P1309 DTC & Aftermarket Camshaft Synchronizers

[JoshT]

Some of y'all may recall reading my post a few months ago about the POS 4.0L in my 99 Ranger that kept blowing head gaskets. Truck ran good except for that. Don't want to rehash the story, but got a used replacement engine from a donor truck and truck seems to be running good again for the most part except for this recurring trouble code.

P1309 = Misfire Hardware Monitor - CMP Misaligned, CKP/CMP Noise, PCM AICE Chip

Also showing the following as pending:
P0133 = O2 Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
P1131 = Lack Of HO2S11 Switches - Sensor Indicates Lean

Not worried about the latter pending codes at the moment just wanted to mention that they are there as well. They could even be related to the cause of the first stored code.

When we installed this engine in the truck, we just installed it complete from the donor vehicle. Can't comment on codes and stuff in the donor truck because there wasn't a battery in it when we went to check it out. We did put in a battery and hear it run and it sounded good, but being a wreck we couldn't drive it enough to trigger any codes. The engine we pulled out of the truck was not throwing any codes like this so, I swapped over the known good Camshaft Position Sensor and Crank Shaft Position sensors from it and reset the computer. Next time I drove the truck the code came back.

I'm figuring the next logical step is to pull the upper intake and replace the Camshaft Synchronizer. I could be really cheap and install the one from my old engine, but its got at least 230k miles on it. I'd also need to buy an alignment too kit for about $20 to get it positioned right. I'm seeing synchronizer, sensor, and alignment tool kits for sale through RockAuto for $30 - $50 made by World Power Systems, Spectra, and Standard Motor Products. At that price it kinda makes sense to just go all new if these aftermarket units are any good. Otherwise, I'll be buying the alignment tool kit and installing the one from the old engine, cause I'm not going to drop near $200 on a just a synchronizer without trying the old one first.

If Camshaft Synchronizer doesn't fix it, the next likely culprit seems to be the PCM and that is a nightmare I really don't want to deal with.

So what ya think, is there something else simple I could be missing that would cause this? Are the aftermarket camshaft synchronizers any good?

 

[RonD]

1999 Ranger 4.0l should use a 2 wire cam sensor, pull the connector and have a look at the pins, make sure they are clean.

Computer can use these codes if Cam sensor is the problem:
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent

And it didn't
So cam sensor is not the issue, specifically
P1309 usually means the crank sensor and cam sensor are not BOTH IDing #1 TDC at the same time so computer can't ID a misfire to a specific cylinder

Crank sensor is the main one, so its assumed correct by the computer or engine will not start
The cam sensor has more "resolution", it turns at 1/2 the speed of the crank, so it can ID each cylinder as it fires
So how did you time the cam sensor?

 

[JoshT]

So how did you time the cam sensor?

I didn't. I didn't touch the timing adjustment for the cam sensor. I simply reached around the intake and unbolted the cam sensor from the synchronizer and replaced it with a known good one.

Given the code I figured the quickest, easiest, and cheapest thing to do is swap those two sensors (not the synchronizer, just the sensor) for known good units I had.

Since those didn't fix it I am now looking into synchronizer adjustment. I've still got to get the adjustment tool. I know it can probably be done without, but I'd rather be lazy and get the tool. Since intake has to be pulled I'm considering buying the cam synchronizer kit with tool and replacing the whole unit.

 

[RonD]

And the replacement engine/synchro was a 1999/2000 they were the only ones with 2 wire cam sensors
1990-1998 use 3 wire sensor and synchro, which are different inside

 

[JoshT]

...and this is starting to feel insulting. I would have thought it obvious that those things had been checked since I've already swapped out the sensors as mentioned in the first post.

My truck a 1999 Ford Ranger 4.0L with 2 wire sensor.

Donor truck was a 2000 Ford Ranger 4.0L with 2 wire sensor.

I think I can compare two sensors and their respective connectors to make sure that they match. Not exactly new to these trucks, or the forum even if I don't visit much anymore, just new to this code.

