TTB length comparison

[Bracket racer]

Ok, I might be right out to lunch...however.
I got a ttb 150 for the outer knuckles to do the swap onto my 91 ranger, however I was looking at shortcuts (of course lol) and thinking, since people weld on the arms to plate or gusset the weak points, why not just cut the complete 150 arm down to ranger size and weld it back up with reinforcements? Since this is an off road only truck anyway...
I thought of how much taper they have and how to make up for it, so, I measured the length of the 91 ranger and the 95 150 drivers side arm.

Uhhhhh, they are both 37-38" from pivot bolt to inside of "C"!!!!!
Now I was only measuring on one knee because I was in good clothes and the wife was waiting in the car, but it looks like the 150 has less overlap between the pivot points and that's how the 150 gets its wider track than the ranger.

So, how come everyone is swapping knuckles instead of complete arms? (When I have time to measure and think it might be apparent, but having an epiphany just before going out is maddening!!!! Lol.

 

[Shran]

Well.. a few pros and cons here...

The D44 TTB is wider. If you narrow it, you need shorter shafts... $$$$$
D35 shafts use the same u-joints that D44 shafts do, the D35 shafts are just a little smaller in certain areas...the D44 is not a huge upgrade in that area.
D35 hubs really suck. So do the wheel bearings. That is why people do the knuckle or spindle swap (using D35 knuckles.) You get much better lockout hubs and wheel bearings that are further apart.
D44 is an upgrade in terms of ring gear and pinion size, the center section is also cast iron and quite a bit stronger than the aluminum D44 housing.
D44 is also much heavier.
You can get RCV axles shafts for the D44 but the D35 has zero aftermarket shafts available, at least to my knowledge.

 

[Bracket racer]

Thanks for the reply Shran, but I'm thinking now of just swapping in the 44arm ( leaving the 35 centre section in)
Either the 150 arm is the same length as the ranger or close to it. If it's the same, I'll use the 35 axle in the 44 arm. If they are different lengths (doesn't look like it) then I'll use the 44 axle in the 44 arm and the 35 diff.

Now I wish I was home instead of running the roads with the wife, this is bugging me.

Is the length of each axle on this site anywhere? I looked and can't find it but that could be because I'm using a potato to search with, lol.

 

[Bracket racer]

And to be clear, I believe from looking at it, the track is different between the 150 and ranger because of the distance between the pivot points of the arms, not he length of the arms. The ranger seems to have more distance between the pivot bolts, narrowing the track.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Dana 44 TTB Axle Swap - The Ranger Station

Contributed By: 4x4junkie The Dana44 TTB will bolt right in after narrowing it 3" on each side. I cut the section out between the diff and radius arm mount on the driver side beam, and 3" on the same area (behind the radius arm mount) on the passenger side beam. You can (re)use the passenger

www.therangerstation.com

Ford Ranger Dana 44 TTB Conversion FAQ’s - The Ranger Station

Congratulations. If you're looking at this page, you're likely contemplating a Dana 44 TTB (Twin Traction Beam) swap in your Ford Ranger. It also means that you're thinking outside of the box, and haven't given in to the more common approach of a Dana 44 solid axle swap (SAS). Be prepared for...

www.therangerstation.com

@4x4junkie did this swap on his '94, I think pre-internet.

 

[Shran]

Thanks for the reply Shran, but I'm thinking now of just swapping in the 44arm ( leaving the 35 centre section in)
Either the 150 arm is the same length as the ranger or close to it. If it's the same, I'll use the 35 axle in the 44 arm. If they are different lengths (doesn't look like it) then I'll use the 44 axle in the 44 arm and the 35 diff.

Now I wish I was home instead of running the roads with the wife, this is bugging me.

Is the length of each axle on this site anywhere? I looked and can't find it but that could be because I'm using a potato to search with, lol.

Hold up.... that will not work. The D35 center section will NOT bolt onto the D44 beam. If you want D44 parts, you either swap the whole thing, do a knuckle swap onto your D35 or a spindle swap onto your D35.

