since the motor is attached to the frame by the motor mounts. Which I'm assuming are metal. I do plan on running a motor ground If I SHOULD/NEED one ATM. I just wanna get the truck running. Ill cut some corners right now and then down the road. Ill run the motor ground. The main reason I'm asking is that the ground wire is attached (held onto not grounded) to the frame and then looks to run to the side of the motor.

 

[sgtsandman]

Yes, you need a ground on the engine. The motor mounts often have rubber in them for vibration isolation. Grounds fail all the time, so checking a site like ebay or amazon for a replacement that is close or a match should be pretty easy. Those will probably be the cheapest places outside of maybe Rock Auto.

 

[MadMax_636]

Yes, you need a ground on the engine. The motor mounts often have rubber in them for vibration isolation. Grounds fail all the time, so checking a site like ebay or amazon for a replacement that is close or a match should be pretty easy. Those will probably be the cheapest places outside of maybe Rock Auto.

Yeah, after writing that I thought about it and I felt dumb. Ill get a new ground wire.

 

[sgtsandman]

Better to ask and be told no than not ask, do it, and end up having a problem because you didn't ask.

 

[MadMax_636]

Better to ask and be told no than not ask, do it, and end up having a problem because you didn't ask.

Could I use the new clamp I got and get 2 grounding straps? Put one on the block and one on the frame?

 

[sgtsandman]

New clamp? I must have missed something. As long as it works with whatever you're replacing, sure. In general, I try to replace with an item made similar to what I'm replacing. Identical when it matters.

 

[MadMax_636]

New clamp? I must have missed something. As long as it works with whatever you're replacing, sure. In general, I try to replace with an item made similar to what I'm replacing. Identical when it matters.

I think I mentioned it on here but I bought a pair of new clamps. Its not a pole with a wing clamp on it. So Im assuming normally Id just wing the cables around it and tighten the wingnut?

What Im thinking about doing (Tell me if Im missing something here) Im thinking of using one of these [https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-15-in-universal-ground-strap-60213/5701635-P] and put one on the block, and to the frame and then to the clamp itself.

Am Im missing something? Im considering just buying a new ticker cable but the soonest is either 15th or the 17th....

 

[sgtsandman]

Make sure the length and thickness is the same to what you are replacing. Too long and it can get caught on things. Too short and it can break from engine movement. Too thin a wire, and it won't provide proper flow for the circuit you are grounding.

Wing nut cables on vehicles is generally not recommended.

 

[MadMax_636]

Make sure the length and thickness is the same to what you are replacing. Too long and it can get caught on things. Too short and it can break from engine movement. Too thin a wire, and it won't provide proper flow for the circuit you are grounding.

Wing nut cables on vehicles is generally not recommended.

Ok,

Here are the clamps Ive got. [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Everstar...-Volt-Battery-Terminals-Epoxy-Coated/16006677]
Heres the one I'm thinking I should get right? [https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Top-Post-Heavy-Duty-Battery-Terminal/16006683]

 

[sgtsandman]

Your second posted terminal is notorious for future issues since nothing seals the wire from the elements. Last resort, you can use them but expect future problems.

Your first posted terminals, using a wing nut terminal work ok for your negative terminal since it's easier to find a cable with ends to match. Also, it makes for a convenient quick disconnect for when you are doing work that you don't want your battery connected.

For the positive side, it depends on what you can find but it is generally better to have a solid cable with the battery terminal attached and sealed from the elements. If you don't have any other choice, the wing nut and a red cable with terminal ends that will work with the wing nut and being bolted to your starter or wherever.

Personally, I would rather get a factory or factory like positive battery cable at a minimum. The negative battery cable being factory or factory like as well would be even better.

 

[franklin2]

That ground strap you linked to from advance is a body ground strap. That is not a main ground for the battery.

I am not sure why people have so much trouble finding battery cables and struggle with repair clamp ends and sometimes going to the trouble to make their own cables, soldering the ends and all that. Anytime I need a new cable, I just walk into the store, go over to the rack and pick out what I want. They have black. red, several different lengths, and you can get them with battery terminal ends, or eyes on each end to go to the solenoid and the starter. That was awhile back, maybe they don't carry them anymore?

Here's a bunch from autozone. https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...cable&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false

I notice the ones they are listing are all black. You can put a piece of red tape around the end to keep from getting them mixed up.

And yes, the motor mounts are rubber, the transmission mount is rubber, the rear leaf springs that mount the rearend are rubber. The power hog that needs the large battery cables is the starter. So the large cables go to the starter, the large ground cable goes to the engine block. And then you need a smaller ground strap going from the back of the engine block to the firewall.

 

[MadMax_636]

Your second posted terminal is notorious for future issues since nothing seals the wire from the elements. Last resort, you can use them but expect future problems.

Your first posted terminals, using a wing nut terminal work ok for your negative terminal since it's easier to find a cable with ends to match. Also, it makes for a convenient quick disconnect for when you are doing work that you don't want your battery connected.

For the positive side, it depends on what you can find but it is generally better to have a solid cable with the battery terminal attached and sealed from the elements. If you don't have any other choice, the wing nut and a red cable with terminal ends that will work with the wing nut and being bolted to your starter or wherever.

Personally, I would rather get a factory or factory like positive battery cable at a minimum. The negative battery cable being factory or factory like as well would be even better.

Since the original block grounding point bolt was seized and I really don't wanna have to deal with trying to break it free. Since its so hidden away. I also don't wanna break anything else.

Would either of these points make good motor grounds?