1986 Ford Ranger 2.0 Idle/Stalling Problem Help!

[ianthegreat]

There is (should be) a jiggle pin at the edge of the thermostat cup. It's used to help get the air out of the system. If there isn't one you might drill a small hole at the edge of the housing and install the stat with that orientated at the top.

Interesting, I don't recall seeing anything like this but I'll check for it.

 

[ianthegreat]

Well I removed the thermostat, ran a hose inside the engine and really cleaned it out. I also checked the radiator by capping ends and making sure water flowed out - seemed fine. I started the engine and ran it, was cooler than normal but then heated right back up again. The radiator got really hot also so I know the water was circulating fine.

With that said, and my cooling working, what could be another cause for an engine heating up that bad (and that quickly)? (pistons, rings, timing still not correct, distributor, compression, etc etc?)

 

[dangerranger83]

Another option as to go to a dual core radiator if you can.

I wondering now, it just popped in my head....can heater hoses that are installed backwards make an engine run hot like hot coolant is being recirculated through the system and necer making it to the radiator when it should?

What are you using to check how hot the temp. of the motor is? My trucks motor ran 190 degrees and to me that felt hot. My truck uses a manual temp. guage.

I think timing could be a factor but not enough to make it over heat this fast. Re-reading the thread all you did was change the carb. and then the over heating problems started. I've read that engines that run lean run hot.

And you said that it smokes white. From personal experiance that might be burning coolant from a bad head gasket or cracked head. It shouid smell "sweet" if it burning coolant if you know what I mean by sweet. Got a video of it burning white smoke? It might help us out, dont know for sure though.

Hope this helps you out in some way.

 

[ianthegreat]

Another option as to go to a dual core radiator if you can.

I wondering now, it just popped in my head....can heater hoses that are installed backwards make an engine run hot like hot coolant is being recirculated through the system and necer making it to the radiator when it should?

What are you using to check how hot the temp. of the motor is? My trucks motor ran 190 degrees and to me that felt hot. My truck uses a manual temp. guage.

I think timing could be a factor but not enough to make it over heat this fast. Re-reading the thread all you did was change the carb. and then the over heating problems started. I've read that engines that run lean run hot.

And you said that it smokes white. From personal experiance that might be burning coolant from a bad head gasket or cracked head. It shouid smell "sweet" if it burning coolant if you know what I mean by sweet. Got a video of it burning white smoke? It might help us out, dont know for sure though.

Hope this helps you out in some way.

You are correct, I never had the over heating issue until I installed the new carb. Could it be really running that lean? I can adjust the mixture, but the company I purchased it from said that adjust everything when they test the carb's before shipment.

It has actually stopped smoking. It only smoked after the engine got super hot on the road. Other than that I shut her down way before it gets to that point.

I may install a manual temp gauge so I can get a better idea of the temp. I'm just basing it off feeling the heater hoses, the radiator, and the engine cover. Now that I think about it, i'll just leave the radiator cap off and stick a temp gauge down that tomorrow.

At high idle, upon initial start, it runs perfect.. then it starts warming up and when it drops down to the low idle it starts wanting to stall out on me. At this point its pretty damn hot. But again, I'll check the temp and report back.

 

[dangerranger83]

One problem with leaving the cap off is that pressure in the system affects how hot the coolant can get and when it boils. Heater hoses get hot but the motor may be a normal temperature. Dont assume the the temp of your motor, know what it is. Basicly use a manual temp guage for safty and acuracy.

After the motor warms up and the O2 scensor starts reading/working, the computer sytem goes to a closed loop system and control the emissions relays which effects everything.

Also a tach. will help you know what the idle is at.

Samething happened with my dads truck when we put the TBI system on. Found out the EGR valve/sensor controls the fuel tables or in other words controls the computer. But you having a carbed vehicle I dont know.

Just because the carb. was tested before you got it doesn't mean it will work on your motor the same way. First thing I would do is see if the motor is getting to hot, then timing. Also make sure your timing is advancing. If all else fails they mess with the carb but make sure you know what you are doing first and note where the adjustment screws are before you start adjusting meaning how many turns they are out for all the way turned in so that you can put it all back.

You have emissions in your state dont you?

 

[Mark_88]

Well, to be honest, my truck runs super hot when it's warmed up...but that's normal...if I drop oil on the intake or the exhaust it burns off and smokes...moreso on the exhaust...and the heater hoses are designed to be hot enough that touching them can burn your skin...just like your alternator when it spins...it gets really hot if you touch the casing...

Personally, I'd test the temp using a more accurate guage, but only after you've made sure that the coolant is a proper mix that gives you at least -35 rating in a tester...that usually translates to above boiling temps are available...also meaning that you can pretty much boil water on many parts of your engine without worrying about damage to the engine...

Oh, and I will add that my exhaust gets or has been RED hot some times...and that is not normal, but it won't hurt the parts unless you
do have a super rich fuel problem...and that is not good for both fuel economy or the safety of you or others in the vehicle...

 

[ianthegreat]

I'll try and find a tach and also a manual temp gauge.

Will report back probably this weekend with an update. And again thanks!!

 

[ianthegreat]

If I were to purchase a water temp gauge, where should I tap in at?

 

[RangerFabWorks]

If I were to purchase a water temp gauge, where should I tap in at?

on the back of the block on the left side, under the intake you will see the tempurature sender going to the factory gauge, unscrew it and screw in the adaptor then the gauge probe. its hard to see but its there

 

[ianthegreat]

Some of these gauges sell a sort of mid-line heater hose coupler with an adapter to put the therm down in it. Would that work also?

 

[locovaca]

Eh, sort of. That wouldn't be the most accurate temperature as, if your water pump went down, they'd still report your engine as being ok when in reality it would be seizing. Especially ff you're trying to diagnose overheating problems putting the gauge in the block is the most accurate way to do it.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

plus if you had the heat on with the blower motor running, if you did the gauge on the returnm hose, it would read cooler cause as the collant goes into the core, the blower motor cools it down as it enters back into the block. thats why if your truck is running hot, its best to turn the heat on high with the blower on high, cause it will help cool the coolant as it enters into the block.

in short, put the temp gauge in the block. its the best way and the most accurate

 

[ianthegreat]

Alright, I'll look for this port.

 

[dangerranger83]

Let me help you out. Hears a picture of me touching on a 2.3 liter, no difference though.

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Hope this helps you out.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

dangerranger83 is that a FRAM oil filter i spy?????