need help with p1537 code please

[eric]

check engine light is on and code says p1537. I believe that is the IMRC. I ran the truck for a while without changing plugs and when I did , they were pretty worn out. Would this cause excess carbon build up in the manifold that can be cleaned out with brake cleaner? I was thinking of spraying out whole manifold including sensors to see if that fixes problem. Mechanic did look for vacuum leaks and could not find any.

Your thoughts please

thanks in advance

 

[aogden001]

Whay year are we discussing ???

 

[eric]

a 2001 ford ranger 2/3 liter 4 cylinder. thnaks

 

[aogden001]

The IMRC actuator is located on the drivers side of the engine. 2 vacuum hose & 2 wires. At around 75000 miles on my '02 the acctuator rusted enough that it fell apart. Dealer gets $175.00 fro a new 1. Try search, the IMRC has been covered a few times. It is covered on youtube as well.

 

[eric]

I had sprayed throttle body cleaner into the IMRC from the MAF with engine running and notice much improvement. There appear to be 2 sensors for the IMRC and 1 for IRC OR IMC? (SPELLING).

WHAT should I do to test sensors? Or should I replace actuator as you suggest?

Thanks much

 

[aogden001]

Go to youtube and search for "IMRC" there is a decent video concerning what causes code P1357 to trigger.

 

[shyster666]

ok I had the same problem, and it says check bank 1! well bank one translates into the upper o2 sensor, I replaced that and it cleared the code, but then another code popped up for a vacuum leak. I fixed it and there is no problems. so you should check underneath, driverside, back of the engine, for the vacuum hose. Also the IMRC sometimes theres a clip that hold this flap in th intake that come off so check into that as well.

 

[rat_ranger]

look under the center bottom of the intake manifold. follow the vaccuum line that comes out to the actuator. then follow the line from the actuator to the vaccuum source. if eithr of these are damaged replace tham and it should clear the code. The one most likely to break is the one going from the actuator to the vaccuum source as it has a sharp 180degree bend in it. check those first as its a $2 fix if thats all it is.