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Safari Pacific MX2 Build


RyanD2

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Looks great, I think the solid sides would be a nice look. Keep up the good work.
 


schanusa

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Thanks everyone! I'm leaning more to doing solid sides. A lot easier....
 

schanusa

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More updates....

Missed this photo. Its before the side panels were fitted. I aligned everything onto the new body mounts and welded the floor to the remaining cab parts.




Angle shot of the passenger side. Thats as strait as I can make it




Killing time while waiting for the metal to cool. Maybe just a bit to much time :D




Driver side panel installed same as the passenger.

 
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schanusa

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Removing the fuel filler off the old bed side.




Tracing the shape onto construction paper.




On the front side I press the construction paper into the groves. I cut the piece a bit crooked so I used the ridge to find a level point to measure.




Using the pattern I align the ridge to the body line and trace the edges.




Then I cut.

 
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schanusa

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Working slightly different from the body panels, I wedge pieces into the edges of the filler backing.




I clamp into place and check the alignment.




Now I weld in the same fashion as the body panels. The filler isn't in the best location, but there would of been a lot more work to move the whole thing. My fuel tank won't move back anymore due to the axle. So I have to work with what I have.

 
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bigpotato555

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Are you gonna put seat back there? where the tire gonna go?
 

dude772

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Is there enough space to put an explorer rear door upper half portion for a window? If you dont like having an actual window you could tint it so dark that no one could ever look in.

I think that it would look a million times better if you had a window in the back rather than it being solid in the back.
 

koda6966

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Almost reminds me of the South American four door rangers.. except with just two doors.
 

ZMan

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Is there enough space to put an explorer rear door upper half portion for a window? If you dont like having an actual window you could tint it so dark that no one could ever look in.

I think that it would look a million times better if you had a window in the back rather than it being solid in the back.
thats a pretty good idea
 

AgPete139

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Good job with the progress & the sheet metal bracing/line grooving/welding. You do good metal work. I think the Explorer idea mentioned above is cool. It's almost getting into that "explorer sport / SUV coupe" realm. Are you considering using the window actuators from the used doors and using those on the rear quarter windows? I'm wondering how you are going to do the lower body/cab rails... Also, I know it's kind of late, but did you consider removing the hump in the rear & evening the floor of the cab, or does the gas tank get in the way? Or will it make way for the 4x4 system you are gonna throw up there?

Good luck again with more of your build. Can't wait for more updates...:beer:


Pete


.
 

goldxlt

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the explorer window would be a neat idea because then you could lower the window for better ventalation.
 

86freebie

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awesome dude. and 10,000 kudos to anyone doing there own work. going to be great.
but "To drive around the world" get bigger tires. i know those wont float. :)
 

schanusa

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Is there enough space to put an explorer rear door upper half portion for a window? If you dont like having an actual window you could tint it so dark that no one could ever look in.

I think that it would look a million times better if you had a window in the back rather than it being solid in the back.
Great idea!!! Anyone have measurements?
 

schanusa

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Onto the roof...

Since I'll be creating a completely new roof section I'll need to meet the stock curve. To accomplish this I start with some scrap 3/4 inch plywood. I then measure the front section of the roof's curvature. From the measurements I create and ark on the plywood. Then I rough cut with a bandsaw and clean up with a belt sander.




Now I create a wooden frame to hold the arc molds in place and at the right hight.




Verifying the two pieces are the correct hight I place a strait metal bar across the gap.




Next I cut a piece of 20 gauge steel to fit into the gap. I cut 2 inches longer than I need to rough fit everything and slide it under the current roof sections




The roof is marked then cut to fit. As you can see from the additional line I messed up, luckily I caught it before I started to cut. Measure twice, cut once!!!

 
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