1986 Ford Ranger 2.0 Idle/Stalling Problem Help!

[ianthegreat]

Yeeeea. I'm leaning more and more towards a head gasket or cracked/warped head. I know for a fact my intake manifold(sp?) is cracked around the area where you install the EGR. I noticed this when installing the EGR valve. It looks like the crack runs right around where you screw in the EGR valve, maybe I over-tightened last time when I cleaned out the old valve. Doesn't look like it runs anywhere other than around the screw though. I'll try and get some pictures up. Is a head gasket replacement totally out of my know-how? With the head off I might as well have it tested also, correct?

As much of a money dump as this has been, I've enjoyed the learning process.

 

[dangerranger83]

If your intake has a crack in it then thats a vacuum leak, which is what the idle problem could be.

As for the head gasket/ head problem that might be there its not to difficult, it just takes time, tools, and some knowledge. I dont what is out of your know-how but what I can say is that you only learn if you do it and do it right. But before doing anything, get the temp. guage in, then radiator and see if it is over heating.

As for the crack on the intake, i'd spray carb. cleaner around it to see if it is a problem. A vacuum leak will make you truck run rough to the point of it wants to die.

Do the compression test it will tell you if you have a blown head gasket/cracked head.

Check everything before ripping the head of the truck (and yours), and yes, get it tested for cracks and warpage if it comes to that point.

My recent motor swap was what you could say was out of my know-how. I've never change a motor, let alone put a TBI on a motor that was never made with one. But like I said it just takes time, tools, and some knowledge (library helped).

As for this thread, I love reding it and helping you out. I never though it would go this far and you are right it has been a learning experiance not for just you but for me too.

 

[mongo]

agreed i just spent a full hour reading all of this to see if i came ud with anyting else great team work guys hell i appreacate it for him and yes awsome trouble shooting lesson
but the only thing i got now would be is a really really lean carb that would make it really hot but i really dont know to much and idk about head swap on that but i did one on my 302 and it took me 2 full day with alot of really good friends 3 cases of beer and a good book on the engine

 

[Mark_88]

Hmmmm...one of the surest ways to tell if your head is cracked is oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil...you will see the coolant floating in the oil if you open the oil plug and drain it...or you can see oil in the coolant when you open the rad cap...cooled, of course...

If your compression is above 120 PSI on all four cylinders then you probably don't have a problem...and they can be within 15% of each other and still work fine...it's best if they're closer together though because there is a better balance of the power on all four cylinders...

As an example, my 2.0 had compression readings around 125, 130, 128, and 115 on number one...turned out I had a crack in the number one piston....but the engine ran fine with the exception of blow-by...that eventually killed the engine when I ran out of oil completely one night...so compression readings can indicate a problem...

Other than that...it takes roughly four hours to swap a head the first time...I've done mine about four times and can now do it in just over an hour...but don't rush, work methodically...have everything ready...and it will be a learning experience that will turn out well...

 

[ianthegreat]

I'm going to break this down and at least remove the intake manifold to check for cracks. I'll replace the gaskets at the same time. Originally, I thought my intake manifold was cracked, but it is actually the part below the carb and above the intake that connects to the EGR valve. See the pics below.

What the water looked like in the radiator after about a week. Just rust? I couldn't see any oil floating around or smell it.

Broken EGR coupling thing..

Got the new radiator in, removed the old one

Breaking it down, about to remove the intake manifold, making it easier to install the temp gauge under it

If you look under the truck it looks like I have a pretty good sized oil leak, but I rarely see spots on the ground where oil drips. Aren't there supposed to be screws bolting this together. Is this where my rear main seal is?

 

[dangerranger83]

That plate is used as a spacer and to keep crud out. Ya there are suppose to be screws on there, still need to do that to mine. As for the oil, if it isnt dripping that much I'd mess with it later when the truck is driving.

The coolant, ya thats rust. that isn't helping you out in any way shape or form. Make sure its all gone before putting your new radiator in or you'll be after a new one.

Just make sure you get everthing put back where it was, not pressuring you on it, just take your time.

Hope to see it running soon............and for more then 6 minutes.

 

[ianthegreat]

That plate is used as a spacer and to keep crud out. Ya there are suppose to be screws on there, still need to do that to mine. As for the oil, if it isnt dripping that much I'd mess with it later when the truck is driving.

The coolant, ya thats rust. that isn't helping you out in any way shape or form. Make sure its all gone before putting your new radiator in or you'll be after a new one.

Just make sure you get everthing put back where it was, not pressuring you on it, just take your time.

Hope to see it running soon............and for more then 6 minutes.

That's the plan.

 

[ianthegreat]

What's a good way to get rid of all that rust build up? I think it's finally coming off after I ran all the cleaners through it.

 

[dangerranger83]

Just keep flushing it out. Mabey you can put a hose in the block and clean it out that way? From the looks of it the last owner didn't take care of it. Mabey you saved it.

 

[ianthegreat]

I need some help. I'm having a hell of a time finding that egr valve spacer part that broke. None of the autozone's or napa's in my area carry it. Aside from junkyards, anyone have any online stores to look?

If I did go junk yard hopping, I'm not sure which cars/trucks have the same 1bbl carter carb.

 

[locovaca]

I need some help. I'm having a hell of a time finding that egr valve spacer part that broke. None of the autozone's or napa's in my area carry it. Aside from junkyards, anyone have any online stores to look?

If I did go junk yard hopping, I'm not sure which cars/trucks have the same 1bbl carter carb.

How does this look?

Part #EGV285 at Rock Auto

 

[ianthegreat]

Looks like the 2nd and 3rd picture I posted above. I was told its probably a boneyard part only though.

Man I am having the hardest time getting the valve cover off. I can't work it into the right position to clear the rear of the firewall. When I lift it up it touches the firewall and I cant clear part of the internals. Going back out again.

 

[dangerranger83]

Why are you taking the valve cover off? Replacing the gasket? As for the part, they dont look the same. Might have to go to the junk yard and get one.

 

[ianthegreat]

Yes, I replaced the valve cover gasket. I think that was part of the leak. The old gasket was pretty much rotted out and missing in a few places. It looks good now. I've got a new intake manifold gasket also.

As far as I could tell there were no cracks in the manifold. I was also able to get the coolant temp gauge installed and now when I find this egr valve spacer piece I'll be back in business.

Manifold removed.

A pic of the rust build up. It's a very mushy stuff.

Trying to get the valve cover off.

Finally got it off - made sure not to drop any dirt or particles inside

The shop and my vast tool collection.

Powerwashed and sanded the valve cover and intake manifold, nice and clean.

Also removed that back plate and those temp valves. Sanded them down to remove all the buildup and tested w/ a lighter. Both work.

Valve gasket and cover replaced.

One question.. In my last picture there is a little red temperature sensor that runs into my wiring harness. It is directly above the coolant temp sensor. Is this my oil temp sensor? I was thinking about getting another gauge to monitor that, is it necessary?

 

[dangerranger83]

That is an electric oil presure guage for your dash. Thats where you also put a manual oil guage at if you want one. The type my 2.8 has and also my 2.3 that I took out has is a can type.

The valve train looks very clean. Looks like it got its oil changes like it should have unlike the cooling system.

Make sure you put teflon tape or a sealant around the fitting of the temp. guage or it will leak!!!!

Keep up the work. For somebody who said he didn't know much about rangers, I bet you know something now.