Trans pan volume differences? Also odd noises post-rebuild

[overloaded]

I have an '04 XLT 3.0 (RWD, not 4x4) with a 5R55E in it. I had the trans rebuilt professionally back in April after the input sprag finally wore out and failed, and took the opportunity after getting it back to swap the standard pan for the 4x4 model in order to have an easy-drain pan for later fluid changes. I did replace the transmission filter with a 4x4-compatible model as well. I did not change the dipstick at all.

I also replaced the external cooler, as I understood they're basically un-cleanable by nature, with an identically shaped+sized one, and installed a Wix inline trans filter on the return flow in order to catch any gunk that the trans flush compounds didn't get.

Part of what I need to know is, are there any volume differences between the 4x2 pan and the 4x4 pan? I added the 10 quarts as instructed by the shop(1 quart directly in the TC pre-installation, 4 more down the dipstick after mounting, and then added the rest while running in Park with a warm engine) and have been topping it off as the air bubbles burp out sporadically over the last few months, and currently have the fluid sitting up towards the top 9/10th of the hashed area when hot and running in Park. When I first start it and don't wait a good 2 or 3 minutes before changing into gear, it shifts hard as hell and thumps into gear. I also have experienced the engine having to stay in the 4K range for a good 5-10 seconds on flat ground while trying to hit the shift point that hits between 45-55 mph, and sometimes get some hard shifts when I gun it around 50 mph.

From what I read, this is characteristic of low fluid levels, but my dipstick says otherwise.

I also frequently have a noise comparable to wind blowing through trees when starting out (woooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooOOOOOOOOOoo, it sounds a lot like a loaded semi taking off from a stop) but it doesn't always go away when I start climbing the gears past 2nd, occasionally I've been going 65 on the freeway with fully-warmed fluid and still hearing this noise. There's also TC shudder (which, since it's 100+ out right now during the day, might just be temp-related) that happens sporadically(particularly when I'm facing downhill at a stop light and move after it goes green), and these are also symptoms of low fluid from what I've read.

If there are no volume differences between the pans (or the 4x2 vs 4x4 dipstick), does anybody know what might be going on here? I was already considering taking out the inline filter since I figure it's probably caught everything it's going to catch by now and might be slowing down the fluid return rate unnecessarily. Is there anything else I should have been doing? I am avoiding adding the "trans fix in a bottle" because that just band-aids or hides smaller complaints which might be pointing to bigger ones.


e: links point to the actual parts I bought and installed.

 

[Dirtman]

There is a very tiny difference in capacity between the 2wd and 4wd pan (about a quarter of a quart). However the dipsticks are the same anyway so if it says full, it's still full either way.

What fluid did you use?

More importantly, did you get a warranty with the rebuild because I'd be asking the shop who did the work to diagnose and fix the issue if it's a brand new rebuild.

 

[overloaded]

I used Mercon V, mostly Motorcraft brand but a couple quarts of STP and Supertech to top off.

There is a 1-year warranty on the rebuild, if taking that filter out doesn't remedy the issues then I'll be heading back to the shop to have them check things out. I mainly was hoping to get a reference point from someone on the pan/dipstick question and make sure I wasn't accidentally doing anything dumb first, or that it was definitely a problem that inline filters can cause.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Long shot but maybe that inline filter is restricting flow too much, maybe causing it to starve for fluid on the return?

 

[overloaded]

While this borders on thread necromancy, I hate it when a trouble thread never gets resolved.

I removed the inline filter, drained out/refilled the fluid from the trans cooler, and have been driving it some more - the symptoms have basically disappeared(it's 106 here currently, on hot-ass days it is less than perfectly smooth, cooler mornings it shifts smoothly).

Lesson learned, don't use inexpensive trans filters that lack an overpressure relief valve - spend a couple extra bucks and go for the remote-mount models that accept the screw-on kind if you're installing one.

I have an issue with the vapor system now, but that's an issue for another thread.

 

[pjtoledo]