Transmission Inquiry / Request for assistance

[RobbieD]

I have always truted LUK, and never been disapointed.

Seems like I remember people finding a LUK logo on factory Ford clutches before.

Do yourself a big favor, and order the master and slave cylinders as a pre-bled pair.

 

[FordRangerFan777]

I have always truted LUK, and never been disapointed.

Seems like I remember people finding a LUK logo on factory Ford clutches before.

Do yourself a big favor, and order the master and slave cylinders as a pre-bled pair.

Thanks for the recommendation. I'm guessing not getting them pre-bled can be a giant pain to bleed myself?

 

[RobbieD]

Thanks for the recommendation. I'm guessing not getting them pre-bled can be a giant pain to bleed myself?

Yes. "Giant pain" is an understatement.

The master cylinder mounts at an angle on the firewall. This makes a "closed" end angling up and creates a pocket that traps any air the system, preventing it from being bled out.
If the master is installed dry, it takes a miracle to get it bled.

So the usual procedure on a new master is to pre-bleed the master and the slave together hanging outside the truck, then disconnecting and installing them. But you can now buy a set that's factory pre-bled that makes life a lot easier.

 

[FordRangerFan777]

That makes sense! As I've not done this before, why do people recommend to get a new master & slave cylinder? Do they wear out or leak over time?

 

[RobbieD]

They will leak and wear out over time.

Since the transmission has to be pulled to replace the slave cylinder, most opt at minimum to put a new slave in with a new clutch. Same for the throwout and pilot bearings.

If the clutch is worn enough to require replacing, since the trans has to come out it just makes sense to replace everyting associated at the same time.

 

[RonD]

LUK should be less expensive than Motorcraft unless you find a good deal

The thing with most big Corporations, like Ford, is that they are averse to bad press
i.e. parts made by child labor or unfair labor practices, materials for parts that come from conflict areas

So for any company to provide parts to Motorcraft/Ford there will be a lot of extra paper work/documentation required, also Motorcraft does require Quality Control before shipping

All that adds up, Motorcraft part might be 2 to 4 times more expensive than "off-the-shelf" OEM part

 

[CamTheHedgehog]

I'm guessing not getting them pre-bled can be a giant pain to bleed myself?

As others have stated, "giant pain" is understating the predicament. The reason why ford felt it was necessary to mount them at an angle I will never know.

 

[SenorNoob]

...The reason why ford felt it was necessary to mount them at an angle I will never know.

I'd be willing to bet it made the connection to the pedal easier somehow.

 

[RonD]

+1 ^^^

And the brake booster is in the way for a horizontal exit thru firewall

 

[FordRangerFan777]

They will leak and wear out over time.

Since the transmission has to be pulled to replace the slave cylinder, most opt at minimum to put a new slave in with a new clutch. Same for the throwout and pilot bearings.

If the clutch is worn enough to require replacing, since the trans has to come out it just makes sense to replace everyting associated at the same time.

That makes sense to me. And based on this thread it seems my pilot bearing is (has been) going out so I'm definitely replacing it and while in there will be replacing all associated parts / components.

 

[FordRangerFan777]

LUK should be less expensive than Motorcraft unless you find a good deal

The thing with most big Corporations, like Ford, is that they are averse to bad press
i.e. parts made by child labor or unfair labor practices, materials for parts that come from conflict areas

So for any company to provide parts to Motorcraft/Ford there will be a lot of extra paper work/documentation required, also Motorcraft does require Quality Control before shipping

All that adds up, Motorcraft part might be 2 to 4 times more expensive than "off-the-shelf" OEM part

So THAT's why the 'name brand' for car parts was always more expensive! That makes a lot of sense. Who knew? I'll look for LUK unless there is a motorcraft deal happening.

 

[FordRangerFan777]

As others have stated, "giant pain" is understating the predicament. The reason why ford felt it was necessary to mount them at an angle I will never know.

The things that make you go 'hmmm'

 

[RonD]

Yes, supply chain is a BIG DEAL with all "name brands" since the media started digging into to those sources

 

[FordRangerFan777]

Alright, so as I continue preparing for this task, and looking back through the thread, this is a list of what everyone has recommended. Also I should look for LUK unless there is a good deal on Motorcraft brand, right?

Fly wheel - if it can be resurfaced otherwise get a new one
Slave cylinder (pre-bled)
Master cylinder (pre-bled)
Shifter bushings (I have a fair amount of slop in my shifter - especially while in 'N')
Rubber shift rail plugs
Metal freeze plugs
Self-adjusting pressure plate
Throwout bearing
Pilot bearing

Am I missing anything?


Also, stuff for a rear main seal job. But I don't want to derail the transmission conversation and 'shift' to that topic here.

 

[RobbieD]

Rubber shift rail plugs
Metal freeze plugs

If you install the metal freeze plugs to replace the original rubber plugs, then you won't need to get any new rubber plugs.

Have you planned out how you'll move the transmission around? Yes, if you're a young big guy it can be manhandled, solo or with friend(s), but the point is not wait to figure this part out just as you're pulling the last bellhouing bolt.

Exhaust. Manual trans out / manual in I think that you might can work around the Y-pipe, but if you plan on dropping the Y-pipe for easier access the manifold bolts will usually put up a fight. Minimum, at least hose them several times and well with PB Blaster or Kriol for a few days leading up to removing the pipe. You made need to heat the bolts. Another way, is pay a muffler shop to get them loose and snug them back for you before you dive into the clutch job.

It's not too bad of a job; just don't get rushed and don't get frustrated.