1993 Splash in SC

[Blmpkn]

When I built the flatbed for my old truck, I had the actual bed bit sit upon 8" c-channel I ran perpendicular with the frame rails. Quick measurements put that figure as being enough rise to not have rubbing at full tilt..... I was wrong. 9" probably would of been the number needed. This was stock suspension with 30s.

 

[Curious Hound]

View attachment 70658

When I built the flatbed for my old truck, I had the actual bed bit sit upon 8" c-channel I ran perpendicular with the frame rails. Quick measurements put that figure as being enough rise to not have rubbing at full tilt..... I was wrong. 9" probably would of been the number needed. This was stock suspension with 30s.

What tires are you running?

 

[Blmpkn]

What tires are you running?

I had 30"x9.5"s on stock wheels

 

[Curious Hound]

You guys are making me think and rethink and I appreciate that.

My original thought about the height I need was based on where my existing wheel opening is. But I didn't account for the fact that my tires occasionally hit. Hence, the broken fiberglass bed sides. So, I definitely need more than planned. I'll do the experiment that Bobby recommended. That should help me figure out what's going on. Maybe I have more travel available than I thought. The tires may be hitting the fenders before I reach the bump stops.

 

[bobbywalter]

4 inches is a good compromise....and just lower the bumpstops and live with less articulation.

My deck ended up mid door line with a 3 in body lift on the cab.

But since your wheeling the wee out of it I just was throwing the max stroke out there.

 

[Blmpkn]

You guys are making me think and rethink and I appreciate that.

My original thought about the height I need was based on where my existing wheel opening is. But I didn't account for the fact that my tires occasionally hit. Hence, the broken fiberglass bed sides. So, I definitely need more than planned. I'll do the experiment that Bobby recommended. That should help me figure out what's going on. Maybe I have more travel available than I thought. The tires may be hitting the fenders before I reach the bump stops.

How I got my estimate on how high I needed the bottom of the deck to be was by measuring the distance from the axle to the bump stop while the truck was sitting level on the ground, then putting a level across the top of the tire so I could make a reference mark on the inner fender. I went up from that reference mark however many inches I had between the axle and the bump stop... made another mark.. and then measured up to that mark from the frame right above the axle.. and giving a little extra. Something like that anyways.

My rubbing, I'm sure, was due to myself not accounting for for fact that while flexed right out the outside edge of the tread is going to be higher than the tread would be if the axle was evenly compressed fully.

I would of been alright driving down the road freighted to the moon and resting on the bumpstops.. it was the articulation geometry that got me.

 

[sgtsandman]

I have a similar issue with my utility trailer in that regard. Straight up and down suspension flex, everything clears. Rotational flex, the tire hits the trailer sides and has gouged the tread some. I need to clearance the wood in order to fix that now.

 

[bobbywalter]

If you don't cycle the suspension under load you won't know actuals.


Depending on spring and shackle package . 7 inches at the frame is over 20 inches of wheel travel.

So down limit and up limit is required for hard use.

I have at least 16 in limited form. Just the size of the 42 on it's neautral 10 in wheel adds over 4 inches of up travel compared to a 37 on a 9 in wheel with same back space. Same situation. Same weight. It levers that much more force. Unlimited ..the 42s will destroy my leaf springs

 

[Curious Hound]

Maybe I'll replace the leaf springs with opposing electromagnets and a 4 link setup.

Meanwhile, I have winter weather coming Sunday and work Monday morning. Not good for driving my Fun50. Looks like the bumper goes back on the Ranger this weekend and some temporary tail lights so I can drive it to work Monday.

2 steps forward. One step back.

 

[Curious Hound]

Frame is coming along nicely. The forward crosspiece was a real bear. It needed to be 3.25" high and have a cutout at the fuel tank access cover. I let the heat get away from me boxing in the cutout and had to bend the whole thing straight again and stabilize it.

Mocked up a few more pieces so I can visualize, mark and cut for the wheel arch.

 

[Curious Hound]

Here are two scenarios for the wheel arch. I think I'll go with the 8" tall arch. (Visualize the frame along the yellow rulers)

8" high

6" high

 

[Curious Hound]

So, yesterday and today, I've made a lot of progress. Got the side rails welded up. Well, the tops, anyway. I'll flip it over later to do all the bottom welds. I've done some spot welds on the bottom just to stabilize it. I'm about to work on some of the shorter framing in the middle. But I'll have to stop soon. I'm going to add fasteners on another cross frame. So or will have 8 bolts total instead of 6.

 

[Curious Hound]

The rain changed from intermittent to constantly fricking annoying. So I quit for the day.

Last progress photo.

 

[Blmpkn]

Starting to really come together, looks good!

 

[Curious Hound]

I may have some important info to share. I wanted new bed hardware to mount this bed. Prices vary wildly online. Anywhere from $26 to $56 or more. The cheap stuff has mixed reviews, some saying the hex socket heads strip out easy. I didn't want to chance that. I don't mind regular hex head bolts. The nuts are the difficult part. Unless you have a helper, you really need those U-nuts so they stay in place and can't rotate while you tighten the bolt from above.

So I went to a local hardware distributor today that specializes in automotive stuff. He couldn't find M12x1.75 U-nuts in the catalog. So I came home and did some digging. I found J-nuts. They are like U-nuts, except the clip part that wraps around the edge of the frame is short. That shouldn't matter. As long as there is something to catch the frame and keep the nut in place.

Auveco part #23784, around $10-$11 for a box of 10 pieces. I'm going to call my local guy tomorrow and see if he has those or can get them. That way I don't have to pay an extra $10 for shipping. Regular hex head bolts (grade 8.8) are around $2 - $2.50 each for the sizes needed. So a complete set of bed hardware will only be around $25 plus tax locally supplied.

Part of the reason this is important to me is that I am adding an extra set of bolts for the new bed. It will have 8 bolts instead of 6. And ordering a set from Rockauto or LMC Truck only gets me a set of 6. Then I would need extra parts.