• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

1993 Splash in SC


Murdock would be so proud!
Going to assume A-Team reference? That episode always sticks with me for whatever reason...

That's a spiffy bumper, I need to do some bumper work on my junk, the Ranger's front bumper needs more features, rear bumper needs better brackets, F350 front bumper is a Warn winch bumper but for a Chevy and held on by 3 bolts and the rear bumper is again GM with hobbled brackets and a repop so very cheezy...
 
Going to assume A-Team reference? That episode always sticks with me for whatever reason...

That's a spiffy bumper, I need to do some bumper work on my junk, the Ranger's front bumper needs more features, rear bumper needs better brackets, F350 front bumper is a Warn winch bumper but for a Chevy and held on by 3 bolts and the rear bumper is again GM with hobbled brackets and a repop so very cheezy...

You got it!
 
I bought this truck a few weeks ago - 1993 Ranger "Splash" 4X4, 3.0l, M50D, 1354 transfer case, 7.5" rear Dana 35 front, 3.73 gears. All stock except for the stereo. I live on 12 acres in the country. The truck will be used around the property, around town, and hopefully for trail riding and moderate rock crawling.

So far, I have found the following;
rear brakes grabbing, rusted, leaking - already fixed
leak at top of fuel tank - parts on order (fill tube, new fuel pump, strainer
and gasket
headliner is bad - being replaced today
dash is cracked and many parts are broken due to stereo installation
butcher years ago. - bought used dash parts this past weekend
heater control cable detached (plastic pin broken)
accelerator cable stretched - did the zip-tie mod as temporary fix

My Plans;
8.8" rear
4.56 gears
Lock-Rite - both ends
6" lift
33" tires on 15x8 steel wheels
Make a doubler? (got a 1350 for $75 yesterday - long-term project)
Might sacrifice A/C compressor to convert to air compressor
Engine mods? probably not until it dies

That's most of my plans at the moment. I have to repair and sell an '04 Yukon to finance most of this. I have been reading this forum and checking out the tech articles. In fact, a few of you have already helped me in the thread I started in General Discussions. Here are a couple pictures to get this thread started off right.


That's my stunt driver behind the wheel.
I've always liked that truck. It looks well taken care of or totally restored.
 
Got the final paint on the bumper.
20240206_163222.jpg


20240206_163243.jpg


20240206_163334.jpg
 
Can't wait to see it on the truck
 
Installed the bumper today. Also sprayed some paint ot the grill, the area behind the grill and a couple shackles. While I was welding on the bumper, I added a bracket to tie the winch cables onto. Now they are out of the way for me to use the winch cover.

Back off! I have Rustoleum and I almost know how to use it.
20240209_104633.jpg


20240209_142131.jpg


20240209_151404.jpg


20240209_151448.jpg
 
Started giving it some TLC today. It has been needing an alignment. So, I worked on that. First, I knew that the camber adjustment bushings had slid up for some reason. Fortunately, there is a snap ring on the top of the ball joint stud. So that's as far as they moved. Removed the bushings, cleaned, reinstalled and guessed at an adjustment based on where they were before I pulled them and how much the tires appeared to be leaning. All measured with my "eyecrometer". During this process, I found that the driver side upper ball joint needs to be replaced. It will be ok for my trip to outer banks this month. But after that, it really needs to be done. Put the wheels back on and set the toe as best I can with a slightly floppy ball joint. Still need to center the steering wheel. I'll do that next week, probably. Had to stop in time to give the motorcycle some attention.

While I had the camber bushings out, I modified the one for the driver side. It never did want to tighten down good on the ball joint stud. I have been driving around for several years with a piece os stainless steel shim wedged in the socket so it would clamp tight. So, I disassembled it. It's the adjust able kind. Then put each piece in the vice and clamped it shut. Then ran a hacksaw down through the slot to widen it. Worked like a charm.

Also worked on the front passenger tire. That's the one I popped off the bead last time I went to the ORV Park. It has been leaking ever since. Popped the outer side off the bead. Cleaned the dirt off the rim and the bead of the tire. Lubed it up and put air back in. Seems to be good.

Hmm. Wonder where the leak is.
20240229_123209.jpg


Lots dirt and sand in the wrong place. This is looking between the bead and rim where all the bubbles were.
20240229_123557.jpg
 
TLC day! Replaced O2 sensors, spark plugs, plug wires, rotor and cap. The old stuff doesn't really have a lot of miles on it. But hasn't been done since way back when I first bought the truck 8 Years ago. Also found a wet spot indicating where my coolant leak is - somewhere on the top, passenger side of water pump area under the t-stat housing. I haven't seen it leak. But coolant is going somewhere and there's a wet spot there.

Old plugs. Look decent? I'm open to feedback from those who know better than me. I'm happy to see that they are almost identical looking and not covered in oil or black soot. The gaps have burned open to 0.052" - 0.054". Very consistent. Should be closer to 0.044".
20240305_122124.jpg


20240305_122422.jpg


20240305_122438.jpg


These (plug wires, cap and rotor) go in the toolbox for trailside emergencies. Maybe I should gap the old plugs and put them in the bag, also.
20240305_133401.jpg


Can't beat how handy a good bumper is.
20240305_114239.jpg
 
Also found a wet spot indicating where my coolant leak is -

Yep; aren't you getting on up to the age for that, too? ;missingteeth;


On another serious note, cleaning the "gently used" plugs and packing them with the backup wires would be a good idea. There's been several times having serviceable used spare parts has saved me a call to a friend or a needing a tow.
 
Drove it 8 1/2 hrs to the Outer Banks of NC today. That's a long day for a 6' 2" guy in a single cab Ranger. The truck did well. Curious to see what we do tomorrow. If the ferries don't run due to the wind, we'll probably drive the long way around to Nags Head and do some exploring and find a different campground for tomorrow night.
 
Huh?!?

Have you ever had ball joints that slide right into the knuckle without requiring a press? I'm wondering. Should I ;
A. Use them "as-is"
B. Use a punch to raise dimples in the bore so there is some tightness and then apply green Loctite
C. Install and then tack weld to prevent movement.

These are Dana Spicer OEM style ball joints that I ordered from Bronco Graveyard. With the knuckle upside down, they fall out. I have time. I will be waiting a few days for spindles bearings and seals.

20240531_125147.jpg
 
Did you have to press the old ones out?

If they just easily came out with a tap or two... I would think the knuckle was worn worn out.
 
Aftermarket ones can be oversize which makes the hole bigger if you ever try to go back with OE.

One of those times they try to solve a problem that doesn't exist by creating a problem...
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top