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Truck tries to crank over


Roosternugget

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I been working on this truck for a little over 2 months now, since then I fixed the timing, replaces the Crank position sensor, fuel pump, full fluid change, and smaller fixes here and there. When I go to crank the truck up, it tries to start, and just won't, i have every sensor hooked up, all the fuses are good, battery is brand new, cables are all wired in, and the fuel pressure is good. Im thinking its mechanical, but my buddies say its electrical. Any ideas what it might be? Thanks in advance. Its a 91 4.0L 4X4
 


franklin2

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Pull the codes and see what you get.
 

MikeG

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If you have fuel pressure at the rail (how much?) then for sure you have an electrical issue, or every single injector is clogged.

Either the injectors aren't firing, or you have no spark. By the way you can get fuel pressure, and cranking, with a blown PCM fuse. Guess how I know that.....
 

franklin2

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I get code 000 no codes at all.
Something is not working correctly. If everything is ok with the computer, you should get a code 11. You should have a little ground wire coming off the battery negative cable, going to a connector over near the battery, and then going into the harness. Is that hooked up and not corroded?
 

Roosternugget

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If you have fuel pressure at the rail (how much?) then for sure you have an electrical issue, or every single injector is clogged.

Either the injectors aren't firing, or you have no spark. By the way you can get fuel pressure, and cranking, with a blown PCM fuse. Guess how I know that.....
I'm gonna double check all fuses, it has been getting torn apart and put back together for the past couple months
 

RonD

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Simple test that's been used since the 1890's, lol, the first gasoline engines

50/50 test
remove air tube from intake, spray gasoline or ether(quick start) into the intake
Try to start
If it starts runs and then dies you have a fuel delivery issue
If it doesn't start then you have a spark issue

50/50..............instant results on where to focus your attention

Only the EDIS-6 module, crank sensor and computer(1990-1994 4.0l) is used for startup, none of the other sensors matter
To see if EDIS/crank sensor is working WATCH the CEL(check engine light)
CEL comes on with key on, and will go OFF when it sees a timing pulse from EDIS/crank sensor
So watch CEL when cranking, if it goes off then crank sensor is working
Crank sensor pulse sets spark timing and fuel injector timing
 

Roosternugget

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Something is not working correctly. If everything is ok with the computer, you should get a code 11. You should have a little ground wire coming off the battery negative cable, going to a connector over near the battery, and then going into the harness. Is that hooked up and not corroded?
Both of the little wires are cleaned and hooked tight on the negative terminal, ill try to follow the wires and see if there's another ground im missing
 

Roosternugget

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Simple test that's been used since the 1890's, lol, the first gasoline engines

50/50 test
remove air tube from intake, spray gasoline or ether(quick start) into the intake
Try to start
If it starts runs and then dies you have a fuel delivery issue
If it doesn't start then you have a spark issue

50/50..............instant results on where to focus your attention

Only the EDIS-6 module, crank sensor and computer is used for startup, none of the other sensor matter
To see if EDIS/crank sensor is working WATCH the CEL(check engine light)
CEL comes on with key on, and will go OFF when it sees a timing pulse from EDIS/crank sensor
So watch CEL when cranking, if it goes off then crank sensor is working
Crank sensor pulse sets spark timing and fuel injector timing
It pretty much starts up and dies, its got ab rand new coil pack, spark plug wires, and correctly gapped spark plugs. How can I check if my injectors are pushing enough fuel? Or is my compression off, my buddy who's giving me a ride around wont take me to auto zone to get a compression tester. And i just put in a brand new crank sensor, no check engine light anymore
 

Roosternugget

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I just pulled this out of the internal fuse box, this is probably the issue here
16000206567372188019070478147829.jpg
 

sheep herder

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My credo
If it ain't broke, break it.
Yep, that's a problem. :LOL:
 

RonD

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There is nothing in the Cab fuse box that would prevent 4.0l engine from starting in a 1991 Ranger

Looks like a circuit breaker type fuse

1991 cab fuse box diagram here
 

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Roosternugget

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There is nothing in the Cab fuse box that would prevent 4.0l engine from starting in a 1991 Ranger

Looks like a circuit breaker type fuse

1991 cab fuse box diagram here
Dang, I thought I was on to something XD
 

Roosternugget

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QUICK QUESTION! On the OHV, is the dont on the cam sprocket sopposed to be on the top or bottom when timed? I have reason to believe I did my timing bass ackwards
 

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