2.3L ('83-'97) 1993 Mustang 2.3 into a 90 Ranger (2.3)

[Maui-sprint]

Do you recommend removing motor and trans separately or together?

 

[Dirtman]

Separate. It's way more work trying to wrestle them in and out together.

 

[sgtsandman]

Do you recommend removing motor and trans separately or together?

Depends on how high you can get the truck up off the ground. Dropping the transmission and pulling the engine is the easiest in my mind but you need to get the truck up high enough for the transmission to clear the underside of the truck. AND, you will need a transmission jack to drop it.

If you can't get it high enough, then, pulling them as a unit is the only option.

 

[Dirtman]

Last 2.3 ranger I did I just slid the transmission back an inch and left the rear of the trans on the the cross member (unbolted obviously) then let the front sit on a jack stand and then yanked the engine out. The 2.3 doesn't give you a ton of wiggle room front to back since it's longer than the V6 engines.

 

[scotts90ranger]

In '89 and '90 I think the 2.0L was still offered in Canada, but that's not common... Being carbed it was always 4 plug.

From the pic of the engine bay in the Ranger, it's obviously dual plug because that is a coil pack on the passenger side, the other one is down by the drivers side motor mount or something just out of view, that's an early '90 like mine, before they had MAF sensors on the filter box later in the year...

They moved the coils all over the place on these things, some had both on one side, some the other, some split...

 

[scotts90ranger]

I would just pull the engine alone, it's not too bad... 18mm wrench for the motor mount studs, 13mm for all the bellhousing bolts, if you pull the fuel rail off the engine you don't have to disconnect the hoses. Shouldn't be too bad.

Just put a ratchet strap over the top of the frame rails at the front of the transmission, hook it to the bottom and that'll hold up the trans and not be in your way as much...

 

[Dirtman]

Don't forget to put your tools away!

 

[Maui-sprint]

All great points. No need to pull trans. Will just slide it back a bit and secure. I also think keeping as much as I can from original Ranger (ie: sensors, intake, etc.) and jus swap out the mechanicals. Last owner said truck ran like a top before it quit rather quickly. It appears that it had a catastrophic failure internally because it dumped a ton of oil when we unloaded it off the flat bed. Towing guy was bummed. It was dark when we parked it and I had no time to give it a good look. I purchased it knowing the motor was crap. Can't wait to sink my wrenches in it this weekend. I have about 36 hours to pick up motor and swap em out before I gotta fly back home.

 

[Maui-sprint]

I appreciate the pointers as I never owned this motor/tranny combo.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I don't think you need to move the trans back, just leave it be and pull the radiator and fan, that's all I've ever done and I've pulled my turbo 2.3L a few times

If you have a 13mm or 1/2" ratcheting swivel wrench that makes pulling the bellhousing bolts much easier, they can all be reached from underneath with that wrench after the starter is removed. There's two stupid brackets, one on each side of the engine at the bottom of the block on the outer bellhousing bolts, they really get in the way, chuck those stupid brackets, it'll save some cussing...

Keep whatever looks the same, that's a fair amount of work to jam into a short time

 

[scotts90ranger]

Oh, If the plan was just to scrap the engine you pull, I could drive to Eugene at some point... I'd be up for spare parts...

 

[Maui-sprint]

Scott,
Your welcome to the old motor if you want it. We can coordinate after I do the job. I extended my stay to 3 days so I should have enough time to do the work. Will keep you posted.

 

[Maui-sprint]

So you're saying dont even touch tranny when removing motor... Any tips/tricks with in aligning motor with trans during install?

 

[Dirtman]

Make sure torque converter is seated properly first.

Make sure torque converter is seated properly first.

After that it's fairly easy to wiggle the bell housing around until it slides into the dowel pins on the engine block.

Make sure torque converter is seated properly first.

Make sure torque converter is seated properly first.

If it doesn't slide on flush do not force it, stop and...

Make sure torque converter is seated properly first.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I'm with Dirtman if it was an auto, but pics show a floor shifter. Not getting the converter in all the way is an expensive lesson...

The shifter and trans mount will keep the trans fairly upright, but put a 1" ratchet strap under the front part of the trans then over the top of the frame rails, hook to the bottom of the frame rails then tighten some, you can control the trans height with this to keep it reasonable.