What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[97RangerXLT]

I picked up an OEM am/fm/cd/cassette radio for the 97 from a 2001 Sport TRAC. It’s my understanding it will fit if I cut out some little brace in the back in the dash, since the 97 and earlier stepped off in the back and the 98 and later are square in the back and would interfere with the brace. Can anybody shed any light on that? I only paid $50 for the radio and the speakers when the guy upgraded his, and I could flip that back out on craigslist if it’s not going to work, but it’s the only one I found. (I can’t find an 8-track anywhere so I can use the Lincoln tapes!)

I also ordered two tachs for the 97 and 87 with shift lights for $35 total. For the drag racing I’m going to do....

You will also need a wire harness adapter. I have a cd/cassette/radio from a 98 Ranger and it fit just fine in the truck physically but the harness would not fit. At the time there was a company that made an adapter harness but I was a broke college student and couldn't afford it, so I never swapped it out

AJ

 

[Roert42]

If you have saved a chunk of the wiring harness that plugged into the back of the radio you can always just look up the wiring digrams for both and splice them together with your own plugs or butt connector. That's what i've always done when I had to replace an original radio with a new one, but a new aftermarket one always comes with a new wiring harness.

 

[Rick W]

You will also need a wire harness adapter

Thanks guys. How do I spec it? Do I get both radio numbers and surf eBay? By year model? Or? Where in line?

 

[97RangerXLT]

While Roert42's method is totally workable... I hate messing with the wiring harness if I don't have to. so I just googled "how to make a 1998 radio work in a 1997 Ford Ranger" and got a few hits right off the bat. YOu could order the harness and plug it into your existing harness and new radio and never have to et out the wire cutters.

AJ

 

[Dirtman]

You still gotta splice the adapter and new radios harness together. Same thing you'd be doing if you got the end plug peice of the harness from the donor trucks radio and the adapter. Unless I'm missing something here.

 

[97RangerXLT]

You still gotta splice the adapter and new radios harness together. Same thing you'd be doing if you got the end plug peice of the harness from the donor trucks radio and the adapter. Unless I'm missing something here.

the link that I found several years ago was plug and play. you plugged your trucks wireharness into the adapter harness, then the adapter into the new radio. easy peasy

AJ

 

[Rick W]

I haven’t found the plug n play harness yet, but I’ve been told it exists and I’ve been pointed to a couple web sites. I’ll keep y’all posted. I understand it may be $30-35. If so, I’ll break out the cutters, soldering iron and shrink tube. I’ve done it all before....

I got my 1st Covid shot today with the redhead. She’s fine, I got achy, so a slow day for me. But I did put an interesting touch on the 87 4wd Rickstoration. I highlighted the locking hub directions while I was doing the next steps on the monkey lamps for the redhead’s grand girlies.

I’d been thinking about a way of Rickstoring the silver accents on the dash of the Mark V & used these hubs as a Guinea pig. 90% of the dash is very good, but a few high touch spots had the silver rubbed off. I couldn’t do it with a brush even before my hands started shaking...

Here, I cut a short dowel (minimal porosity but porous) and rounded the top just a little. I dipped it in the paint lid, but then blotted it almost dry on the clean paintbrush. Then I very gently tapped it on the raised letters. I’m loving the result! Where there were worn spots that were too low to tap, I put a minuscule amount of paint on the tip of that orange pick, and dotted in the gaps. I wasn’t worried about perfect here, but I’m definitely going to try it on the Lincoln!

QUESTION: & I think I asked, but does anyone know where I can get just those plastic crossbars? Mine seem to be heat damaged. If not, baking soda trick...

& My 87 brake lines came in today, so I’m going to shift my focus from the radio on the 97 to getting the 87 on the road and let these important cosmetic issues wait a little....

 

[ericbphoto]

QUESTION: & I think I asked, but does anyone know where I can get just those plastic crossbars? Mine seem to be heat damaged. If not, baking soda trick...

Do you know what brand your hubs are? I think you mentioned the 5-sided engagement on the back. Mine have that and are MileMarker brand. You could try contacting MileMarker or Warn (whichever applies) and ask about them.

 

[ericbphoto]

I just went out to the garage and looked at one of my spare hubs. It's a Warn and also has the pentagon shape on the back. Front looks like this.

 

[Rick W]

Thanks, thanks a lot!!

That’s what mine looks like if you cut off the two half circles and kept the bar. From underneath, the pentagram is ok, but all the outside edges of the bar were frayed almost like they were burned. I took off the whiskers and they work ok, but I don’t know for how long. Hubs seem fine, but I haven’t had it running myself yet. I’ll reach out to Warn again and MM.

thanks!

 

[sgtsandman]

Tuned the quad band antenna on the 2011.

 

[racsan]

picked up a “better “ back hatch door for the escape, its off a white one so easy paint prep. Just sand-mask-spray. Has everything but inside plastic. hopefully the defroster grid & rear wiper work, if they dont I can just transfer parts. Im suprized how much paint is, looked on fleabay and 20-30 a can. ouch. Oh- paid $200 for this back hatch. not bad considering its complete with glass , wiper motor and hinges even.

 

[Bgunner]

picked up a “better “ back hatch door for the escape, its off a white one so easy paint prep. Just sand-mask-spray. Has everything but inside plastic. hopefully the defroster grid & rear wiper work, if they dont I can just transfer parts. Im suprized how much paint is, looked on fleabay and 20-30 a can. ouch. Oh- paid $200 for this back hatch. not bad considering its complete with glass , wiper motor and hinges even.

My local auto paint supplier charges $25per can being the hardener and paint in a rattle can that covers about 3 square feet. Its good stuff and has a great spray pattern, unlike rustoleum or the crud walmart sells.

If you can get it for the price you mentioned and is the 2 stage paint go for it. I like the k2 clear coat personally.

 

[racsan]

My local auto paint supplier charges $25per can being the hardener and paint in a rattle can that covers about 3 square feet. Its good stuff and has a great spray pattern, unlike rustoleum or the crud walmart sells.

If you can get it for the price you mentioned and is the 2 stage paint go for it. I like the k2 clear coat personally.

I should check local, ordering online you dont know for sure when it was mixed, and of course there is the chance of damage or being lost in shipping. It will be a few months, dont have anyplace inside to paint and much too cold out to do in the garage.

 

[2drxploder]

Working on replacing wood, and a re-fresh on the ol dove tail, to haul the ranger a few places. stage 1 done