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seized compressor


backporch

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Out for the first real test drive after swapping the motor in the ranger. There was an accessory drive noise that I hadn't isolated. On the short trip, I noticed smoke from under the hood and a burning smell. Turns out the compressor pulley had stopped turning and the belt was smoking on the pulley. I didn't have the climate control on any defrost or A/C. I guess this means the compressor is locked up and the clutch in the pulley or its bearing has also failed.

I also got a P1151 check engine light that came on... probably different issue and will look into that also.

I have a spare compressor from my Explorer parts vehicle. Strange thing there is two of four mounting bolts broke. That alone shouldn't matter except for the fact that the compressor cannot be removed from the bracket. There is so much corrosion between the broken bolt ( non-threaded part) and the compressor that it is stuck. really stuck

So finally to my question.
I want to get the Ranger back on the road. Is an option to swap the clutch pulleys on the compressors. If I was able to do that, I would have a free spinning pulley, but would be a mess if the clutch ever engaged. Can that be disabled with a fuse, or something else?
Other option is to free compressor #2 from its mount and then swap. I will probably not worry about the A/C system until it gets warmer, so either way I won't have A/C any time soon.

Thanks as always for the help.
 


Denisefwd93

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The compressor clutch when not "on" electrically, should spin free. Unplug it.

But it's most likely too late if y'all or others ran the comp w/o refrigerant. It will lock up in short order.

special tools required to remove the pulley and clutch from the compressor most people just change the whole assembly. you want to make sure the compressor you're putting on turns and has refrigerant oil in it you should be able to tell by turning the shaft with a wrench on the front of the pulley.
I would say it's pretty unusual for compressor clutch bearing to lock up! Make sure it's not wired wrong. BEFORE you put a replacement or new one on there! Good luck!
 
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snoranger

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Get a belt for a non A/C truck and bypass the compressor.
 

backporch

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Right now the belt is off and with the two wiring connectors unplugged, the compressor pulley will not spin at all. The pulley is frozen solid. Wouldn't that indicate that both the compressor and clutch or bearing have both failed?

The non-A/C belt is a great idea... and easy. thanks neighbor!

I was under the impression that an empty uncharged compressor should not engage so there is no risk of burning it out. I thought the risk was a compressor properly charged but low on oil. Maybe that is a toyota thing?

If I take the wiring connector right next to the pulley off, there should be no issue with the clutch engaging?

If I get the other compressor free, I would put that on, but I wasn't planning on charging the system till later. Wanted to make sure that a compressor without a charge cannot be destroyed
 
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Denisefwd93

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Correct, the pulley should spin free when there is no electric applied to the clutch connector.

Even if the compressor seized the pulley should still spin freely without electric.
 

adsm08

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I've seen more than one instance of the clutch failing and sticking in a partially engaged position, which will do what you are describing, including the part where it stays stuck when unplugged.
 

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