2.8L V6 wont stay running. When running it hesitates. It hesitated when I tried to drive it.

[RobbieD]

Good; he's done the GM setup.

I watched the video. Now I'm dizzy.

 

[MadMax_636]

Good; he's done the GM setup.

I watched the video. Now I'm dizzy.

Sorry about that. Limited gear to mount the camera/phone.

So I need to splice into the white wire to get ON and crank hot?
Do I even need the red wire that gets hot during cranking?

 

[RobbieD]

Sorry about that. Limited gear to mount the camera/phone.

So I need to splice into the white wire to get ON and crank hot?
Do I even need the red wire that gets hot during cranking?

The factory White (with Light Blue dashes) should be hot (have +12v) in RUN and START. So, yes, you can use this one wire for your "ignition power".

Look at the schematic; the round black connector is C107.

 

[MadMax_636]

Thank you @RobbieD and @franklin2 for all of the help! Id be dead in the water without yalls motivation and help!

 

[RobbieD]

I'm glad to try and help, and I like how you're coming along, and sticking with it. Now, let's make that bitch run!

 

[MadMax_636]

I'm glad to try and help, and I like how you're coming along, and sticking with it. Now, let's make that bitch run!

Hell Yeah! I wanna hear her sing!

Once I get her running. Im gonna do valve adjustment. Im starting to miss the valve clatter haha.

 

[franklin2]

Yes, as long as you have power during crank and run you are good. I guess it depends on how you cut the harness up. I was looking at the diagram that Robbie posted, I guess if the red/lightgreen wire and the brown/pink are both still under the same pin on c102. during cranking voltage will run down the brown/pink, backwards up the red/lightgreen back to the ignition switch, and then down the white/blue wire, giving you power during cranking on the white/blue.

As long as it works.

 

[MadMax_636]

Yes, as long as you have power during crank and run you are good. I guess it depends on how you cut the harness up. I was looking at the diagram that Robbie posted, I guess if the red/lightgreen wire and the brown/pink are both still under the same pin on c102. during cranking voltage will run down the brown/pink, backwards up the red/lightgreen back to the ignition switch, and then down the white/blue wire, giving you power during cranking on the white/blue.

As long as it works.

Cool! When I splice into it. Should I have it still giving power to s207? There is a wire that only gets hot when cracking? Should I just cut it or cap it off somehow? Im assuming its useless as when I went to look at my stock photo of that wiring setup. It went off to the passenger's side wiring.

 

[sgtsandman]

I can't help you much with troubleshooting your current issues but I would like to help you with future ones. Since you already have terminals on some of the wires already, I would coat those as best you can with dielectric grease to keep moisture out of them. The terminals you used are not water tight and will eventually corrode. In the future, I would get terminals that have heat shrink on them already or buy heat shrink to seal up where the wires are crimped into the terminal connectors. With the terminals you have on the module, there isn't much you can do other than coat them with dielectric grease. But there are better options for the terminals themselves. Engine bays see a lot of moisture in them when the roads are wet and it's raining. I've learned the hard way and hope to eliminate some misery for yourself.

 

[RobbieD]

I can't help you much with troubleshooting your current issues but I would like to help you with future ones. Since you already have terminals on some of the wires already, I would coat those as best you can with dielectric grease to keep moisture out of them. The terminals you used are not water tight and will eventually corrode. In the future, I would get terminals that have heat shrink on them already or buy heat shrink to seal up where the wires are crimped into the terminal connectors. With the terminals you have on the module, there isn't much you can do other than coat them with dielectric grease. But there are better options for the terminals themselves. Engine bays see a lot of moisture in them when the roads are wet and it's raining. I've learned the hard way and hope to eliminate some misery for yourself.

That's excellent advice; thanks for bringing it up.

@MadMax_636 -

I wouldn't even mess with splice S207. Did you mean splice S128 instead?

The pictures in your post #168 (page 12) look to show splice S128, where the Brown / Pink START wire joins the White / Light Blue dashed RUN wire, between C102 and C107. If you're using the Brown / Pink wire for your ignition power, and it tests as +12v (hot) in key positions RUN and START, then you shouldn't have to reconnect the two wires at S128. But, it won't hurt anything if you do reconnect these wires. Actually, restoring this connection (splice S128) puts your wiring back closer to the stock configuration, and will probably make it easier to clean up (loom) the harness once you do have it running.

