Trashed driveshaft

[FritzTKatt]

So somehow (way too long of a story) my driveshaft has a giant dent in it. Obviously bent. I'm in between a 1 piece swap, and the same style. I want to do the 1 piece swap, but can't make sense of the flange/u-joints. I haven't had problems with a 2 piece yet (besides the one in my other ranger throwing a carrier bearing after 200k miles...)

As far as I can tell from the tech articles, any 98+ (steel) will bolt right in without changing flanges or the like. If I don't have to, then I'll do the work to put a 1 piece in.

Mostly I'm concerned about this because it's spend $60 to have a new carrier bearing pressed on, or do some work on the truck. I don't want to have to worry about that carrier being of unknown quality. On either shaft, I will replace the u-joints with fresh ones, and pull it apart and lube it.

So besides the flange/u-joint question, what are the opinions on actually doing the swap?

 

[AgPete139]

It's supposedly better. You get the interference with the gas tank skid plate on flex, and there's that whole issue of cutting away the cross member.

So people have commented that it fixes vibration and causes less driveline binding; others have stated that it is for slower speed offroad use only. It depends.

 

[AgPete139]

NOTE: Again, it could also be because the u-joints are old. Yes, it will bolt right in and I don't think you'll have issues with fresh parts installed.

 

[cvar]

Yup, simple bolt-in. Flanges from a 2001 perfectly matched my 1997 extended cab. Make sure to lube the slip-joint in your new 1-piece. Toss out the center bearing & support bracket, after drilling/grinding off its 3 rivets. See photos & info at ( http://imgur.com/a/BL7mz ) <<== CLICK

 

[Elutheros]

I just did the one piece swap on my 1992 extended cab. Really pretty easy. Used a 2000 drive shaft with new u joints--although mine is a little weird because I have a NP205 transfer case so I had to use a 1310 to 1330 conversion joint.

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[FritzTKatt]

Thanks guys. If I can find one I will do the swap. Seems like less to worry about in the long run.

EDIT: I have an exhaust leak... looks like you're missing the whole damn setup!

 

[Elutheros]

Not quite done with my V8 swap. Still working wiring and a few other things before I can get to the exhaust.

 

[FritzTKatt]

Oh, lol. Have you posted your v8 swap? I don't really check that section, ever.

 

[adsm08]

You will only get interference issues at the skid plate if you use the big aluminum shaft. The steel one is fine.

Also, be sure to use teflon grease on the slip joint. Regular grease just doesn't work as well and dries out much faster.

 

[FritzTKatt]

Thanks.

 

[4x4junkie]

The steel one hits when flexing too, but not quite as bad as the aluminum one. Either one WILL require trimming the edge of the tank skid plate.

 

[FritzTKatt]

God I hate prices out here. Only place I can find a shaft is San Diego for $250. It's a steel one at least. I'm supposed to have off Friday so I can go pick it up then... Hopefully the u-joints aren't trashed on it.

Hopefully the poor ground I found earlier will let the old girl run (still borrowing a car to go to sandy though, no matter what)

 

[adsm08]

The steel one hits when flexing too, but not quite as bad as the aluminum one. Either one WILL require trimming the edge of the tank skid plate.

I know I don't flex as much as some of you guys, but I haven't hit yet. Going on 5 years now.

 

[txgocartB3000]

I left San Diego back in 1994 but there were some good yards by Otay Mesa just east of Chula Vista.

Those yards had everything for good prices, I miss them.

Have you tried looking there?

Ray

 

[FritzTKatt]

Mostly the half hour drive to sandy... in my situation I don't have time to screw around with searching for yards either. I expected $200 anyway, so it's not that much more, if the U-joints are good then I can fix other things and do them at my leisure.