what would you check next?

[kimcrwbr1]

A simple test for the exhaust is to hold your hand over the tailpipe and have someone goose it if the gasses coming out dont increase evenly with the engine rpm you probably have a restriction most shops will tell you what it needs. Are you resetting the computer every time you clean/change a sensor. Disconnect the battery for 1/2 hour to reset the comp then run it at medium speeds for 20 mins cycling the A/C if you have it. The computer corrects for worn parts but wont go backwards always disconnect the battery when you change a sensor and let the computer relearn operating values.

 

[LittleHorse]

Yeah, I had the battery disconnected for a week while I was on vacation after replacing the MAP sensor.

I'll try the exhaust thing in the next couple days if I get the power steering leak stopped. It's 5 miles each way to work and back and in that time I lost enough PS fluid that I didn't have power steering as I was pulling back into my driveway last night.

 

[techsvcs]

hows about the ign module i posted last on page 2 of this thread

 

[DisturbedMXer8]

I'm glad you guys found my post about the spout connector... when I read this and saw that people were having issues with it, I was thinking "DAMNIT! Where the hell did I post that picture?!".

Anyways, are you getting any codes? This almost seems to me like a Trans problem maybe, if it's an auto... I've heard that bucking/surging/lack of power could be a torque converter going bad.

Try driving the truck with vacuum and fuel pressure gauges installed, and watch them while you put a load on the engine. You'll get a better idea of what's happening with that 2.9 while it's driving then in park with no load. At cruise, vacuum should stay constant... if it drops to 0, you've got an exhaust restriction. You should have more vacuum at idle, less at cruise, none at WOT. You should have about 30-40 psi fuel pressure at idle, and I think 40-50 at tip-in/part throttle. Not sure about fuel readings at WOT.

 

[LittleHorse]

I'm glad you guys found my post about the spout connector... when I read this and saw that people were having issues with it, I was thinking "DAMNIT! Where the hell did I post that picture?!".

Anyways, are you getting any codes? This almost seems to me like a Trans problem maybe, if it's an auto... I've heard that bucking/surging/lack of power could be a torque converter going bad.

Try driving the truck with vacuum and fuel pressure gauges installed, and watch them while you put a load on the engine. You'll get a better idea of what's happening with that 2.9 while it's driving then in park with no load. At cruise, vacuum should stay constant... if it drops to 0, you've got an exhaust restriction. You should have more vacuum at idle, less at cruise, none at WOT. You should have about 30-40 psi fuel pressure at idle, and I think 40-50 at tip-in/part throttle. Not sure about fuel readings at WOT.

Haven't had a CEL since I did all this, but haven't driven it much either. Even before I started, I only got it about twice, and both times were during extended periods of idling in a drive-through and the light went out within 15 seconds of accelerating on the street again. KOER test did get me a lean code, I assume it still would since the behavior hasn't changed but I haven't checked it again after replacing the MAP sensor and injectors.

It's a manual transmission.

I got the PS leak fixed last night so I'll be able to put some miles on it this weekend, and hopefully have some time to check timing, ignition module, compression, and vacuum again.

 

[robertc1024]

I'm glad you guys found my post about the spout connector... when I read this and saw that people were having issues with it, I was thinking "DAMNIT! Where the hell did I post that picture?!".

That's why we're on TRS Bro! You never know what comment/pic in some thread might let you help a person in the next!

 

[LittleHorse]

I found the SPOUT connector and checked the timing. The timing marks were a little hard to read so I'll have to get under there and actually mark the 10 and check again...I could see zero and I could see 20 and I was a little less than halfway, so maybe 7 or 8...so 2 or 3 degrees less advance than I should have. Unfortunately my wife getting her hair done took less time than I expected so she got home before I had time to adjust it and we had planned to go somewhere when she got back, so I'll be doing that this weekend.

Something else I noticed while looking for the spout connector is that the harness running down to the O2 sensor is hanging loose and appears to be resting directly on the y-pipe. So I could have a melted O2 harness...but I would think I would have a constant CEL in that case.

