Stone crusher steering system

[dirtcowboy]

Yup, that's all there is to them. They are still worlds better than the stock stuff. Worth every penny to me.

 

[spdcrazy]

thought about doing this setup as well. still not sure if i will or not tho. might do my own setup. got some idea's in mind. but it def won't be as clean as that!

 

[The_Dealer]

how much that run u?

 

[Shran]

how much that run u?

From their website, it looks like $295. I think a person could probably build it from scratch for around $170.

 

[dirtcowboy]

I got mine used but re-furbed from ThatGuy when he went SAS. I talked to Anthony at Stone Crusher and I think I was quoted $ 319.00 for all new custom fit. Anthony answers emails every day so give him a shout.

 

[The_Dealer]

wouldnt it work better to have a solid tie rod(no pivots in the middle) and have sort of a short draglink to connect to that and the pitman arm?

im trying to figure out what makes my tires go like this / \ when i park with the wheels turned

 

[4x4junkie]

im trying to figure out what makes my tires go like this / \ when i park with the wheels turned

If the ackerman angle is a little off (and it usually is), it can cause a small amount of jacking of the suspension while the wheels are turned. Nothing really to worry about. It's also possible you're just seeing the tires leaning due to the caster angle, which is only apparent when turned sharp.

 

[Shran]

wouldnt it work better to have a solid tie rod(no pivots in the middle) and have sort of a short draglink to connect to that and the pitman arm?

im trying to figure out what makes my tires go like this / \ when i park with the wheels turned

Wouldn't work at all with the TTB setup. What you said would be fine for a solid axle... but since the TTB pivots in the middle, the steering has to pivot as well.

 

[The_Dealer]

If the ackerman angle is a little off (and it usually is), it can cause a small amount of jacking of the suspension while the wheels are turned. Nothing really to worry about. It's also possible you're just seeing the tires leaning due to the caster angle, which is only apparent when turned sharp.

i was mistaking when i turn they go like this \ /, and i can hear my tires kinda slide when im pulling out of a driveway or onto a street

 

[4x4junkie]

I'm sure the Stonecrusher steering with it's longer links would reduce that to some extent by improving the ackerman at the wheels.

Another thing that helps is moving the front axle forward through shimming of the radius arm bushings. This changes the steering linkage geometry in relation to the knuckles in such a way as to improve the ackerman somewhat as well.

Again, it's not something all that detrimental though unless maybe you're doing a delivery service where you'd be making a lot of u-turns and what not.

 

[The_Dealer]

i might try the stonecrusher out, im still wanting to go jeep coils and see how i like that before i go SAS, hell i might even throw in this dam d35 thats always in my way and change the gearing in it

 

[99RangerKrazy]

I'm also thinking of going with the Stonecrusher setup so I don't waste a brand new set of tires...just not sure if I'm gonna have the time to install it (drilling the knuckles and pitman arm out).

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I'm sure the Stonecrusher steering with it's longer links would reduce that to some extent by improving the ackerman at the wheels.

Another thing that helps is moving the front axle forward through shimming of the radius arm bushings. This changes the steering linkage geometry in relation to the knuckles in such a way as to improve the ackerman somewhat as well.

Again, it's not something all that detrimental though unless maybe you're doing a delivery service where you'd be making a lot of u-turns and what not.

I was under the impression that Ackerman is built into the knuckle. I was told that is why it's best to get an axle/s from a vehicle as close to the same length as your original axle/s. Is this true?
Thanks,

Richard

 

[4x4junkie]

I was under the impression that Ackerman is built into the knuckle. I was told that is why it's best to get an axle/s from a vehicle as close to the same length as your original axle/s. Is this true?
Thanks,

Richard

A certain amount of ackerman is built into the knuckle, yes, but the angle at which the tierod is attached to it affects the behavior of it as well (effectively canceling out a portion of what's built into the knuckles). By pushing the axle forward, you're actually straightening out the linkage horizontally (looking from above), which preserves more of the angle that was originally built into the knuckles.

I've never seen the same axle with different amounts of ackerman built into it for different vehicles though (say, the D44 or 10-bolt front under a Suburban vs. a Blazer). I honestly don't think ackerman is as well-understood by the manufacturers as it should be either, as even today all too many cars I see making a sharp turn in a parking lot or cul-de-sac are usually pushing that outside front tire pretty hard in a sharp turn.

 

[bonedoc]

Definately well worth the money. I believe mine was about $345.00 delivered. It only took about an hour to put in. Just make sure you have a good 3/4" drill bit. WE pulled the pitman arm off to drill it also because it made it easier. Otherwise we then set it to factory specs on the alignment rack. I have to say it handles well, I don't have a steering stabilizer any more either. I'm currently running 31's. Just ordered 32'' BFG all terrains, putting on this week. Will be ordering and installing a James Duff 5.5" stage 3 kit by month's end. Will let you all know how that goes.