Back to the questions. Are the aftermarket cam synchronizers a waste of money? Is there anything else easy to check before I start pulling the upper intake to adjust/replace the synchronizer?

 

[RonD]

Not trying be insulting, I also ask if there is gasoline in the tank, and did you check, and if firing order has been checked.................3 times, not once or twice, 3 times

When you have been working on vehicles, like you have, for many years, its the assumptions that tend to bite you in the A$$, not a lack of knowledge

Never read a complaint about 3rd party cam sensors or synchros, only 3rd party IAC Valve and TPS seem to be issues

 

[JoshT]

Its all good. Those of us that have been working on stuff for many years also forget that whats obvious to us isn't to everybody, and get frustrated for no reason when being told the obvious. Happens to me at work too, been working on air planes (F-15) for 15 years, got moved to a new section (C-130) and proceed to get treated like the new guy by people with 1-2 years in the field. Ok it's a new airplane to me, I might not know their jargon, but I don't need to be taught how to torque a bolt, install safety wire, or read a technical order. If those new guys would use proper nomenclature and/or point me in the right direction and get out of the way, they might learn a thing or two. Anyway, back to the regularly scheduled programming...

There is gas in the tank, well at least there is better than 1/2 tank according to the gas gauge. Definitely has gas, but I'm not going to try to calculate if the gauge is correct.

Firing order I'm 90% certain on. Will double check next time I'm under the hood. IIRC I did change plugs before putting the engine in because it's a lot easier to get to them. I think I also transferred plug wires from old engine since they were pretty new so almost certain that I got them right, but will double check.

I'm fairly certain even before posting that the issue is the cam synchro being out of alignment. The cam sensor I pulled off the "new" engine was aftermarket and it wouldn't surprise me if PO changed the whole assembly and didn't align it correctly. The sensor on my old engine was still motorcraft and I've had the truck since about 90k miles, so pretty sure its the stock unit. I wouldn't bother with changing it, but my "old" synchro has somewhere around 230k miles and the new one is an unknown. Got to spend around $20 for the alignment tool kit. Why no throw in a little extra and get a new synchronizer and sensor with the tool for peace of mind. Not to mention that RockAuto has one for $22 with the tool on closeout right now. Never mind someone beat me to it, should have just bought it earlier when I saw it.

 

[JoshT]

...I might not know their jargon, but I don't need to be taught how to torque a bolt, install safety wire, or read a technical order. If those new guys would use proper nomenclature and/or point me in the right direction and get out of the way, they might learn a thing or two.

RonD, after rereading that I feel I owe you an apology. I got sidetracked and was literally referring to people I work with there. I appreciate your help and was not referring to you or anyone else reading this thread, unless people I currently work with are reading this thread.

 

[JoshT]

its the assumptions that tend to bite you in the A$$

Ok RonD, I just finished up installing the new synchronizer and sensor, and I think one of those might have happened.

So lying under the truck spinning the crank to TDC I can't reach the spark plug port to feel if its building compression. Only place I can spin the engine from is under the truck so I can't exactly pull the valve cover and watch it either. Figured I'd be smart and use a hose from my compression tester (w/ valve core removed) to get it down to where I could feel for compression. Kept spinning, but never did. Not surprising considering how slow it's turning and how little swing I get. Next time around I got the bright idea to feel for vacuum on intake stroke because the next TDC would be compression. (You can probably see where this is going already.) Got vacuum, lined up on TDC, installed new Synchronizer kit, and put everything back together.

As I'm reinstalling the intake tube it dawns on me that what I assumed was vacuum on intake stroke, may instead have been on combustion stroke. Intake stroke has intake valve open so it would have been pulling air in there rather than creating a vacuum on my finger, while on compression stroke the valves would be closed so it would be more likely to create vacuum.

