• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

1994 Ford Ranger fuel pump only comes on when fuel relay bypassed but still no start


Joined
Jul 24, 2022
Messages
7
City
North Carolina
Vehicle Year
1994
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Hey guys, I came across this forum during my research into my 1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0L's start symptoms. I read through https://www.therangerstation.com/fo.../1994-ranger-low-voltage-at-fuel-pump.176150/ which was very helpful. I don't wish to hijack that, and since my symptom seems to be different, I figured to start a thread here. I would be grateful for any help!

Background:
1. Truck has long taken three starts to get running, but after running has been fine. I figured it was just because I drive it once or twice a week.
2. A couple weeks ago, I drove the truck with the dogs up to the park a few miles away, walked them around the park, and then drove back. Half way home, while sitting at a stop light, the truck died. Would not turn over. Lights barely on.
3. My friend jump started the truck, but I had to keep revving it to keep it going.
4. When we disconnected the jumper cables, I still had to keep revving it to keep it going and it seemed to fight me. Really wanted to die. Finally it did.
5. I got it towed home.
6. I brought the battery in the house that night and tried to charge it but without success.
7. I took it to the battery shop to have them test. They charged it overnight and then load tested it the next day. It failed immediately.
8. I bought a refurbished battery and reinstalled it in the truck.
9. Now the truck turns over without issue, but it will not start.

Symptoms/tests:
1. When I spray fuel starter in the intake, the truck attempts to fire. That is, I can tell the spark plugs fire at least once or twice. But there's obviously not enough fuel to actually start it. This makes me think it's a fuel issue.
2. When I turn the key, the fuel pump does not come on.
3. But when I bypass the fuel pressure relay, i.e. jumping the pins, I can hear the fuel pump start and fuel flow to the front. However, the truck still will not start, neither with this running for a few minutes or while it is running.
4. When I check the fuel pressure, I get nothing during repeat turns of the key. However, when I bypass the fuel pressure relay, I get pressure around 50psi (if I recall).
5. I checked the inertia switch, and it was not tripped. When I bypass it, the truck still will not start.
6. I bought a spare fuel pump relay, and since it is the same as the EEC relay, I swapped it around and tested, but the symptom remains.
7. I tested all the fuses in the engine compartment with my multi-meter.
8. I pulled the EEC and checked the capacitors. They are in the same condition that I left them when I replaced them years ago. That is, nothing appears to have deteriorated beyond what I remember it being. That said, the EEC is old and my soldering job wasn't the greatest at the time, so it could potentially be replaced, as long as I can rule out everything else.
9. I disconnected what I think is the front O2 sensor (accessible from the engine compartment on the driver side) per https://www.2carpros.com/questions/ford-ranger-1994-ford-ranger-fuel-pump, but the symptom remained.
10. No check engine light is on. Dash looks and functions fine.

Things I've replaced:
1. I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump.
2. I also replaced the fuel pressure regulator.
3. I also replaced the fuel pump relay.
 
I’m almost wondering if your alternator failed and fried the battery and maybe something else? I know I’ve jumped vehicles with no battery and after they were running they stayed that way until you stall them or shut them off as long as the alternator was good. Unless a bad battery could put that much load on the electrical that it wouldn’t stay running
 
I’m almost wondering if your alternator failed and fried the battery and maybe something else? I know I’ve jumped vehicles with no battery and after they were running they stayed that way until you stall them or shut them off as long as the alternator was good. Unless a bad battery could put that much load on the electrical that it wouldn’t stay running
It's possible. The battery was about four years old, so it's hard to tell if it failed due to lack of proper charging or failed due to age. From reading, I should I should be able to at least start the engine and run it for a while on just battery. Supposedly one can't do that for very long without damaging the battery. I am just really puzzled why the fuel pump (old and new same symptom) doesn't run and pressurize the line. Seems like the EEC isn't telling it to do that.
 
It's possible. The battery was about four years old, so it's hard to tell if it failed due to lack of proper charging or failed due to age. From reading, I should I should be able to at least start the engine and run it for a while on just battery. Supposedly one can't do that for very long without damaging the battery. I am just really puzzled why the fuel pump (old and new same symptom) doesn't run and pressurize the line. Seems like the EEC isn't telling it to do that.
Yeah, it should start and run on just a battery. I’m just wondering if the alternator put a power surge and fried a wire or fusible link or something and that’s why the pump isn’t getting the signal to run. I’d probably get the alternator tested. Another thing to check is grounds, bad ground wires can cause all sorts of ugly issues, I’ve been down that road before, even had one main ground corrode to junk inside the insulation, only caught it because the wire sounded really crunchy when flexed and skinning off some insulation revealed the damage. I’m at the point where I make new battery wires out of welding cable and use dielectric grease or No-Alox on the ends. If you have a known good EEC, it would be worth trying
 
Hey guys, I have some new intel!

So the first thing is about the fuel pump relay and the no fuel pump start condition when I turn the key on: When I run a jumper wire from the ground side (pin 85) to the battery ground, with the fuel relay pushed in on top, the fuel pump starts with key on and successfully pressurizes the fuel rail! This is the first time the fuel pump has actually started with key on.

But unfortunately the truck still won't start!

So the next thing is a series of voltage tests during key on:
  • Fuel pump relay: Voltage from trigger side (pin 86) to ground side (pin 85) is 9.8v.
  • Fuel pump relay: Voltage from trigger side (pin 86) to battery ground is 12.3v.
  • EEC power relay: Voltage from trigger side (pin 86) to ground side (pin 85) is 11.6v.
  • EEC power relay: Voltage from trigger side (pin 86) to battery ground is 11.7v.
I don't know if the above looks right or not.

Another test during key switch: Voltage across the 30A ECC power fuse, 60A fuse PNL, 40A fuse PNL, and 60A ignition fuse does not register any voltage at all.
(But with key off, testing resistance validates all the fuses.)
Never mind on this test. I did not realize electricity would not flow over the multi-meter in addition to the fuses. I have been educated! :)

Does this make anyone thing I'm dealing with a bad EEC?

UPDATE: A friend recommended I check the voltage at the EEC plug side to make sure the voltage from power relay (above) is actually reaching the EEC. I will plan to do that this weekend. I'm trying to rule out (or confirm) faulty wiring before I drop $175 or more on an educated guess that it's the EEC!

UPDATE 2: I just performed the steps starting on page 25 of my fancy new Ford OBD I Code Reader (for EEC IV and MCU). My Ford's computer is EEC IV, and interestingly I got zero response from the EEC. It seems to either have no power or is dead. Since I know there is power across the relay, I think the next step is to check power at the EEC plug side. If I have power there, then I think I've qualified the symptoms sufficiently to drop cash on a refurbished EEC.
 
Last edited:
I just performed the steps starting on page 25 of my fancy new Ford OBD I Code Reader (for EEC IV and MCU). My Ford's computer is EEC IV, and interestingly I got zero response from the EEC. It seems to either have no power or is dead. Since I know there is power across the relay, I then checked the power at the EEC plug side which read just over 12v. I think that qualified the symptoms sufficiently. So I proceeded just now to drop cash on a refurbished EEC from RockAuto. Will let you know how it goes!
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top