2.8L V6 wont stay running. When running it hesitates. It hesitated when I tried to drive it.

[franklin2]

Cool. My harness was hillabilly repaired at some point. So some of my wires were mismatched already. So this connector was patched in at some point. The round one....

Going off the diagram @RobbieD had posted of the gray plug. I figured out that was the 12v.

I hate to keep harping on this, but in the above pictures, where did you tie in your red wire? I tied mine in at your red splice. In other words, I took the two bare copper wires you had in the lower picture, twisted them together, and put them in one end of a butt connector. Then I hooked my 12v power wire on the other end of the butt connector.

The grey connector has 12v during cranking, the round connector has 12v during run. Both of these wires need to be tied together like you did, but that is the spot where your red wire needs to go also.

Here's my picture with the blue butt connector for power.

2.8 hei conversion by D Franklin, on Flickr

 

[MadMax_636]

I hate to keep harping on this, but in the above pictures, where did you tie in your red wire? I tied mine in at your red splice. In other words, I took the two bare copper wires you had in the lower picture, twisted them together, and put them in one end of a butt connector. Then I hooked my 12v power wire on the other end of the butt connector.

The grey connector has 12v during cranking, the round connector has 12v during run. Both of these wires need to be tied together like you did, but that is the spot where your red wire needs to go also.

Here's my picture with the blue butt connector for power.

2.8 hei conversion by D Franklin, on Flickr

The issue with your photo. Is that I can't really see where any of the wires go.
Around the butt connector (A) I can't see where anything goes. Number (2) connector looks like its got a wire going to the main gray plug.
Then it looks like gray plug is coming out of it. Which I can't seem to find/see on my truck.

Could you take a photo of your setup with a better indication of where cables go and come from?

 

[franklin2]

You must be looking at it on a phone? Right above the yellow letter "A" in the photo is a dirty looking wire with dots on it. That is actually a white with blue dot wire, and it goes to that round black connector to the left of the heatsink.

Right behind that dirty looking wire above is a darker brown looking wire. You follow it up and it looks like it has a white band on it, that is a piece of tape I put on it to label it. It goes right into the grey connector. This is the brown/pink wire and goes into the grey connector. You can see the grey connector right beside to the left of the round black connector. These are the two hot wires.

You need two Ford hot wires. In the computer wiring you took out, these two wires were spliced together. When the computer wires are taken out, you lose that splice and need to splice them back together again. You did splice them together, but is that where you are getting your 12v for the ignition system?

 

[MadMax_636]

You must be looking at it on a phone? Right above the yellow letter "A" in the photo is a dirty looking wire with dots on it. That is actually a white with blue dot wire, and it goes to that round black connector to the left of the heatsink.

Right behind that dirty looking wire above is a darker brown looking wire. You follow it up and it looks like it has a white band on it, that is a piece of tape I put on it to label it. It goes right into the grey connector. This is the brown/pink wire and goes into the grey connector. You can see the grey connector right beside to the left of the round black connector. These are the two hot wires.

You need two Ford hot wires. In the computer wiring you took out, these two wires were spliced together. When the computer wires are taken out, you lose that splice and need to splice them back together again. You did splice them together, but is that where you are getting your 12v for the ignition system?

Im looking at it on my desktop and looking at on the hosting site you posted the photo. Since it lets you zoom in

Heres a video.

The circular connector. There is a gray wire. Do I need to tap into it?

 

[MadMax_636]

You need two Ford hot wires. In the computer wiring you took out, these two wires were spliced together. When the computer wires are taken out, you lose that splice and need to splice them back together again. You did splice them together, but is that where you are getting your 12v for the ignition system?

I believe so, The only 12v on that gray plug was that one wire.

Gray wire off gray connector goes to the circular connector with a single red wire.

 

[franklin2]

The PDF in post #152 that Robbie D put up has the grey connector. Did you ever get a testlight? When you get ready to start it, put the testlight on your red wire. If it has power when you turn the key AND power when you are cranking, you are good.

 

[MadMax_636]

The PDF in post #152 that Robbie D put up has the grey connector. Did you ever get a testlight? When you get ready to start it, put the testlight on your red wire. If it has power when you turn the key AND power when you are cranking, you are good.

