1989 Ranger 351W NP435 205 swap

[FloridaRanger89]

Hello, I am in the process of doing a V8 conversion in my 4X4 89 Ranger. I had a 302 roller cam engine I was going to use but then was given a 351W with new cam,intake,pistons,and trick flow spring upgrade to build instead. I located another 351W with NP435 transmission and a 205 transfercase locally to use. With that being said I have read page after page on this forum and understand that I need an oil filter relocation kit, mustang convertible engine mounts, 5L radiator fuel pressure regulator with a return as I plan to retain my intank fuel pump since its new. Dual sump oil pan holley carb until I can afford the truck avenger. I have a 3 inch body lift and removing all A/c components so should be good with clearance. Is there any exhaust garunteed to work on my set up? Also does anybody know how I would retain my crusie control? What are the benefits of staying hydraulic with the clutch or the benefits of running a cable and how is that done? Any help directly involved in my conversion would be fantastic as this is my first swap on my own. I hope that covers everything thanks in advance.

 

[bobbywalter]

Hello, I am in the process of doing a V8 conversion in my 4X4 89 Ranger. I had a 302 roller cam engine I was going to use but then was given a 351W with new cam,intake,pistons,and trick flow spring upgrade to build instead. I located another 351W with NP435 transmission and a 205 transfercase locally to use. With that being said I have read page after page on this forum and understand that I need an oil filter relocation kit, mustang convertible engine mounts, 5L radiator fuel pressure regulator with a return as I plan to retain my intank fuel pump since its new. Dual sump oil pan holley carb until I can afford the truck avenger. I have a 3 inch body lift and removing all A/c components so should be good with clearance. Is there any exhaust garunteed to work on my set up? Also does anybody know how I would retain my crusie control? What are the benefits of staying hydraulic with the clutch or the benefits of running a cable and how is that done? Any help directly involved in my conversion would be fantastic as this is my first swap on my own. I hope that covers everything thanks in advance.

keeping the ttb?


i would force the fox swap 351 r type headers to work or use log style sn95 stang or t bird headers.

the 351 units requires frame mods and is a pia but not too big of a pia.

the log headers are easy to modify for a better fit...

do the aerostar type shaft upgrade for the steering to get rid of the rag joint..

use the vss in the 205 and mod your cruise cable to work on whatever you end up with for a carb or throttle body.

adapt the the hydraulic 435 style system you your truck...master-line-slave. one system adapted to work with your clutch pedel.


your truck should have a single high pressure pump. shit can that and put the older 87 style in tank pump in its place. its low pressure and just right for most carb engines to 270-300 hp...get a bad ass aero pump if your over 350 hp. it is ignorant to push high pressure fuel to a carb setup....closer to patently retarded...but i will be nice about it. unless your splicing the regulator right to the top of the pump in the tank... either way i advise against it these days after seeing some bad shit happen the last 20 years.



with the 351 you may want to consider custom mounts...up to you. they really make for some freedom of location.

i suggest ruff stuff, those guys are awesome for doing custom stuff...especially when you put your military or one ton axles under thiis beast...

these make for a cake swap...

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R1943.html

 

[FloridaRanger89]

Yes I am retaining the TTB I upgraded to the 8.8 and D35 with 6'' skyjacker with extended radius arms so will avoid SAS for the near future. Are the fox swap or log headers long tube or short tube forgive me for my ignorance I'm new but willing to learn also what forcing or fabricating would be required with these? This is the first I have heard of the "aerostar type shaft upgrade" I would love to hear more on this subject if possible as my rag joint is worn out and I feel this will help greatly in exhaust clearance. With the cruise control I imagine I need the vacuum lines as well as the cable on the carb but what electrical is involved? With the hydraulic clutch system I have a new master cylinder, slave cylinder, and line that can all be retained and coupled to the transmission by adapters correct or do I need a different slave/master ect? I would be more open to a new fuel pump but recently dumped in a lot of money rebuilding the stock drivetrain but was still not satisfied that is why I am trying to reuse as many parts as possible I will keep the 87 fuel pump in my mind. Thanks for the link on the motor mounts I will look further into those. Sorry If I asked too many questions I am just trying to be as informed as possible prior to buying more parts.

 

[bobbywalter]

well i am not around much but there are many here, just be patient.


the headers i refer to are shorty style. the stock or upgrade sn95 stuff cut and modded at the flange or the 351 swap style like shown here...

in 95 when i first converted my main truck i used the swap headers on the market that were long/mid length designs that actually required frame trimming...i did this for performance reasons with a efi cobra engine and they were flat flange gasket style....i hate those leaking pos...not for a abused 4x4 application, it was a bad move but there wasnt much else out there and information in the 80's and 90's was not quite so easy to come by like it is today..and we usually used k or maverick type manifolds or van manifolds on one side and the car type on the other from 88-93 or so as a standard..or at least the group i ran with...

so i had to hack the hell out of my frame initially...you wont have to do it so bad...you can actually just roll it a little ways to use them and clearance the drivers side a bit. no hackage so the frame wont be weakened. of course mine is beefed up and wrapped with 10 or 14 gauge after i busted it jumping it like a rabid kangaroo.

and the aerostar linkage, this has been a staple since the mid 90's...

there is an early and later style...but you can forage jeeps and and vehicle you want with the joints and shafts you like and adapt them to your liking.

the cruise you just leave as is and make sure the vss circuit stays intact along with the body wiring..of course the brake pedel/power unit needs the vacuum line source for apply and dump if you have the vac style dump, and iirc you do. i went to gm style cruise...but i also have a 4l80 trans and diesel in my ranger...so i dont remember exactly what i had with the small block ford...i do remember some changes from 88-89 but i dont think it is an issue with your situation..there are several styles of cruise across the ranger generations. but if you keep it all you should be good.


that is why i suggest the system approach to the clutch situation. if the fullsize trans is set up hydro it is usually best to keep it the same...the master and slaves likely have different volumes and its is possible they wont get along too well. you can adapt the ends, i dont remember if the mater side is the same on those...possible just push the roll pin and pop the line on. i would have to see the actual parts in play to make the call.


the fuel pump...up to you. it is done regularly. a good pressure regulator close to the tank or in the tank would be my preference. but a GOOD pressure regulator will cost more then a stock low pressure pump.

 

[farmer]

I used mustang mounts and Hedman 302 swap headers without any frame modification, but I think my motor sits higher than bobbys. header had to be heated and dented in to clear the steering though

BTW bobby this is the first I've seen of the Aerostar steering swap myself, any advice on a year to look for? My header rubs the rag joint like a bitch. Also this is the first I've heard of swapping fuel pump/sending units, wish I had known about that one instead of $70 on a bypass regulator.

oh and find a mid 80s hydraulic clutch bellhousing for the transmission. I used that and the matching slave with my ranger hose and master without an issue