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Want rear bumper for XLT


James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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Automatic
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31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
I want a black tubular bumper, it has to have place for license plate and I want Class 3 hitch so ideally I am looking for a bolt-on for the 97 that has the hitch and bumper as one unit. I think that would be stronger all around and shouldn't require welding reinforcements - not that I'm against it, just, I'd have to hire that out.
I'm searching and just asking here if there is some specific place(s) that would be carrying that.
If I can't find them as one then, finding the hitch probably isn't hard, but it still begs the question of the bumper.
I guess if I had to choose one or the other, I'd do the hitch and leave the existing bumper.
--
It's really the same question about the front too. I think I want bull bar/tubular bumper/skid plate with hitch up front too. Again, maybe to just hitch to start.
If I have hitches front and rear it means if I get stuck and I have a winch that mounts to the hitches I can pull myself forward or backward assuming I can find something to hook the winch to.
At worst tow straps can be attached even if I don't have a winch yet.
---
Ah, what's my tow capacity on the XLT, 5,100? I think that's right...
 


James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L in XLT, 3.0L in B3000
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
"yes but" this isn't as strong as attaching the receiver to the frame? I don't think that would be a class 3 hitch.
Also would have to rig something for license plate/lights
the oem ones had it but I think basically I will never find one
thanks it is in the right direction that's for sure.
 

dvdswan

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Keep your mind like an umbrella, it only works if its open... Continually learning.
Last edited:

don4331

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@James Morse - you are correct about the 1st bumper @dvdswan posted - it is only rated class 1.
Note 1: Just because a hitch has a class 3 receiver doesn't make it class 3 rated. Class 3 hitches bolt far enough forward on frame so that the load doesn't fail anything.​
Note 2: The fine print for the Rangers limits towing to 350 lb tongue weight/3,500 lbs trailer weight for weight carrying. If you want to tow more than that legally, you need a weight distribution hitch (and have it connected)​
Note 3: The fine print of trailer law in Virginia says: If your trailer has a GVWR of >3k lbs, it needs to have functioning brakes.​
 

ericbphoto

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Wellford, SC
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1993
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6"
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35"
My credo
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The openings in the center of the hitches shown above will allow you to drill a couple holes and mount a license plate to the rear crossmember which is a visible location.
 

Roert42

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2WD
I’ve never seen any bumper with a hitch built in. A class 3 hitch has pretty substantial amounting compared to a normal bumper.
Bumpers normally have fairly light mounting brackets with slotted holes to adjust line up of the body panels and angle.

I would go for two separate pieces 100%.

They do not make any tube bumpers like you posted. However, Affordable Off-road makes some pretty nice bumpers. You can get winch mounts and recovery points built in. You may find something over there you links.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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Engine Size
4.0L in XLT, 3.0L in B3000
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
Yes I was looking at AOR they have some nice stuff and I'm thinking they probably could make whatever you want, for a price. Didn't seem outrageous on prices though.

All info noted regarding towing and reinforcement on Class 3 hitch / receiver. I really like the tubular with the hitch, if I could get something like that it'd be super.

I really want it mostly for attaching winch, I have no towing needs right now. Maybe at one point would want to to a 2400 car on a trailer, it -might- be do-able with weight distribution hitch and trailer brakes. But it's only a "maybe", I'm really more interested right now in the ability to pull myself out of something or have an attach point for someone to pull me out.

Does the weight distribution hitch require a different setup i.e. does it have to be set up like that from day 1 or is that add on?
 

Roert42

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The weight distribution hitch is something extra that is added to the typical class 3 hitch.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L in XLT, 3.0L in B3000
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
Wow is that nice. It's been a while since I towed anything, but I know for sure when a boat starts careening back and forth at speed it's a real scary situation plus as you pointed out legally there are requirements.
So you are saying on the right side of the pic, is where this attaches to my normal class 3 hitch that is bolted to the truck's frame. Then they are showing part of the trailer itself and you bolt these add'l pieces (black) to the trailer. When you disconnect from the receiver, all the sway arrangement stays with the trailer and it is permanently attached to the triler except it looks like the chain stays are adjustable.
Hope I got that right. It's a nice looking arrangement and I see how it is preventing the trailer from going too much one side or the other.
THANKS.
Then the answer is, as long as I have a good decent Class 3 hitch, I can at any time add the sway control, it's completely separate from the hitch.

The add'l pic I would like to see now is, if anyone has one is a winch that is attached (temporarily) to the hitch. Because I want to be able to do that fore and aft. I've seen the long power cable you just attach them to the battery when you want to use it otherwise keep the stuff in the cargo box.

I'm thinking of what is the most useful thing I could do aside from tires/suspension/sway bars all that to help with off road. Let's say my other half says "what if you get stuck" and I say, well, given something to hook to, I can pull myself out forwards or backwards.

Side question: if you are using the winch are you also in the cab putting power to the wheels, or, are you leaving the truck in neutral and just winching?

For serious off road I imagine people don't go it alone so there is that, but let's say I'm alone and stuck, I'd really want a winch. I know some of these questions seem dumb but I just am new to all this.

It sounds to me like hitch and winch are completely separate from the bumper -unless- I go with a bumper with integral hitch like dvdswan's pic which looks awesome. But otherwise I could keep stock bumper and just do a good properly installed Class 3 hitch and I'd be good to go to attach a winch to it when needed, and I'd be good to go for towing with sway control if I ever wanted it.
 

Uncle Gump

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20190921_090125.jpg


My AOR rear... they make some nice stuff.
 

Roert42

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So you are saying on the right side of the pic, is where this attaches to my normal class 3 hitch that is bolted to the truck's frame.
Yeah, I've never used one, but that's my understanding.


As far as the winch goes.

I would wire up some plugs on the front and back, that way when you move the winch basket you just plug your winch in.
electric winches will come with a remote, either with a long cord or wireless, to control them.
You could sit in the drivers seat and work the throttle while using the winch controls at the same time.



Keep in mind, there are ways to recover a stuck truck without a winch. You may need more then just a winch.
You can always use some straps and a highlift jack or come-a-long to pull the truck.

Here are some progress pics form pulling my truck out of the mud. Was sunk up to the frame in boggy mud. My brother and I used a come along, two 30' straps, and a tree to drag it sideways out of the mud. There were no trees in front or behind the truck. We had to dig out the wheels and lift the truck up with a jack multiple times to keep it from digging deeper in the mud.
 

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Roert42

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Second picture
 

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James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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Location
Roanoke VA
Vehicle Year
1997 and 1999
Make / Model
XLT 4x4 & B3000
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L in XLT, 3.0L in B3000
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
Uncle that is NICE. I take it those are added back-up lights in it?
What are the flanges w/ holes for? Can you attach to them (i.e. bumper is attached to frame) or what?
I see it with the license plate mount/lights it's good
Roert42 wow what a nightmare. Thanks for all the add'l good info.
What is that pipeline r.o.w. or firebreak or what
 

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