Yellow in coolant (Electrolysis?) 97

[5speedin2.3]

The 2.5 in my truck has less than 60K on it, but I am kinda rough on it.
It seems unlikely that it could be the head gasket, I did a pressure check and my oil still looks clean. My dad said he remembers learning about electrolysis when he took his ASE master test and he suggested that I study what it is.

I've been getting really bad gas mileage, but the truck runs great. At times it seems to have no power, most of the time it runs fine.
I just replaced all of the ground wires except the one braided cable that goes from the firewall to the intake last fall, I'm going to replace the braided cable tomorrow.
It could use new hoses and a coolant flush, I just changed the coolant about a year ago when I replaced the thermostat.

I can hear the engine whine over my stereo because of the amplifiers, but it's not very loud, my oxygen sensors also keep reading negative voltage when I hook it to the live data scanner..
I guess this is one of those "AH HA!" moments. Now I might be able to figure out the sporadic misfire that comes and goes.
I've checked and replaced just about everything..

 

[5speedin2.3]

He sent me this link.
http://www.completeradiators.com/articles/34.htm

 

[5speedin2.3]

A friend also sent this to me.

"How to Check for Electrolysis Corrosion. With the engine running and at normal operating temperature, use a digital voltmeter to check for voltage between the coolant and the battery negative (-) cable. Carefully remove the radiator cap or coolant reservoir cap (use a rag and open slowly as the system will be under pressure and hot steam may blow out of the opening). Insert the positive (+) voltmeter lead in the coolant, and touch the negative (-) voltmeter lead to the battery negative post. If you see a zero reading, that's good because it means there is no stray electrical current flowing through the coolant. But if you see a reading of 0.300 volts (300 millivolts) or higher, you've got electrolysis and potential trouble."