So everything back together, fire up truck and it starts no problem, but I immediately get a generic pending code "P0340". Drive around the block to warm up, park and restart the truck it's now a stored code, but at this point its the only code. Whats more likely:

Synchronizer 180 degrees out

Bad Sensor out of the box

Something I haven't even considered


BTW, I did check the gas and firing order. Confirmed to both have gas and be correct firing order.

 

[RonD]

P0340 can be the sensor itself or the Computer's internal circuit

This is a CIRCUIT malfunction, so wiring, sensor or computer
Not a timing issue, a no signal issue

In the case of a 2 wire cam sensor you can check if it has AC Volts on the two wires when engine is cranking or running
Use sewing pins to pierce the wires and set Volt meter to AC Volts, should see .5vAC cranking and maybe 2vAC running at idle

If sensor is working then its most likely a computer fault

 

[JoshT]

Ok so I probably have got it timed right, or something more serious needs to be fixed before it shows timed wrong.

That sounds like it might have to wait until next weekend when I can get it into the shop at my parents house. I don't have sewing needles and sounds like an extra set of hands would be nice.

Sounds like we've got more bad weather coming this week on top of what we've had for over a month, roads are already bad and getting worse with every passing storm system. Not worried about rain in the car, but I'm talking about washed out and flooded roads. So...

Since the truck seems to be running and driving ok (not right, but ok) would it be safe to drive this truck into work if I needed to? It's about a 60 mile round trip?

If not hopefully the weather will hold off long enough that I can fix the power steering on the 68.

 

[JoshT]

P0340 can be the sensor itself or the Computer's internal circuit

This is a CIRCUIT malfunction, so wiring, sensor or computer
Not a timing issue, a no signal issue

In the case of a 2 wire cam sensor you can check if it has AC Volts on the two wires when engine is cranking or running
Use sewing pins to pierce the wires and set Volt meter to AC Volts, should see .5vAC cranking and maybe 2vAC running at idle

If sensor is working then its most likely a computer fault

Ok with an extra set of hands I tried that test today, 0vAC henc craning and running. So that suggests sensor right?

That was the "new" sensor that came with the new synchro. I'm going to reinstall the sensor that was running good on the original engine and see what happens.

Also while sensor is and have an extra pair of hands, we put the engine back to TCD compression stroke to check timing of the synchro. I messed it up, the tab is 180 off from being lined up with the window.

EDIT: Upon closer inspection of the "new" sensor, one of the pins was bent. Probably happened when I installed it.

 

[JoshT]

30 miles later, still no cam codes. I think that's fixed.

O2 sensor code did return, but I didn't write down which one it was, but I think the P0133 that I mentioned in the OP.

Main concern seems to be fixed, O2 sensor is fairly minor and I'll get it fixed soon enough.

 

[RonD]

So the new Cam sensor fixed it or bending the pin back straight?

Or the 180deg out fixed it?

 

[JoshT]

D) All of the above ???

I think a couple of different problems occurred since start of this.

Original problem, caused the P1309 code through post 8, was the synchronizer out of time. Probably could have been fixed by simply re-timing the synchronizer that was in the truck, but since I was going through the work to fix it I felt it was prudent to install a new one. Personal decision, not a must have.

Second problem that caused the P0340 seems to have been my fault. Performed the test you suggested in post 10 and was getting 0vAC out of the sensor. Based on your statement I assumed that meant bad sensor, so I swapped out with sensor that was original to my truck. It read as you suggested and code didn't return. After getting a working cam sensor with no codes, dad happened to pick up the "new" sensor and noticed the bent pin. So truck is currently running its original cam sensor and "new" sensor is sitting in the glove box with the pin straightened just in case.

If the cam sensor had been working properly I think I would have gotten P1309 again instead of the P0340. While I had the sensor off to fix the P0340 and an extra set of hands to find TDC #1 I checked the timing of the synchronizer again. When I installed the new one I managed to land on 180 degrees out, so fixed that before reinstalling the sensor.

So in a manner of speaking, all of the above.