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1988 Ranger - Need help identifying drivetrain part


When changing joint, yes keep alignment together. Probably the easiest thing to do is draw a line across the joints before breaking them down.
As for installing, unless the slip in the transmission isn't symmetrical for some reason just put it together. Even if it isn't then it'll only fit one way.
Ok, good to know, thanks.
 
Hey, so just wanted to update anyone who might care. I wound up going to a driveshaft specialty shop not too far from me, I brought in the yoke the the guy there helped my find a flex disc that actually fit. Not exactly the same size as the old one and the bolts were a slightly different size but it was close enough to get me back on the road and so far it drives great. So no new driveshaft necessary, and thank goodness for that cause those rear diff bolts were stuck on there lol.
Thanks to everyone who responded and I'll try to post a picture/part number of the part just in case anyone else runs into this issue, they won't have to go on a crazy goosechase like I did.
 
Hey, so just wanted to update anyone who might care. I wound up going to a driveshaft specialty shop not too far from me, I brought in the yoke the the guy there helped my find a flex disc that actually fit. Not exactly the same size as the old one and the bolts were a slightly different size but it was close enough to get me back on the road and so far it drives great. So no new driveshaft necessary, and thank goodness for that cause those rear diff bolts were stuck on there lol.
Thanks to everyone who responded and I'll try to post a picture/part number of the part just in case anyone else runs into this issue, they won't have to go on a crazy goosechase like I did.
Bro! Please, can you relay the part number? I noticed on my ranger the coupler is cracked on mine and I'd like to replace it before it fails and I'm in the same boat as you previously were lol.
 
Thanks to everyone who responded and I'll try to post a picture/part number of the part just in case anyone else runs into this issue, they won't have to go on a crazy goosechase like I did.
It would be a blessing if you could post the part number! I have been trying to find one for my 1989 Ranger, had a post about it but now I can't find that anymore.
 
Hey, sorry for the later reply, I was busy getting back to life after not having a car for a week and a half. I'll try to get under the truck and take some pictures/get the part number sometime tomorrow.

One REALLY important caveat that I completely forgot to mention in my last post is the the driveshaft shop actually lathed down a little bit of the trans yoke, the part that slides into the flex disc because the ID of the disc was a tad too small to fit all the way onto the yoke, something to be aware of. I wish I had a pic to actually show what I mean but I don't, I'll try to get one tomorrow as well.
 
did anybody try seeing if this part number is compatible?
FR3Z4782A

I ask because if you go to fordparts.com and ask for all driveshaft flex couplers for the 2.3L that is the sole result I found (application 2015-17 2.3L mustang).... but Ford has this habit of really re-using the same parts in nearly identical setups... 2.3L is a common theme here, no? (all of these have been 4 banger extend cabs, right?)

edit: I am too lazy to cross reference so if that is identical to the first napa part, I didn't check...

edit edit: I am an idiot I bet... that '15-17 is not a lima block I bet, that is the ecoboost....so they have about as much in common as apples and oranges... might still check the dimensions just for the hell of it.
 
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Here are two images I found online when I looked up the part number, I'm assuming it's a Jurid 1234110015 GN126S, but I'm not sure how these mercedes part #'s are supposed to be read.

A few notes, the bolt size that fits in these is 10mm, the stock ones I had were 12 so I had to get new bolts n nuts, not a big deal. It's a bit thinner than what I assume is stock so I got some washers to kinda pad out the space, again pretty easy workaround. Aside from that and machining of the yoke, the bolt pattern is right and so far its been working just fine. Just be aware that it probably won't be a simple plug n play kinda thing, it'll take a little bit of finessing or some redneck engineering but nothing too crazy.

I hope this helps whoever is looking for this unicorn of a part.
 

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Ok so I went to a junkyard where they got an 89 a couple of days ago. The coupler on it said "made in west Germany". Here's some pictures.
 

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This is mine. Some numbers look similar.
 

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Do you guys know if it's difficult to remove the coupler/guibo?
 
A few notes, the bolt size that fits in these is 10mm, the stock ones I had were 12 so I had to get new bolts n nuts, not a big deal. It's a bit thinner than what I assume is stock so I got some washers to kinda pad out the space, again pretty easy workaround.
I wonder, would it be possible to drill out the bolt holes to 12mm? That would be a difference of .079" so it would thin the wall of the hole reinforcing by .0395", not a huge difference....
 
Do you guys know if it's difficult to remove the coupler/guibo?
Remove the bolts, slide the tranny output shaft forward and it should drop right out. Maybe Opijmee will chime in on this since he did it. Mine was taken out by the shop which was doing other work and noticed that my giubo (love that word, something new I learned on here!) was not in good shape so I can't be positive.
 

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based on those pictures ("made in west germany") I googled around and the biggest mfg in germany is SGF... then I noticed that you had a partial part number "...GF 20S" I bet that is "SGF 20S"


I didn't spend a ton of time hunting for a part listing (mfg has only cutsie splash screen stuff and contact page, not really consumer direct/friendly), but I bet with the mfg and part number someone should be able to find an interchange.

fwiw, the first 2 pages of results from my searches all pointed to bmw forums like bimmerfest.com
 

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