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Need help with dana 35 rear axle


Maxsevich

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Hi!
Need help, I have a 1994 Mazda B3000, with Dana 35 axles.
When I serviced the rear axle (replaced the axle oil seals), I found that the cross pin was some play in the carrier. This is all stock, mileage 120,000 miles



You see how he plays in the video. Then I turn the cross to 180 degrees, and the "playing" practically disappears. So, the question is - can I assemble the differential with turned (rotated) cross pin, like a photo below?

thanks)
 
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First off, your rear axle is probably a Ford 7.5", not a Dana 35. You'll need to know this to buy parts.

Second, you could try running it with the pin rotated 180 degrees. But, I think you're much better off getting a new pin. It's hard to tell from your videos, exactly what is going on here and what is worn and producing the play. Have you pulled the pin to check it for wear in the locations where the gears ride on it?
 

Maxsevich

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First off, your rear axle is probably a Ford 7.5", not a Dana 35. You'll need to know this to buy parts.

Second, you could try running it with the pin rotated 180 degrees. But, I think you're much better off getting a new pin. It's hard to tell from your videos, exactly what is going on here and what is worn and producing the play. Have you pulled the pin to check it for wear in the locations where the gears ride on it?
understood, I will try to do this, and if necessary, I will buy a new one .. it will work there with non notched pin?
 

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I would get an OEM specification pin for your truck. i believe the 7.5 is like the 8.8 in that there is a cross bolt that retains the pin so your differential doesn’t fall apart. Deviating from that could end up getting more expensive than just the cost of the proper pin.
 

Maxsevich

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I would get an OEM specification pin for your truck. i believe the 7.5 is like the 8.8 in that there is a cross bolt that retains the pin so your differential doesn’t fall apart. Deviating from that could end up getting more expensive than just the cost of the proper pin.
okay)
thank you very much)
it's a very rare car from my country, and want to save her life a long as I can)
 

pjtoledo

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I would measure the hole for out-of-round first.
the purpose of the notch is because a full round pin will hit the gear during installation or removal.
the notch is not important during driving.


for reference, the 7.5" rear axle in my 2005 Ranger has 367,000 miles /595,000 km, it still has all the factory parts.
 

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OK, this is a Ford 7.5" from a 1999 Ranger with a 4.10:1 gear ratio. it does have some play at the pin, the pin itself has no wear.
depending on the gear ratio the pin may, or may not come out.

with the 4.10 the pin does not come out unless a tooth is ground for clearance, or the ring gear is removed.
you cannot even get both spider gears out until the ring gear is removed.

in the first pic the pin is out as far as the notch allows, it is still inside the spider gear.
the second pic is the non-notched end of the pin showing the interference.

63318


63319
 

Maxsevich

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OK, this is a Ford 7.5" from a 1999 Ranger with a 4.10:1 gear ratio. it does have some play at the pin, the pin itself has no wear.
depending on the gear ratio the pin may, or may not come out.

with the 4.10 the pin does not come out unless a tooth is ground for clearance, or the ring gear is removed.
you cannot even get both spider gears out until the ring gear is removed.

in the first pic the pin is out as far as the notch allows, it is still inside the spider gear.
the second pic is the non-notched end of the pin showing the interference.

View attachment 63318

View attachment 63319
are you saying that I have no cause for concern?
(my B3000 is 1994)
u mean the little playing is not bad? (if pin no wear)
 
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holyford86

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are you saying that I have no cause for concern?
(my B3000 is 1994)
u mean the little playing is not bad? (if pin no wear)
they can have a little slop in them but as long as there is no visible wear you should be good to go.
 

Maxsevich

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they can have a little slop in them but as long as there is no visible wear you should be good to go.
okay, I expect the pin about visible wear. Last time I don't see any wear..
Thank you =)

It's a big problem to find any information in Ukraine) Serviceman's don't see this type of vehicle 😅
(sorry for my eng)
 

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Your English is better than many here who have English as their first language.

The important thing is we understand what you are asking and commenting on. That is all that matters.
 

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@Maxsevich

Can we get a picture of the differential cover? - Ukraine truck might have different parts than those in America, and we don't want to give you bad advice.

The c-clips for the axles are locked into place by the cross pin, that would be my question - if you rotate the pin 180*, does it still retain the c-clips for both axles. In theory, it should. But practise and theory are often different. Losing an axle because of c clip failure is embarrassing at best.

As you have it part way apart, I'd measure hole with micrometer - if its out of round, you want to get it fixed before it is catastrophic.
 

Maxsevich

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@Maxsevich

Can we get a picture of the differential cover? - Ukraine truck might have different parts than those in America, and we don't want to give you bad advice.

The c-clips for the axles are locked into place by the cross pin, that would be my question - if you rotate the pin 180*, does it still retain the c-clips for both axles. In theory, it should. But practise and theory are often different. Losing an axle because of c clip failure is embarrassing at best.

As you have it part way apart, I'd measure hole with micrometer - if its out of round, you want to get it fixed before it is catastrophic.
The situation you described is impossible. The C-clip does not touch the pinion shaft , the ends of the axles "touch" the pinion The position of pinion will not affect this in any way.
 

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