pinion flange nut

[hr8882]

I have a 2002 ranger 2WD. 7.5 open differential axle code 86. Can you help me out and tell me the size of the nut on the rear pinion flange? Thanks!

 

[Dirtman]

Around this big [---------------------------------------------------]

 

[sgtsandman]

I'm completely pulling this from the top of my head since is been a good while since I've worked on a 7.5". I want to say the nut is either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4". If you can get an adjustable jaw wrench in there, adjust the jaws so it's snug on the flats and take it with you when you go to buy a socket. A set of calipers would even better but one sometimes has to work with what they got and most everyone has a crescent wrench.

 

[franklin2]

It can be difficult to get that nut loose without a impact. And take a center punch or some white out and mark the threaded end of the shaft and the nut so you can put it back exactly where it is now. I have done this many times and never had a problem. Never have replaced the crush sleeve.

 

[19Walt93]

If memory serves it's 1 1/16. When retightening the nut I don't mark threads, I set the preload where I want it, most often just a little tighter than it was. While you have it apart carefully inspect the seal surface on the pinion yoke, if it's rusted or scored it mat prevent a good seal. Replacing a scored yoke or putting a speedi-sleeve on it would prevent having to take it apart again.

 

[franklin2]

If memory serves it's 1 1/16. When retightening the nut I don't mark threads, I set the preload where I want it, most often just a little tighter than it was. While you have it apart carefully inspect the seal surface on the pinion yoke, if it's rusted or scored it mat prevent a good seal. Replacing a scored yoke or putting a speedi-sleeve on it would prevent having to take it apart again.

They do make speedi-sleeves for the 7.5 yoke? Do you know who sells them? Mine is grooved pretty bad and a complete new yoke is not cheap.

 

[Dirtman]

Most of the time speedi sleeves are sold by size not by application. You need precise measurements. McMaster sells them.

 

[19Walt93]

I buy them from Napa. Measure it with a micrometer, don't eyeball it. It might be worth checking the price on a new flange first.

 

[franklin2]

I buy them from Napa. Measure it with a micrometer, don't eyeball it. It might be worth checking the price on a new flange first.

I don't remember what a new flange/yoke costs, but I remember it was more than I wanted to pay. I looked pretty hard and didn't see a speedi-sleeve offered by the auto places, I didn't know they made speedi-sleeves like they make nuts and bolts. I will have to look into that. I went ahead and put the new seal on it, hoping it would possibly ride somewhere besides the groove. So far it's not leaking. China must have made the seal lip different enough to put it in a different spot on the yoke.

 

[19Walt93]

If you polished up the surface of the yoke it might work for a while. Keep an eye on it and keep your fingers crossed.

 

[vigness]

Reviving an old thread.

I don't remember what a new flange/yoke costs, but I remember it was more than I wanted to pay. I looked pretty hard and didn't see a speedi-sleeve offered by the auto places, I didn't know they made speedi-sleeves like they make nuts and bolts. I will have to look into that. I went ahead and put the new seal on it, hoping it would possibly ride somewhere besides the groove. So far it's not leaking. China must have made the seal lip different enough to put it in a different spot on the yoke.

Franklin, I have a leaky seal, and have seen several videos on the replacement. I have never actually done a pinion seal, so it's uncharted territory for me.

First bunch of videos go through backing off the brakes and taking torque measurements. These also usually involve flange replacement.

Second bunch of videos show marking and counting thread turns, then putting everything back as it was. Seal only replacement in these.

Doing it in the driveway, and not really wanting to mess with the drum brakes, how valid is the mark and count method for seal only replacement?

 

[franklin2]

Marking it always has worked for me. You can use white out, or you can take a center punch and ding the very end of the pinion shaft, and then right across from it put a ding on the nut. It's just a reference to get you back in the ballpark.

The most difficult part is loosening and then tightening the nut if you are doing it by hand, it's very tight. You usually need a cheater bar to get enough torque to get it loose. To get enough room to swing a cheater bar, you need to jack up the rear of the truck off the ground. But then when you do that, there is nothing to hold the rearend from turning. The parking brake won't do it. What I did once was get a thick piece of flat metal, and drilled two holes in the end to line up with the holes in the yoke. And then temp bolted this flat metal to the yoke, and let it swing around and hit the ground. That would hold it while I took the breaker bar with the cheater on it and broke the pinion nut loose. I have a impact gun now, so it's much easier to use it.

 

[vigness]

Getting it loose should not be a problem. I have a set of 8" I beams off the edge of the driveway I pull onto for working under the vehicles, and the truck is a 4x4 so that adds to the height. Have a good strong impact as well so I should be good either way.

I could see the torque method if you are replacing anything. I read the torque specs in a different post. I can go hunt them up if I have to put a new flange on it.

Thanks for the confirmation. All too many of the 'factory procedures' seem to be written to take up excess BILLABLE shop time at the dealership. Book says it should take an hour and a half to swap the vacuum hubs on my F-150, But I can do the first one in twenty five minutes, and the second at around twenty. And that includes pulling the tires!