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1993 Splash in SC


Can you charge on the go with the one panel or is that even a thing?
 
Can you charge on the go with the one panel or is that even a thing?
Both panels are always connected to the solar controller. If both panels see sunshine, both charge. If one is in the dark, it just doesn't generate any voltage.

If the Automatic Cutoff relay on the engi e battery senses too much difference between the house batteries and engine battery, it will separate them to preserve the engine battery. But the solar controller is always connected to the system to charge whatever batteries are active. The solar controller has some smart programs for various charging styles and battery conditions.

Does that answer the question?
 
If there was ever a rig that deserves one of the 'built, not bought' bumper stickers.. it's definitely your truck.
 
If there was ever a rig that deserves one of the 'built, not bought' bumper stickers.. it's definitely your truck.
It's on there.
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Today, I made some supports for the rear end of the solar panels when they are deployed. They aren't heavy. But I didn't like the way so much panel hung unsupported past the cantilever arms. This is much better. I also got the LED strips wired up today.

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I worked on rebuilding my sun visors today. The originals needed to be recovered and also shortened to clear the auxiliary switch panel I installed. I stopped by a place that sells plastics to see what materials might be available. He was recommending plexiglass. But I didn't like that. It doesn't block sun very well unless you paint or cover it. ABS might work. Then he mentioned some metal-clad plastic that is commonly used in the sign industry. Some kind of plastic sandwiched between 2 sheets of aluminum, and it comes in colors. It was actually cheaper than plexiglass. So I got some in a nice green that matches my Curious Hound logo. Very easy to work with. He said you can score it and break it. I chose to cut it with my metal cutting mini circular saw. I've cut the pieces and stripped the old visors apart.

My plan is to assemble using solid aluminum domed head rivets. Still waiting on my rivet setter to arrive. So, no finished photos today. Also, the plastic end part where it snaps into the clip in the roof was brittle and hard to work with. So I remade that using some 1/4" steel rod and 16ga sheet metal.

This is the material. I had to buy 1/2 a sheet.
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An edge view of the aluminum/plastic sandwich.
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The parts laid out.
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This is how it will assemble.
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I like it. So all that hardware on top was in the factory visor?
 
I like it. So all that hardware on top was in the factory visor?
Yes. I just got rid of the cloth, foam padding and mdf stiffened. I'm even considering putting the mirror back on the new passenger side visor.
 
Finished the visors and decided to make some simple trim pieces for the A-pillars. I like it.

Interesting note; the hardware pieces for the visors are identical. There is no "left side" or right side designation. What that means is that on one side you see the "front" of the hardware and on the other side you see the "back".


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The A-pillar trim pieces mostly hide this wiring.
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Today's work was more for "peace of mind". I replaced shocks all around and brake hoses in the front. Just trying to make the truck as ready and reliable as I can. The front brake hoses have acted as suspension limiting straps a few times and I was nervous that they may be compromised.

Components ready to go.
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My driver side rear shock has had this dent for several years.
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Didn't know about this dent on a front shock until I took them off today.
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I feel better now.
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Dang it.

Driving the truck recently, I’ve noticed the battery/charging light flickering on and off. According to the display on my usb port, voltage is ok. I need to put a real multimeter on the system and see what’s going on. Yesterday, I opened the circuit breaker to isolate the truck battery from the house batteries and solar panels. The idiot light is still on.

Debating whether to replace the voltage regulator or the whole alternator. I don’t want to do either. But I especially don’t want to buy a regulator and then have to buy the whole alternator with another new regulator in it. This is the 130amp 3G alternator I got from the junk yard years ago. It looked like a brand new replacement when I took it out if that Explorer. If I get a new alternator, is there a bigger (150 or 175amp) alternator that will drop in with no mechanical mods needed?
 
I wouldn't worry about it, eventually the light will go out on its own.
 
Got home tonight and checked the voltage. It was about 13.8volts, which I thought was good. As I have been watching it lately on the USB voltage displays, I have seen voltage dipping a few tenths during times if heavy load, such as headlights&engine cooling fan &heater blower use. That has seemed OK. That is, however, how electricity works.

Anyway, I looked around the shop and found that I had an old alternator on the shelf - 95amp? 80amp? Whatever. It's one of the lower capacity ones. So I took the regulator off that and put it in the alternator in the truck. Started the engine - 14.4 volts, no wavering. Let it run a while. Still 14.4volts. Engine cooling fan came on - no voltage droop. Oh, yeah. No idiot light either. I turned on the headlights and my Viair compressor (25-30amps). Still good strong voltage 14.4 - 14.3 volts. I think that indicates my regulator was going bad.

So, here's the plan. I'm going to order a new heavy-duty regulator and install it. Then, the "test regulator" will go back in the smaller alternator. Then, evict the spiders and throw that (the alternator, not the spiders) in the toolbox for trailside repairs. Best of both worlds for very little $$ out of pocket immediately.
 
Just for fun...
Added an altimeter with roll indicator. Ive6been wanting an aircraft altimeter to install. But working used models are more expensive than I want to pay. This was more affordable. Is 15,000ft high enough?

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