 

[MadMax_636]

That's excellent advice; thanks for bringing it up.

@MadMax_636 -

I wouldn't even mess with splice S207. Did you mean splice S128 instead?

The pictures in your post #168 (page 12) look to show splice S128, where the Brown / Pink START wire joins the White / Light Blue dashed RUN wire, between C102 and C107. If you're using the Brown / Pink wire for your ignition power, and it tests as +12v (hot) in key positions RUN and START, then you shouldn't have to reconnect the two wires at S128. But, it won't hurt anything if you do reconnect these wires. Actually, restoring this connection (splice S128) puts your wiring back closer to the stock configuration, and will probably make it easier to clean up (loom) the harness once you do have it running.

Were yall talking about tapping into this wire? Im also assuming you are saying I don't need to hook up this connector? If so, The hot end plugs up into another hot end. (The same white wires on the male and female are hot)

 

[RobbieD]

The wire

Were yall talking about tapping into this wire? Im also assuming you are saying I don't need to hook up this connector? If so, The hot end plugs up into another hot end. (The same white wires on the male and female are hot)

The wire that you have circled (Brown / Pink) should be all that you need for ignition power. It's up to you if you want to keep both sides of the black round C107 connector in the truck- you can go either way.

 

[franklin2]

I can't help you much with troubleshooting your current issues but I would like to help you with future ones. Since you already have terminals on some of the wires already, I would coat those as best you can with dielectric grease to keep moisture out of them. The terminals you used are not water tight and will eventually corrode. In the future, I would get terminals that have heat shrink on them already or buy heat shrink to seal up where the wires are crimped into the terminal connectors. With the terminals you have on the module, there isn't much you can do other than coat them with dielectric grease. But there are better options for the terminals themselves. Engine bays see a lot of moisture in them when the roads are wet and it's raining. I've learned the hard way and hope to eliminate some misery for yourself.

I haven't been on this board very long, but I haven't run across people talking about the problem I ran into with my 86 ranger and my 84 Bronco II.

When I first got my ranger, it had wiring problems. There was some corrosion on the FACTORY connectors over on the driver's side inner fender. Repaired that, but noticed I was getting moisture and sometimes road salt in that area. I looked down over top of the steering box, it's pretty much wide open to the road down there. When you make a left turn and it's wet outside, the driver's side front tire throws water and anything else on the road right up through the open area near the steering box.

I looked for evidence of a factory splash shield, saw some holes there, but no real evidence that it ever had something there. I took a piece of rubber I found and cut it out so it fit around the ignition coil and bolted it on and let it lay down and clear the steering shaft, it lays on top a portion of the steering box. Problem went away.

Bought the Bronco II, started driving it, had the same problems again. I am not driving the ranger now, so went up and unbolted my homemade splash shield and bolted it into the bronco. I can't believe the factory left that open down there like that.

 

[sgtsandman]

Ford has been horrible in moisture mitigation themselves. When I got my 2011 Ford Ranger, I cleaned the back of the plug going into the climate control fan and RTV'd the crap out of it. Why? You may ask. My 1998 Ranger damn near caught fire because of terminal corrosion and short circuiting. The plug was black and melted because of it. The replacement pigtail got the same treatment that the 2011 got as a result. I probably should have did that to the connections going into the PCM on the firewall but never did.

 

[MadMax_636]

UDPATE:
Fixed the wiring
Reseated the dist (One tooth other. The rotor is pointing at #1 cylinder)
Installed the carb and primed the system (Somewhat filled the bowl and primed the accelerator pump. Will fill the bowl fully tomorrow so its running longer at first startup)
I need help with the wiring for the alternator. (I can't find anywhere on the web of where the plugs go. (the colored plugs are dirty and faded.) Tell me where to plug them in if Ive plugged them in wrong. I think I've got it right but just need to be checked. Since I don't wanna damage anything.

Just gotta reseat the starter, maybe charge the battery (Its been sitting...), and Pray, bump the starter/engage the starter and pray for the best.