Passenger front brake hose removal

[Jim Davis]

I've looked at my Haynes manual, my own Ranger, and several youtube videos, but cant quite see what I have to do to disconnect the inboard end of this line. I've got to replace it because the wheel end steel tube pulled out of the flexible section of the line.

Whatever I have to do, I expect it will be miserable because all the other brake work I have just finished was badly rusted.

 

[Josh B]

Are you using a backup wrench. Do you have a motor manual? Is it ABS ?

 

[Josh B]

If you could get a photo it could really help, especially if it's a clear close-up. I totally rebuilt my 93 front brakes, along with the discs and calipers but it's been several years now

 

[Jim Davis]

Are you using a backup wrench. Do you have a motor manual? Is it ABS ?

I Don't have a Motor Manual. Didn't know Motor was still publishing. Only have the near worthless Haynes. I will try to get some photos up. Maybe in the process the situation will become obvious to me.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Trying to remember... it's been awhile but I think that just comes through the spring tower and held there with a spring clip.

Getting the steel line from the rubber hose will be the tuff part. Chances are it is rusted and seized.

When I've done these in the past... I typically figure I'm replacing all the front lines.

 

[pjtoledo]

start with penetrating oil. I prefer the freeze type.
I'm a bit north of you, well entrenched in the rust belt, so standard procedure here is the steel line will be rusted solid in the nut.
even if the nut breaks free it usually twists the steel line off. if it does replace a portion of the steel line.
once the nut is removed pry the clip out. it is in a groove on the end of rubber line and wedges it against the bracket.

the frame end of the replacement hose has a weird shape. that will only go in one way. orients the hose so it will twist properly as the wheel turns.

 

[Jim Davis]

This truck spent its youth in Maine, so it has the kind of rust you are familiar with. Pix to come.

 

[ericbphoto]

Wait…..

Jim Davis? Creator of Garfield? We have a celebrity in our midst!

 

[Jim Davis]

Nope, there are a million of us named Jim Davis.

pjtoledo, thanks for the insight.

Here are some images of the brake line connection.

 

[ericbphoto]

Oh. You got it bad. In my humble opinion, replace hose and hard line. I believe you need to loosen the nut where the hard line joins the hose fitting on the back side of the spring bucket. The hose fitting is held in the bucket by a clip in a groove. But there’s so much rust there that it’s hard to see all that. Soak it with penetrating oil for a few days to loosen up the rust and be prepared to use tools like; hammer, chisel, sawzall, wrench and cheater bar, swear words, bandaids (rag and electrical tape is best) and bigger hammer.

 

[Uncle Gump]

After seeing those...

I'll stand by what I said... replace ALL the front lines all the way to the master cylinder.

Without a doubt you need to replace the driver rubber hose... and those steel lines will have the same issues as the passenger side.

It's not a super hard job... but I recommend getting a flaring tool to make your steel lines.

Whatever you choose to do... DO NOT attempt to splice line together with compression fittings.

You should also prepare yourself to replace all the lines (steel and rubber) on the rear of the vehicle. This is very common repair in the rust belt.

 

[Jim Davis]

Would it be taboo to cut a section out of the plastic inner fender skirting for access to the nut? I can get a 12mm line wrench on the nut as is, but there is no room to turn it.

Inboard of the bracket, the steel line looks good--hardly even discolored. As for the rear lines, I have replaced the left and right branches, but I'll have to look at the front-to-back line.

 

[ericbphoto]

It’s your truck. Cut anything you want. On the passenger side, it’s not too difficult to just remove the plastic inner fender temporarily. I think there is more stuff attached to the driver side.

 

[Jim Davis]

I'll check out the inner fender removal.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I wouldn't worry about trying to loosen anything on those old lines.

I would remove all of it with nothing more then a pair of side cutters... a screw driver and a hammer.

Don't waste any time with any of that old shit...