- Joined
- Feb 11, 2021
- Messages
- 2,943
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- Seattle, WA
- Vehicle Year
- 1991
- Engine
- 3.0 V6
- Transmission
- Automatic
- My credo
- Keep your mind like an umbrella, it only works if its open... Continually learning.
Looks like the perfect spot for the 90* fitting.
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Great, another thing I need to address on my camper. My propane reg/hose/enclosure looks identical to yours and is also kinked. Did elbows not exist back then or something...?
If I remember correctly... the way you got it from me was exactly the way I got it when I bought it. I remember the kink you have being there... but it all worked for me just fine. I don't remember the hose being routed through the band though.
Get a gas detector. You'll be mounting it close to the floor. Propane is heavier than air and will sink, then spread out. It could save a life.Oh, never heard of such a thing.
One thing I like about it is the gas is all external aside from where it goes into the camper for the appliances
Shouldn't he use the same metal type that's there to prevent cross corrosion in using different metals?Get yourself a 1/4" NPT street 90 fitting for the outlet of the regulator so the hose doesn't have to go straight out of the regulator, you could put the 90 at the inlet of the regulator too, might make things nicer... In plumbing lingo "street" means male to female so you only need one fitting... You'd be safe with brass or galvanized, the working pressure of propane is like 350psi max which is in the realm of everything but nylon fittings...
Going to try to find a hose tomorrow, I don't have super high hopes as all I have is regular home heating/AC places to pick on, nearest camper place is over an hour away. I tried to snag a BBQ grill hose tonight and everything about it is way smaller.
Propane is pretty stabile, the fittings on the end of the hoses now are likely brass which is very corrosion resistant which threads into the cast aluminum housing of the regulator...Shouldn't he use the same metal type that's there to prevent cross corrosion in using different metals?
It's called a sail switch and has multiple functions in relation to the heater's operation. You are correct in that it monitors air flow. The fan should run a little while before it lights to clear any leftover gas and a little while after the flame shuts off to do the same. The sail switch tells the control board that air flow is present. The process starts with a 'call for heat' and ends when the thermostat 'thinks' the desired temperature is reached. What happens in between is an article in itself.I was poking around with my multimeter looking at the different voltages... the thing took off and ran twice. Wouldn't do it again though. Stove still works awesome too.
I question the wind switch that monitors the air the fan moves, I was poking at that one.
I did it twice, it won't cycle on its own though. My wife snagged her space heater from work and that made it uncomofrtably warm pretty quick (it was 60 out) so maybe that might work, I don't know.
That makes sense.It's called a sail switch and has multiple functions in relation to the heater's operation. You are correct in that it monitors air flow. The fan should run a little while before it lights to clear any leftover gas and a little while after the flame shuts off to do the same. The sail switch tells the control board that air flow is present. The process starts with a 'call for heat' and ends when the thermostat 'thinks' the desired temperature is reached. What happens in between is an article in itself.
The sail switch could be be bad or it could just be corroded connections. Check the 12v supply going to the control board and clean them then test. The control board can be bad and this is a common problem; particularly where moisture may be a problem. It's a very expensive thing to replace so save it as a last resort.
Go here: Furnace not working - Thor Forums . You do not have to be a member to read their posts. You can also use their search function as a non member. Use the keywords 'sail switch' (without quotes), click the reCaptcha and complete if necessary (you would not see this if a member). Good luck and let us know.
Yeah. I gave the abbreviated version just to get the principle out there. At work, I deal with 17 large burners, all computer controlled with numerous safeties and alarms, electrical gas valves for pilot gas train and main burner gas train, pressure sensors, infrared flame detectors, etc. Yuck.It is a little more advanced though