1990 ford ranger 300 swap in progress


wj knuckle swap.
No thanks.
wj knuckle swap.
maybe down the road I’m not gonna worry about that right now when everything on this axles still new. I know it’s an “upgrade” but it also means opening yet another can of worms. Not to mention once again it just moves the steering much closer to the oil pan.
 
No thanks.

maybe down the road I’m not gonna worry about that right now when everything on this axles still new. I know it’s an “upgrade” but it also means opening yet another can of worms. Not to mention once again it just moves the steering much closer to the oil pan.


it wont matter based on the pic. not enough up travel to be an issue.
 
go 2 inches forward on shackles and it will go lower flattening the springs. cycle it there and see what it wants.

that is where over the rail works nice.

i run the big ford over rail box, or the gm 2wd. adds enough length to lower transition arc.
 
go 2 inches forward on shackles and it will go lower flattening the springs. cycle it there and see what it wants.

that is where over the rail works nice.

i run the big ford over rail box, or the gm 2wd. adds enough length to lower transition arc.
I’ve tried going more forward with the shackles it doesn’t work and gets stiff. As I said a few post ago these leafs aren’t going to work out it’s stock yj springs with a 4” lift main from a cj5 as it turns out added in and clamped it’s not just an “ add a leaf” so while the height currently isn’t terrible it’s not ideal as far as actually working as it should. I’d considered over the rail steering but with as low as this setup should realistically be I don’t see the point to reinvent the wheel right now. I’ve got a few different leaf options to check out but this setups getting cut back out.
 

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i had adjustable bracket jigs for yj/cj at one point that i dont know where it ran off too...

if i had them i would mail them over. really makes it easy to play with the springs.

my mounts are a set of them that were modified past purpose--- repurposed to my rig as permanant fixtures in the back due to time constraints. that at the time in 2006 was a temporary solution till i had time to do it "right" with coils..... 20 years later and its still on leafs.... with neg/flat shackle angle too. "who knew it would work so well?" i sure as hell did not...but it is what it is.

the 15-30 degree rule seems to not be a strict rule with rangers. for some reason they get away with what would buck you out of a cj. i have my set up in ocillation which gave it more stability. graham talked me into it and the guy from cooters off road that made my hi-steer arm. pretty my looks like how you are currently sitting. i would never have done that on my own so i am glad i tried it.

generally i do the main leaf minus prime leaf to determine shackle length and angle ideals.

that almost always changes once actual ride and drive come into it. i travel long distances so stability is the primary goal. trail trash that is trailered, it is not as sensitive a thing. street driven yj/cj it is critical.



one thing i have been wanting to try is sliders up front. i suspect you could get to your height goals that way. i have helped do it on an xj and a blazer and a ram and it really changes the ride...like need sway bar changes. we had it on drag cars and it really caused some issues until we dialed it in with wheel hop...but once set it was good.


of course just popping a coil tj or xj in there will really make it easy. but where is the fun in that?
 
i had adjustable bracket jigs for yj/cj at one point that i dont know where it ran off too...

if i had them i would mail them over. really makes it easy to play with the springs.

my mounts are a set of them that were modified past purpose--- repurposed to my rig as permanant fixtures in the back due to time constraints. that at the time in 2006 was a temporary solution till i had time to do it "right" with coils..... 20 years later and its still on leafs.... with neg/flat shackle angle too. "who knew it would work so well?" i sure as hell did not...but it is what it is.

the 15-30 degree rule seems to not be a strict rule with rangers. for some reason they get away with what would buck you out of a cj. i have my set up in ocillation which gave it more stability. graham talked me into it and the guy from cooters off road that made my hi-steer arm. pretty my looks like how you are currently sitting. i would never have done that on my own so i am glad i tried it.

generally i do the main leaf minus prime leaf to determine shackle length and angle ideals.

that almost always changes once actual ride and drive come into it. i travel long distances so stability is the primary goal. trail trash that is trailered, it is not as sensitive a thing. street driven yj/cj it is critical.



one thing i have been wanting to try is sliders up front. i suspect you could get to your height goals that way. i have helped do it on an xj and a blazer and a ram and it really changes the ride...like need sway bar changes. we had it on drag cars and it really caused some issues until we dialed it in with wheel hop...but once set it was good.


of course just popping a coil tj or xj in there will really make it easy. but where is the fun in that?
Well put man and I had originally planned to run sliders but the worthwhile setups are a pretty penny and unfortunately still bend and bind easy if you catch one on a rock or obstacle vs just sliding off a shackle or hangers. Granted all setups have their pros and cons. I know coils would ultimately make life easier but to setup coils again is so far out of the realm of possibilities I’d spend thousands lmao. My buckets were SPANKED. But I’m still having fun sorting this situation out just a matter of starting with better used parts 🤣 I had no idea it had a cj5 lift leaf clamped it.. I just knew it had an add a leaf and thought it’s probably just a cheap eBay 2” kit 😅 but it is what it is. I’m gonna swing by my buddies place and see what leafs he’s got stock piled and is willing to let go of. I’m not gonna worry too much on steering and such I’m more so using it to keep tires locked and allow steering when I need it. Like I said she’s years away from road use 😅😅😅 but in the mean time learned a lot with this setup and now I’d like to make it better.
 
the rate you have worked so far...once you figure a combo you are good or comfortable with out....i would say you are hours from road worthy.