Alright, Thats what Ill do. I need to fix the starter before attempting to start the motor.

 

[RobbieD]

The PDF in post #152 that Robbie D put up has the grey connector. Did you ever get a testlight? When you get ready to start it, put the testlight on your red wire. If it has power when you turn the key AND power when you are cranking, you are good.

@MadMax_636 - do use a test light to test your power wire. Damned if I can remember on mine, and I don't really want to untape my harness, but the Brown / Pink START wire and the Red / Light Green RUN wire should also be joined on the truck side of C102. It should do the same thing as the where the Brown / Pink START joins White / Light Blue RUN after C102 (which @franklin2 had mentioned earlier).

If your new power wire to the new system is +12v in START and RUN, you're good. If not you'll simply have to join the two wires (the START and one of the RUN wires).

Added: You can still test the ignition switch operation without the starter connected.

 

[MadMax_636]

I figured out some stuff. Mainly wiring stuff. I'm posting a video about it below.

I figured out 2 wires that have power. and 2 that don't. The ones I wired to the module don't have power going through them. That is when the key is in the ON position. I haven't tested cranking yet. Since I need to fix my starter. I'd rather not do that just yet. Since I need to lift the truck. I'd rather get the wiring stuff sorted out before I start breaking out the jack and stands. Since its a pain to drag them through the dirt around my house and stuff.

Besides that, In the video. I asked a few questions. Mainly about which wires I need to tap/splice into.

 

[RobbieD]

Well, shit. I only rarely watch a video on the internet, and my PC doesn't even have speakers. And no, I don't have a smart phone (cell phones are an instrument of the Devil!).

 

[MadMax_636]

Well, shit. I only rarely watch a video on the internet, and my PC doesn't even have speakers. And no, I don't have a smartphone (cell phones are an instrument of the Devil!).

Ive got a smartphone but Its only used for things like basic shit. I used to have a blackberry. Shows my age haha. I hate the smartphone age. Sometimes they can be good (GPS, music, and quick web searches.)

Yeah, In the video I just show the wires that were getting power when the key was in the ON position. A few questions were asked as well.

 

[RobbieD]

Ive got a smartphone but Its only used for things like basic shit. I used to have a blackberry. Shows my age haha. I hate the smartphone age. Sometimes they can be good (GPS, music, and quick web searches.)

Yeah, In the video I just show the wires that were getting power when the key was in the ON position. A few questions were asked as well.

Did the wires keep power when you turned the key to START? If you disconnect the small wire at the starter solenoid (the Red / Light Blue START wire- it unplugs) you can turn the key to START, to test your ignition hot wires, without the starter engaging.

Blackberry, hell! I still prefer post cards. We had smoke signals before that . . .

 

[MadMax_636]

Did the wires keep power when you turned the key to START? If you disconnect the small wire at the starter solenoid (the Red / Light Blue START wire- it unplugs) you can turn the key to START, to test your ignition hot wires, without the starter engaging.

Blackberry, hell! I still prefer post cards. We had smoke signals before that . . .

I was thinking about doing that. I only thought it might cause the solenoid to have to much power going through it fuse together. (I had it happen on me once before)

Yeah, Blackberries are my prefers smartphone. Since they have read keyboards, cant do shit in terms of what modern smartphones can do.
It has everything I need. camera, music, email, SMS, phone, and basic web browser.

I wish I could have grown up in a time when technology wasn't everywhere! I worked in IT with my dad before he passed. So technology is in my blood haha. I wish I could go back to a more simpler time.

 

[MadMax_636]

Did the wires keep power when you turned the key to START? If you disconnect the small wire at the starter solenoid (the Red / Light Blue START wire- it unplugs) you can turn the key to START, to test your ignition hot wires, without the starter engaging.

Blackberry, hell! I still prefer post cards. We had smoke signals before that . . .

So I did the test you told me to do. Take the starter wire off the solenoid. The white wire is pure hot. (Crank and on) the red wire gets power only on cranking. So I'm assuming franklin can fill me in on what needs to happen.

I'll post a video once Im able (should be a few mins after this post)

 

[MadMax_636]

Videos of wires

@franklin2 Might be able to tell me what needs to be spliced. Dont wanna cut anything until Im 10,000% sure.