2011 Ranger XLT 4X4 - "Business Casual"


Featured Build Threads

Magnet looks normal to me.

If you don't like it, replace it with a non-magnetic drain plug. Ignorance is bliss. Just ask 95% of the drivers out there on the roads.
I think ignorant is being generous for some of the drivers out there, not sure how some of them manage to keep breathing...

I'm with them, probably all normal, they start making bad vibrations and noises when things go wrong... I thought the one in my '90 was screwed, turns out it was just a bearing, refreshed the whole thing anyway... they're really not hard to rebuild other than needing a super deep puller for the rear bearing.
 
Talked to Charles over at Magnum Powers today. Swell guy. Just a few updates for posterity:

The MPX case does not work with the ModdBox kit. If you're chasing efficiency with a ranger, your only options are to do the rotor coating and do the intake and exit porting job, or find a square port blower and do the rotor coating, and port it to match. Charles says his dyno is showing a 10% increase with coating alone, and lower exit temperatures. I'll post data when I have it.

He says from past experience, an oval port blower will pick up another 15-20% with porting on the intake side and exhaust side. Shipping my exit side plate to him this week to see what he comes up with.

Build is really starting to come together. #feelsgoodman
 
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Should note that it's becoming increasingly obvious 5hat I'm going to need to do quite a bit of tuning due to changes and modifications...

Really hoping I can get away with stock injectors, but now I'm not sure with the efficiency increases.
 
2011 Ranger XLT 4X4 - "Business Casual"


Full send. 🙂

Details to follow.
 
Well. Got up and running with the 340lph fuel pump, and....

2011 Ranger XLT 4X4 - "Business Casual"


Great...
 
I feel like that's sarcastic but I'm not sure why.
 
I feel like that's sarcastic but I'm not sure why.
Fuel trims are maxing out under acceleration, up to -25%.

Not sure why. If it's a regulator, I have to take the bed off. Again.
 
Wouldn't long term only be corrected after some time of running with things working correctly?

I read that as computer now realizes it has more fuel than it did. Though if you had the battery disconnected long enough, LTFT should've reset to zero. Right?
 
Wouldn't long term only be corrected after some time of running with things working correctly?

I read that as computer now realizes it has more fuel than it did. Though if you had the battery disconnected long enough, LTFT should've reset to zero. Right?
Didn't disconnect or reset the pcm
 
Well. Looks like I forgot to snap a photo of the rear frame before the bed went back on.

Oh well. Plenty of photos next year when the truck gets linked.

Rear axle is done for now. Back on factory spring shackles. Only differences vs a factory truck are Duff traction bars, an B2 sway bar with extended links, and 1750lb springs. Still running the factory "mini" axle blocks that the 2010/2011 trucks came with. The truck sits noticeably lower now, and I think its an improvement. If nothing else, my brake lines will thank me. I'm hoping I'm not raked out too much with the next step...

2011 Ranger XLT 4X4 - "Business Casual"


The coilover conversion begins. Today was just disassembly ans parts analysis. Lower arms are getting rebuilt with poly bushings and TTX ball joints, and uppers are getting swapped for mevotech TTX arms and poly bushings. The motorcraft uppers I put on last year got trashed from my overzealous lift.
Meh. Not the worst thing I've done.

Remember kids: pick V8 bars OR leveling keys, not both! Running both tends to kill your upper control arms, and CV shafts become wear items. Thankfully RockAuto honored the lifetime warranty on them.

More commentary on the coilovers as I get them in. Chris over at Kartek designed them for me after reading our threads on them, and made me quite the unique set. Excited to see how they work out.
 

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