Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and rg2200
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- Joined
- Apr 15, 2013
- Messages
- 15
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- Vehicle Year
- 2005
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Transmission
- Manual
2 weeks ago I traded a 1993 Mazda B2200 (that I put a 5.0 V8 with megasquirt DIY engine management computer that I built myself from a kit, T5 5-speed, black/grey full tweed interior, new paint, tons of upgrades) for a 2005 Ranger Edge 2WD 3.0L, 5-speed, alarm, keyless entry, manual windows, no A/C, with 112,000KM (70,000 miles) on it.
People on the Mazda forum say I got the short end of that stick, with the amount of time, effort and $ I put into the Mazda, but I was at the point where I was bored with it, and actually didn't really like driving it any more - it was very fast, but also very scary to drive, and it had you on edge every time you'd drive it.
The Previous Owner said he had a bearing or rod noise above 4,000 RPM, so he swapped engines with one from a 2006. The MIL was on, engine temp gauge didn't work, and the front rotors were badly warped - I figured I would be able to resolve the problems pretty easily (I hoped).
I pulled the codes and got one for the MAF, two for the EVAP system. The PO had left the 2006 harness on engine and tried to match it to the 2005 wiring etc. After some research, I'm starting to doubt that it was a 2006 Ranger 3.0L (with 96,000KM) that he used because the MAF wires were ALL different colors than the MAF that he had in there (which is the stock 2005 MAF). Luckily, he included the original engine (with pretty much everything with it except the alternator), so I had the original wiring. Long story short, I put the original harness back in - which meant resoldering and heat shrink tubing the MAF wires, plus when he removed the original engine he cut the wiring for injector 5, broke one wire to the IAC, and somehow intentionally wired 2 of the O2 sensors together (something about the 2006 only having 3 O2 sensors - BS!).
So, after most of the day Saturday I got it running again and no codes (well, it didn't stay running at first because of the broken IAC wire, which was snapped off right at the connector, so I had to cut the connector from the wiring harness I took off to get that sorted out.) I replaced the front rotors (wow, they're expensive - partly because the rotors and hubs are all in one, not like the 4WD models) and pads and now it's driving great. I realized that the knock sensor isn't hooked up (he cut the wiring for that, but cut it in a way that it wasn't obvious when I inspected the wiring harness, so I'll have to pull that off the old harness and wire it in.
I pulled the water temp sensor from the original engine and put it on the one in the truck and that resolved the temp gauge problem.
The PO seemed capable mechanically, but I think he was a little lost when it came to the electrical/electronics/wiring.
Anyway, glad to be on the forum, and glad I was able to resolve the problems with the truck reasonably easily. One of the bonuses of owner a Ranger is that there's so many of them out there (and so many other vehicles with the 3.0L V6, parts should be plentiful.)
I'd like to put power windows in - preferably not aftermarket (which I did on my Mazda) - what donor vehicles will work (ranger, Mazda B-series, Explorer?) and how much work is it (what wiring harnesses are needed and is the base wiring for the power windows already in/under the dash etc.?
People on the Mazda forum say I got the short end of that stick, with the amount of time, effort and $ I put into the Mazda, but I was at the point where I was bored with it, and actually didn't really like driving it any more - it was very fast, but also very scary to drive, and it had you on edge every time you'd drive it.
The Previous Owner said he had a bearing or rod noise above 4,000 RPM, so he swapped engines with one from a 2006. The MIL was on, engine temp gauge didn't work, and the front rotors were badly warped - I figured I would be able to resolve the problems pretty easily (I hoped).
I pulled the codes and got one for the MAF, two for the EVAP system. The PO had left the 2006 harness on engine and tried to match it to the 2005 wiring etc. After some research, I'm starting to doubt that it was a 2006 Ranger 3.0L (with 96,000KM) that he used because the MAF wires were ALL different colors than the MAF that he had in there (which is the stock 2005 MAF). Luckily, he included the original engine (with pretty much everything with it except the alternator), so I had the original wiring. Long story short, I put the original harness back in - which meant resoldering and heat shrink tubing the MAF wires, plus when he removed the original engine he cut the wiring for injector 5, broke one wire to the IAC, and somehow intentionally wired 2 of the O2 sensors together (something about the 2006 only having 3 O2 sensors - BS!).
So, after most of the day Saturday I got it running again and no codes (well, it didn't stay running at first because of the broken IAC wire, which was snapped off right at the connector, so I had to cut the connector from the wiring harness I took off to get that sorted out.) I replaced the front rotors (wow, they're expensive - partly because the rotors and hubs are all in one, not like the 4WD models) and pads and now it's driving great. I realized that the knock sensor isn't hooked up (he cut the wiring for that, but cut it in a way that it wasn't obvious when I inspected the wiring harness, so I'll have to pull that off the old harness and wire it in.
I pulled the water temp sensor from the original engine and put it on the one in the truck and that resolved the temp gauge problem.
The PO seemed capable mechanically, but I think he was a little lost when it came to the electrical/electronics/wiring.
Anyway, glad to be on the forum, and glad I was able to resolve the problems with the truck reasonably easily. One of the bonuses of owner a Ranger is that there's so many of them out there (and so many other vehicles with the 3.0L V6, parts should be plentiful.)
I'd like to put power windows in - preferably not aftermarket (which I did on my Mazda) - what donor vehicles will work (ranger, Mazda B-series, Explorer?) and how much work is it (what wiring harnesses are needed and is the base wiring for the power windows already in/under the dash etc.?