1990 ford ranger 300 swap in progress





that is my rig with Ricks rig tastefully customized grey poupon ranger.....but it is bone stock in powertrain so a great visual comparative....




1990 ford ranger 300 swap in progress







this truck fits in a standard 7 foot garage door. purposely so. any forum you go to will tell you that is impossible to fit a headache racked pickup with 42s in a 7 foot hole....or at least back when i did it it was the conventional wisdom.

most of the time i am on 33 sometimes 235/85/16 for towing.....because hummvee engines not turbocharged dont like towing fast or alot....

35 radials up to 37 in hummvee tires for general just cruising around work

and mud tires when i am out wheeling....those range 38-44.


that said on 35's a stock modern ranger has the same bed height.
 
the rate you have worked so far...once you figure a combo you are good or comfortable with out....i would say you are hours from road worthy.











1990 ford ranger 300 swap in progress





that is my rig with Ricks rig tastefully customized grey poupon ranger.....but it is bone stock in powertrain so a great visual comparative....




1990 ford ranger 300 swap in progress







this truck fits in a standard 7 foot garage door. purposely so. any forum you go to will tell you that is impossible to fit a headache racked pickup with 42s in a 7 foot hole....or at least back when i did it it was the conventional wisdom.

most of the time i am on 33 sometimes 235/85/16 for towing.....because hummvee engines not turbocharged dont like towing fast or alot....

35 radials up to 37 in hummvee tires for general just cruising around work

and mud tires when i am out wheeling....those range 38-44.


that said on 35's a stock modern ranger has the same bed height.
Not at all this truck is a shell man lol it needs full rewire, a lot of interior sheet metal replaced and a lot more never mind rebuilding axles suspension driveline and more 😅 and a full fuel system and harness hahaha but unfortunately no the rate hasn’t worked the main yj springs bending I can see it under compression that cj5 lift main is applying all pressure 3-4” before the eye and the more you cycle it the worse it’s getting. But I’ll finance better solution.

As my kids would say look dad it’s monster truck 🤣🤣🤣 but I have seen pics of that around before. Didn’t know it was yours it’s a unique setup by far. Puts in work!
 
So...they refused to help load the 30 blocks, 5 3/4 tongue and groove and the 1/2 in roof decking and some bags of mortar two days ago... because it's too much for a ranger....

:unsure: I just figured it was hot and the kid didn't want to help....they sent him to help and when he reported back they said ok don't do it ...that is crazy.



1990 ford ranger 300 swap in progress
1990 ford ranger 300 swap in progress







This is my daily when I am home....
 
So...they refused to help load the 30 blocks, 5 3/4 tongue and groove and the 1/2 in roof decking and some bags of mortar two days ago... because it's too much for a ranger....

:unsure: I just figured it was hot and the kid didn't want to help....they sent him to help and when he reported back they said ok don't do it ...that is crazy.



View attachment 148246View attachment 148247






This is my daily when I am home....
that’s hilarious 🤣🤣🤣🤣
 
2300 pounds is nothing for it ..





1990 ford ranger 300 swap in progress




Engine...meh...trans t case....cake...


....I can see the wiring be a few days of headaches though ...
 
2300 pounds is nothing for it ..





View attachment 148248



Engine...meh...trans t case....cake...


....I can see the wiring be a few days of headaches though ...
Yeah just having time and money lol lately I got lots of time but 0 money so it gets interesting 🤣 next spring I’ll pull the motor back out finish bracing the frame with rails from the parts truck and cut out lthe firewall and cowl and weld in the new one to finally have no cracks or leaks there. Gotta cut off the front clip and replace the radiator support with the new one I have. Need to replace all the body mounts. Finish driveline for that I need transfercase with Speedo gear again. Rear axle needs rebuilt and front axle needs gears. Gotta replace rear leafs and hangers the list goes on. Still need to build floor pans and tunnel. Finish out the interior. And move on to body work and replacing inner door jamb, doors, fix the hood yeah you get the point 🤣
 
Yeah just having time and money lol lately I got lots of time but 0 money so it gets interesting 🤣 next spring I’ll pull the motor back out finish bracing the frame with rails from the parts truck and cut out lthe firewall and cowl and weld in the new one to finally have no cracks or leaks there. Gotta cut off the front clip and replace the radiator support with the new one I have. Need to replace all the body mounts. Finish driveline for that I need transfercase with Speedo gear again. Rear axle needs rebuilt and front axle needs gears. Gotta replace rear leafs and hangers the list goes on. Still need to build floor pans and tunnel. Finish out the interior. And move on to body work and replacing inner door jamb, doors, fix the hood yeah you get the point 🤣
Oh and all new brake lines and booster front to rear 😅
 

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