speedo not reading correctly?

[Shadowmeph]

I bought my 04 4.0sohc ranger 4x4 5-6 years ago and the speedo always shows me driving 10KM\h faster then I am at least on the highways I am not sure why this is .
also same truck manual trans I have a clunk and and really starting to think its coming from the transmission is there any ote3hrs that have this. I have checked everything I can think of also has mild noise 2-3 and 5th but with clutch engaged sound goes away . I know pilot bushing ion the older cars truck this was the issue but for me anything with a computer in and all those sensors I am not sure what it could be anymore

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

"Clunk" when changing gears is most likely from the Slip Joint on rear drive shaft, it needs to be lubed, not hard to do yourself
You have an M5OD-R1 manual transmission, used from 1988 to 2011 in Rangers, rarely has any problems
It does use ATF, automatic transmission fluid, NOT gear oil, make sure its topped up
There is a drain plug and fill plug on driver side


In 2004 you have a digital dash, called an HEC(hybrid electronic cluster)
Google: HEC dealer mode

Loads of info on things you can test and see

The speed sensor is on the transmission's output shaft called the OSS(output shaft speed) sensor, for 2WD or 4WD
This speed signal goes to the Computer(PCM)
The computer is programmed with tire size and rear axle ratio
The computer calculates the speed using that info and sends that out to the Speedometer
Tire size and rear axle ratio can be changed as needed but you need Ford software on a laptop or tablet to change it

I think Forscan software can be used for that

Just FYI, the computer changes speedometer signal when in 4Low to match gear ratio change in transfer case

 

[Shadowmeph]

Thank you
oh your talking about the stupid slipjoint I hate that thing I remember now I actually lubed it up a few years back and it quieted up I forgot about that until mentioned here.
I changed fluid using automatic fluid about two years ago bit of a pain to fill up is there any additive that can be used that is good?
I never heard of HEC dealer mode I watched someone on youtube just as I was typing this in doing something on a 07 f150 not sure if I can do the same on my 04 ranger will look into the software and plugin for my laptop or tablet

 

[Shadowmeph]

hmm it appears that this isnt on my truck I tried doing what the instructions say but nothing happens

 

[RonD]

2004 Ranger will have HEC if cab fuse box is in passenger side kick panel, SJB(smart junction box) and HEC were added at the same time in Rangers, first year was 2004
But I have read posts that say the "dealer" mode doesn't work on some year Rangers
If cab fuse box is on drivers side then you have a late 2003 and no HEC or SJB

Some people like synthetic ATF in the M5OD-R1, but as far as I know there is no additive for just ATF

 

[Shadowmeph]

I know that when vehicles are built earlier months they are call the previous year like it a vehicle is made before the 6th month the y would be considered the previous year I am not sure how Ford does this .yes fuse box is on pass side kick panel . ok.
maybe I have to re read how to do this and see if I can do it .
going to be cleaning the MAF and the ( never know what it is called) butterfly valve on the same air line maybe clean the idle control valve then replace the I think it is call evac control valve under the hood I have a strange idle fluctuating up and down with a mild once in a while miss at ide when engine is warm

 

[Orca]

hmm it appears that this isnt on my truck I tried doing what the instructions say but nothing happens

FWIW, I've updated my thread on "HEC Dealer Test Mode" with useful research and a conclusion. Basically, for Rangers, this test seems to only work with 2007-2011 models.

I doubt it would help much with your specific problem, but FORScan has an IC (Instrument Cluster) "On Demand Self-Test" that works on my 2004 Ranger. That might be worth a shot if you can run the Windows version of FORScan.

A dashboard speedometer reading a bit high is quite common. The answer to "Why?" and "How high?" depends on what you read and who you believe, but +10 km/hr seems a bit much, I'll admit.

BTW, welcome to the forums!

 

[Shadowmeph]

its all good I will just keep driving like I always do 10Km\h over lol now I having issues with front brake the caliper is only 4 years old and it seems to be sticking just slightly all brakes are new just replaced them last summer and they have low miles on them I probably average 80-120 Km max a week mostly highway driving ./ between that and the front of the engine having a slight rattle I am wondering if this is going to be the beginning of slowly replacing things until this drivetrain engine brakes are all new would be a new truck with a slightly starting to rust body hehe but I will probably buy a new caliper try and remember the size of the bleeder valve so I can grab some tubing to self bleed just thinking I should also but the front line as well . I have never self bled brakes before looks simple enough

 

[Shadowmeph]

I received my forscan today just charging up an old laptop I have laying around will take hours and will install the software . on my downtime tonight at work ( I work security and am in my truck ) I will plug it in and figure out how to use it .

 

[Shadowmeph]

FWIW, I've updated my thread on "HEC Dealer Test Mode" with useful research and a conclusion. Basically, for Rangers, this test seems to only work with 2007-2011 models.

I doubt it would help much with your specific problem, but FORScan has an IC (Instrument Cluster) "On Demand Self-Test" that works on my 2004 Ranger. That might be worth a shot if you can run the Windows version of FORScan.

A dashboard speedometer reading a bit high is quite common. The answer to "Why?" and "How high?" depends on what you read and who you believe, but +10 km/hr seems a bit much, I'll admit.

BTW, welcome to the forums!

so I ran forscan on my downtime at work and to be honest I wasnt sure what I was doing I just scanned everything that I could find lol came up with a few things but I was cautious I really dont want to accidently format something

 

[RonD]

Join here: https://forscan.org/forum/

Lots of helpful members there

 

[Orca]

[...] came up with a few things but I was cautious I really dont want to accidently format something

FORScan (especially the Windows version) is a powerful tool, so your caution is wise.

For example, many things (like resetting codes) should typically not be done when the engine is running. So I would not recommend clicking on things unless you have a decent idea of what you're trying to achieve.

The 1st time FORScan successfully connects to your vehicle, it will automatically perform a long series of commands to create a "profile" for that vehicle, so that it won't have to do that every time you connect. I assume that you had success there.

From that point on, every time FORScan connects to your vehicle, it will automatically report any DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) on all modules on your vehicle (which should include PCM, ABS, GEM, RCM, IC, and 4X4). That alone is a very useful capability to have, of course.

From there, it's pretty much up to you!

If you're looking to do the Instrument Cluster (IC) test that I mentioned, do it with the engine off (but the key on, of course). Then select the icon that looks like a clipboard with a pencil (on the left side). If the "Tests" tab is selected (along the top), you should see a line saying "IC On Demand Self-Test". Click that line, then click the icon in the lower left that looks like a "play" button on a VCR or DVD player. Read the warning that pops up and click "OK". That should run the test. Watch the dashboard of your truck -- lights will light up, gauges will sweep, etc. That's what I was referring to in my initial post. As I said, it probably won't help with your specific problem, but you can certainly give it a try. When the IC Self-Test is done, it should say "Test completed successfully, no errors found".

Beyond that, read up on the FORScan website or ask here if you're wanting to do other things. It's a bit outdated, but here's some suggested reading for the Windows FORScan version: Documentation on version 1.3.x

And +1 to RonD's recommendation to check the FORScan forums.

The FORScan user interface can take some getting used to. But you can view live data quite easily (with engine on or off), in any of 3 presentations, including "Oscilloscope" (graphs).

Of course, if you play around with FORScan for a long time without the engine running, you can wind up with a weak battery (and a corresponding trouble code for that on 1 or more modules)! Long-term experimentation with the engine off is best done while using a battery charger.

Good luck!