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Ranger new radiator trans fluid port blocked?!


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please reply soon because my truck is all taken apart and I'm not sure if I should install this new radiator or buy one from autozone.

I bought this radiator off ebay for like $80, more than half the price of autozone,

but where the trans fluid lines attach, the upper one has some sort of honeycomb filter (now that I'm writing this, maybe it's a beneficial filter?) and the bottom line isn't blocked totally but basically there's a plate or something that only allows about 1/8" space for the fluid to enter.
As shown, the OEM radiator has neither of these.
Should I install this?
2008 ranger 2WD 6 cyl 3.0 Liter.
ranger transmission fluid radiator port adapter thread screw (2).JPG
ranger transmission fluid radiator port adapter thread screw (4).JPG
ranger transmission fluid radiator port adapter thread screw (6).JPG
ranger transmission fluid radiator port adapter thread screw (7).JPG
 


pjtoledo

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can you blow thru it? poor fluid thru it?
 

scotts90ranger

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It is probably just a restrictor on the inlet or outlet (don't remember which is top and which is bottom...) to slow the fluid down through the cooler to help it work maybe? Some radiators are a double wall tube and others are a coil of tubing, I think stock is the coil, the double wall tube is probably less flow resistant so maybe they slowed it down?
 
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someone suggested see if I can pout distilled water in them, and it does flow in, i installed it anyway because need truck to work.

Some of the high end 3 layer all-aluminum ones on ebay (around $150, I got the $75 one but the $75 worked fine on my old 2000 ranger installed in about an hour no problem), second to last pic you can almost see what looks like the same honeycomb type thing in the hole.


But it doesn't matter now because now I have to run to autozone and pay $215 for theirs because these two fittings cross threaded my damn transmission lines! The first bottom one seemed to go in ok , total PITA to work in that tight area and of course the line wanted to twist with the nut when starting to remove, then the top one I noticed was cross threading, so I installed one of the two sets of adapters and it seemed to fit fine, then added a gallon of coolant and turned truck on with heater on ready to fill to top and noticed the lower transmission line was leaking bad, so now I'm just going to buy the autozone one. IDK how the preinstalled fitting would cross thread, i've installed tens/hundreds of thousands of bolts professionally etc and it seemed to be going fine but the stock fitting cross threaded and the only other adapter that was even close also cross threaded.
Might see if I can take these fittings off my old radiator, if not will buy AZ radiator.
 
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so i went to autozone at like 3am and got the Duralast Radiator C2310 for $215 and installed it and it all went smoothly as it should.

Luckily most of the stripping/cross threading happened to the female threads of the eBay radiator and not my transmission cooler lines because then I'd have to change them - they're flare nut and I don't have that tool and I don't think AZ rents that, and there might not be any slack if I cut them back for a new flare, and AZ doesn't even carry this part and the kit of them is like $150.

The female threads on the Duralast Radiator fit like a glove as they should I was even able to hand tighten them most of the way, there was definitely something up with the threading on the eBay radiator but they sell hundreds of these no problems.

I was thinking because the 3.0 6 cylinder is quite rare vs the 4.0, some parts aren't compatible (like the alternator I paid like 3X price for because the common one doesn't fit), so I was thinking maybe the 3.0 actually has different flare nut threading than the 4.0 and that the eBay sellers just assumed this radiator fits the 3.0.
But it turns out, on AZ's site if I change the truck to the 4.0 it still shows the Duralast Radiator C2310 as being compatible for both, so I'm baffled.

First time changing a thermostat, when coolant would get low with previous radiator it'd click/pop every few seconds when come to a stop, so I changed it and got the $4 paper gasket not the $17! one with the embedded red rubber gasket like the OEM, so as per most tutorials I used some red RTV high temp gasket maker paste I already had and didn't put much but it oozed around but only onto the outer rim of the thermostat and not to the actual component nor the tiny air jiggle pin which on this one is located inside the rim near the thermostat, the sealant had about 3.5 hours in 20 degree weather to set up but it still oozed quite a bit but I don't think it'll end up eaten away at by coolant and end up in the system possibly plugging something, but anyway first test drive I was getting hot air after car idling for about 10 minutes but temp gauge around 10% only, then drove 25 MPH and temp gauge was in middle as it should be at operating temperature but I was getting only cold air! But then ~8 minutes more driving and heat stayed on as it should so hopefully that's just a new thermostat needed to get broken in. I would have spent the $17 for the better gasket just to avoid any possible problems but didn't know about it until now.

Next, I'll idle the truck and hopefully the heat comes on so I can see if it didn't open on the initial coolant filling for the heater core section.


btw, swapping the fittings from the OEM radiator wouldn't have worked, the eBay ones are part of the grill etc and fixed.
 

SenorNoob

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Sounds like you have/had an air bubble in the cooling system...

I had a hard time getting the transmission lines to seal on a new radiator for an 04 Mustang. It was an Amazon special, with multiple inserts for different transmission lines on several applications. Wondering now if that is a common problem with "cheap" radiators.
 

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