 

[ericbphoto]

Yeah. Read the articles that @85_Ranger4x4 linked. This stuff is documented. You don't have to guess and reinvent it.

 

[SenorNoob]

Spindle swap? I've noticed they're similar, but haven't seen where anyone had tried it. What's involved?

 

[Shran]

Spindle swap? I've noticed they're similar, but haven't seen where anyone had tried it. What's involved?

Two different options - pre '80 Chevy D44 spindles and hub and you can use a TTB F150 rotor or the Chevy rotor and redrill the bolt pattern... you use the GM caliper, pads and caliper bracket either way. Search "mappyjack." Similar to the old disc brake swap on drum brake Early Bronco D44 axles.

The other option is to use mid 90's Bronco (and maybe F150 too, 95/96/97 will be safest) spindles, hub and rotor and the D35 knuckle, caliper, and brake pads. I believe these spindles bolt onto the D35 knuckle BUT you have to machine down the OD of the rotor. My buddy did this on his Explorer. It's pretty slick, probably the cleanest and easiest way to do it.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

For option 2 how far do you have to knock down the rotor?

 

[Shran]

I'll ask, I don't remember it being very much. 1/8" or so.

 

[Bracket racer]

Wow! Thanks for all the info guys, after looking at everything and deciding what my needs are this is what I come up with.
Bad
The 44 I have is 3.08 gears
The complete swap will result in a wider track that I don't want
The front axle will have a 5x5 bolt pattern and will require new rims and rear axle swap
Good
Stronger ball joints
Better/stronger hubs and locks
Bigger brakes

But what do I NEED?
I need a stronger hub lock
Bigger spindle/bearing placement for strength with 35's

What I don't need?
Stronger ball joints (no issues or smashing/crashing that would warrant a stronger joint)
Stronger diff (35 is plenty strong for my low speed off roading)
Bigger brakes (only go off road in low range)

So, I think what is best for me is to replace the spindles and turn down the disc.
On the back I'll see if I have to swap in my early bronco 9" or drill the existing flanges for the bigger bolt pattern.

Thanks everyone for the links and info/replies!

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If you want to complicate your choices farther you can get much heavier duty hubs for what you have which would then just leave the spindle bearing issue...

Warn Jeep Hubs for the Dana 35 - The Ranger Station

So what are these Warn “Jeep” hubs you probably have heard about? Warn actually makes two different versions of the same hub. They are both “standard” hubs as per Warn’s definitions of their “Premium” and “Standard” locking hubs, but … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

 

[Shran]

The Jeep hubs are a good option but they are $250. Probably money well spent if you don't want to/can't do a D44 hub conversion. $250 would probably more than pay for everything you need to do the spindle/hub swap though, then you just need 5x5.5 wheels.

I don't think the wheel bearing deal is a problem for most of us that run small tires but it would scare me with 35's. That is an awful big, heavy tire for a stock D35... I know a lot of guys do it but having the bearings further apart on the D44 spindle will make things a lot happier.

I would suggest running adapters on the back to get 5x5.5 bolt pattern. It is possible to redrill the shafts and drums but it gets awful close to the edge of the shaft. I've had adapters on mine for 10 years now with zero issues, just make sure you follow the torque procedure to the T and use blue locktite on the inner lug nuts.

 

[Bracket racer]

I've heard about using jeep hubs but that doesn't solve the bearing issue as you said. I have the whole 150 frame sitting there now, I'll just pull the spindles and stuff off it. The rotor can be turned down by my former weapons tech with his lathe.
Also, today I went and picked up a set of 285/75/16's (off Facebook) for the wife's explorer and while in the city stopped at princess auto. (Canadian version of harbour freight) I picked up the wheel pattern index so I can drill the back axles if possible. It was only $9 so if I can't use it or drill them, I'll look up the spacers.

My kid got home basic training today and after seeing my truck and now mama's truck he said now he needs a truck.... More freaking work coming up! Lol.