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Water Pump/ Weep Hole

azeadra

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My 2003 Ranger with a 3.0 L V6 is dumping coolant when idling and right after I shut it off. I think it is my water pump but I am not sure if the hole I am looking at is the weep hole. There isn't an overheating problem,yet, I drove it about 80 miles home after discovering the problem and topping off the coolant. It didn't lose much on the drive, or at least didn't seem to and it got to operating temperature just fine and it never dropped in temperature either I just want to make sure I am going down the right path before buying parts. I would rather not have to chase the problem. Thanks for any help.
 


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RonD

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Water pump weep hole is on the "outside" of the impeller shaft, on the underside, close to pulley, only hole there.

When impeller shaft bearing starts to wear out it will wobble causing shaft seal to leak and coolant will start to come out around impeller shaft, and out the weep hole.

It will start off slow and steadily get worse over time
 
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delaware74b

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The front cover (behind the water pump) is a problem on the 3.0's. I thought the water pump was bad on my '04. I had a small leak just to the right (passenger side) of center of the pump. Water pump was fine. It got replaced anyway due to 240K miles on it. I also changed the timing chain set while there as it was only 1 more bolt to change it.

Remember, the fan clutch is a left-hand thread and can be a b***ch to back off. Plan on at least 4 hours if everything goes well and you have all the right tools to do it. You will be pulling the ac compressor and p/s pump off the engine to pull the water pump due to Ford's messed up bracket design. I was able to do this without dropping the oil pan. Oil change is mandatory. Antifreeze will get into the oil pan as soon as you pull the water pump.
 
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ericbphoto

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Antifreeze will get into the oil pan as soon as you pull the water pump.
How/why? :shok:
 

delaware74b

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The front edge of the oil pan extends past the front cover and is directly below the water pump. To pull the front cover, you need to remove the 2 very front oil pan bolts. You pull the front cover and you can look down into the oil pan. Coolant that is still in the block runs down the front of the engine right into the oil pan. I had about a half cup of antifreeze in the oil pan when I pulled the drain plug.
 

RonD

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I think his comment was on your statement about the Water Pump, not on the Cover plate behind the water pump.

You can change water pumps without removing the engines front cover, so oil pan is never exposed.

"Antifreeze will get into the oil pan as soon as you pull the water pump."

Should be "Antifreeze will get into the oil pan as soon as you pull the Front engine cover."

And yes front cover gasket is a known coolant leak point on the 3.0l Vulcan engine
 

ericbphoto

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Ron,

Thanks for the clarification. I have recently replaced my water pump and did not notice any way that coolant could get into the oil from that point. So, I wanted to know if there was something I had not noticed. Good to know about the cover.

Thanks.
 

cjpro

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Changing a pump on a 1994 model 3.0

I'm in the same boat with a water pump change.

I've heard that an electric radiator fan replacement for the clutch fan may improve horsepower output? Seems it wouldn't be much.

Is it worth the trouble to install an electric fan and replace the clutch fan assembly?

If so, does anyone have a source for a recommended electric fan kit?


Thanks!!
 

ericbphoto

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With electric fan, you no longer need the clutch. The fan is completely independent of the engine.

I got a Volvo fan from the junk yard and did my own installation. Look up my thread and it will give you a wiring diagram.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

ericbphoto

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2WD / 4WD
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Total Lift
6"
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My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
I'm on my phone right now and can't get the list KS for you. There is also a tech article about doing the Volvo fan installation.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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