And the final thing I noticed yesterday is that it seems the bucking and hesitation gets worse when it's wet outside. Maybe it's just a huge coincidence but it was particularly bad yesterday on the way home from work and it's the first time in several weeks I've driven it in the rain.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Definately fix the wire it can be a intermittent short always fix the obvious first and yes the best way to mark the timing is from underneath and scrub the damper pully to where you can see all the marks and numbers so you can see how well it advances. Is your tailpipe breathing good when you raise the rpm. Maybe the wire was getting wet and causing a indirect short giving a false O-2 signal.

 

[LittleHorse]

timing is exactly 8 degrees...so I need to adjust that. Don't know how much of a difference 2 degrees will make but it's something.

Does the timing really have to be adjusted with the engine hot? I'm not real keen on jamming my arm between a firewall and 200+ degree engine components. Seems to me like with the SPOUT disconnected the timing would be free of influences like temperature.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Yea It is recommended to adjust it when the engine is up to temp and yes it will make it run a little smoother It is not that hot i have a short 1/2 combination wrench that once you get it on the hold down bolt will stay there until I am done locking it down. GL

 

[kimcrwbr1]

17hg in vacuum is not that bad and if it is steady not moving more than 1/2 I am guessing it will raise a little with the timing correct. Did you ckeck your timing chain pull the cap off the dizzy and with a wrench turn the crank a little back and fourth and see how far the crank turns before moving the rotor always good to check especially if the engine has alot of miles on it.

 

[LittleHorse]

17hg in vacuum is not that bad and if it is steady not moving more than 1/2 I am guessing it will raise a little with the timing correct. Did you ckeck your timing chain pull the cap off the dizzy and with a wrench turn the crank a little back and fourth and see how far the crank turns before moving the rotor always good to check especially if the engine has alot of miles on it.

good thing I have about three 1/2" wrenches then, i can cut one to the length I need and won't miss it.

how much slack in the chain would be considered "acceptable"?

I dont know the miles on the engine...the odometer reads 10,000 and some change, the joys of five digit odometers. So it could be 110k or 210k. I would guess 110k just based on how little oil it burns but with the rest of the crap that have gone out on it (clutch, M5OD, water pump, door lock actuator, window motor, wheel bearings, ball joints, power steering pump), 210k would be easier to believe.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The closer to none the better. I did the carfax thing and there are ten years missing on it but you can fid out there but it sounds like your engine is still holding oil that is a good sign. Back to the timing with the chain stretched your not getting max air flow thru the valves and could be why the timing is off two degrees if you can noticably move the crank back and fourth without moving the rotor a new chain and gears couldnt hurt especially if your in the 200,000 mile range.

 

[LittleHorse]

F*** Ford and their retard engineers.

The distributor hold down bolt is seized, or it's been torqued to a value that I need more leverage to overcome. I've been at it for two separate 30 minute sessions going from every angle I can and it will NOT break loose. I can't get any decent leverage on it because of where it is. I'm about ready to sell it as-is and just eat the loss I'll take on it. Tired of throwing all my time and money at it.

 

[LittleHorse]

well, I've been busy and haven't worked on this thing much.

I took it down to the local muffler shop and had them pull the cats off and replace with a backward glasspack to keep it quiet. The bucking and jerking has gone away and it seems to have a little more power but still seems to lack power at higher RPM and large throttle openings. Could it be that the fuel pump is marginal and isn't providing enough fuel at those conditions, but is fine at around-town speeds? I've always had fuel pumps just STOP all at once.

Idle is still super rough but smoothes out as soon as it gets off idle speed. Summarizing what's been checked or replaced:

plugs/wires
cap/rotor
MAP sensor
TPS
IAC valve
fuel filter
throttle adjustment, TB cleaned
catalytic converter
injectors

Obviously it's an SUV not a car but my 130hp Toyota Matrix will blow the doors off of this thing and I don't feel like the difference should be as big as it is. I've literally been passed going uphill at 65mph by U-Haul box trucks towing cars. I've never driven another 2.9 V6 so maybe they're just turds and I don't know any better.