09 Escape starting issues. Help please.

[rumblecloud]

Brand new battery. Direct replacement. 12.35V.
Turn key to start position and sometimes just a "click." More often than not, it starts right up. it's intermittent and not repeatable - at least so far.
The obvious things:
starter solenoid,/motor.
Wire connections at the starter motor.
Next the ignition switch.

Any thoughts or opinions are welcome.

Thanks.
r

 

[scotts90ranger]

So are you saying you replaced the starter? It sounds like starter to me, happened to the wife's Camry, brushes were worn out too much (I had to investigate) and weren't contacting the stator consistently but would sometimes.

 

[rumblecloud]

Haven't replaced anything yet. Trying to get my head around it. Reason being a couple of instances when turning the key to the on position, some of the alert lights that come on at start up did not come on. According to some research (AI) , that action leads to a bad or warn ignition switch.
Regardless, even if I replace the starter motor/solenoid (one piece) and the ignition switch, it's around $150.
The starter motor replacement is a bitch because of all the "protective measures" Ford has taken to prevent you from gaining easy access to said starter motor

I really like this little SUV. Never had an ounce of trouble with it Wife loves it. It's her daily. So I gotta get it right cuz she does not do well behind the wheel of the lifted 150.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Double check all wire connections between battery and starter, both +ve and - ve. Move the wire behind the insulation as corrosion can build up in there.

 

[Silas Mc]

Those years of escapes have a problem with the ignition switch physically wearing out. (It's plastic that moves constantly) It's a known problem that throws people off. Sometimes you can verify it by pulling at the key at certain angles while turning it and it starts the vehicle. It's easy to swap out because the switch is separate from the lock cylinder.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

To add to the above, my 2011 Escape lock cylinder is wearing out. I have to physically push the key towards the column to get it to engage. There is a wear point on the end of the cylinder. It's possible to build it up with epoxy according to YouTube. I bought another cylinder to put in once this one is totally worn out.

 

[MISWFL]

Besides the mentioned ignition electrical part of the switch, have you checked the neutral safety switch?

When trying the ignition switch, move it around side to side/up and down/in and out and see if that does anything.

The neutral safety switch is on the transmission, but sometimes you can jiggle the shifter while trying the ignition to see if that does anything different.

How many miles?

 

[rumblecloud]

Besides the mentioned ignition electrical part of the switch, have you checked the neutral safety switch?

When trying the ignition switch, move it around side to side/up and down/in and out and see if that does anything.

The neutral safety switch is on the transmission, but sometimes you can jiggle the shifter while trying the ignition to see if that does anything different.

How many miles?

Kinda low miles considering --- 133 and change. It sat in the barn for about a year or two with very limited usage.