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My New House & Workshop


ericbphoto

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Good sized toggle bolts into the hollows of the block would work. But I thought you built a great big wooden header across the top. I would lag screw into that.
 


Uncle Gump

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Good sized toggle bolts into the hollows of the block would work. But I thought you built a great big wooden header across the top. I would lag screw into that.
The track has to extend way past that header. It will need to be attached at least partially on the block. But the togglebolt would work.
 

franklin2

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The track bolts directly to the cinder block. That way it's close to the building and the door is close to the building. Of course if you want to space the track away from the cinder block, you could let your wooden jambs around the opening stick out beyond the building and then the door would be tight with very little cracks when it was shut, but give you some clearance to the building when you opened it. There is always a way to make it work out. Many ways to do it.
 

scotts90ranger

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The toggle bolts would probably be the way to go to the cinder blocks, it's pretty much in pure shear putting the concrete in compression mostly which it can take best... engineer mind process stuff... a bolt running all the way through the blocks with a say 6"x6" plate (probably overkill but it needs something bigger than a normal washer) would be better but I don't know how much better...
 

Jim Oaks

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Having gaps around the door and sealing them was my other concern.
 

Uncle Gump

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Gaps are just gonna be part of it...

Four eye bolts and two turnbuckles will pull the door as tight to the wall as you will ever get.
 

franklin2

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Having gaps around the door and sealing them was my other concern.
You can leave the door jamb surround to the last after the door is hung. You can then measure and butt the jamb up tight against the door. The door will lightly rub against what you put up to seal it, but it's nothing a little shove won't overcome.
 

scotts90ranger

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To keep the door tight when it's closed, I would use one or two of THESE, one on each end would do. My boss has that setup on his barn/shop and they work nice...
 

Ranger850

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I'm not sure I would want those hollow cinder blocks holding any significant weight. Drilling holes for tap cons can weaken the structure and can cause cracks. I do like the ide of the wooden header holding the weight of the doors and tap cons into brick on the ends should be OK as long as MOST of the weight is on the header. Toggles through the header 18"-24" apart should be enough to hold all the weight, but you want the ends to be attached as well.
 

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33x12.50x15
WTH?

I would have sworn I updated this.

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I built these doors out of 2x4's, 2x6's, plywood and some 1x's. I couldn't find any used windows so I made my own out of plexiglass.

I didn't put handles on the outside because I only wanted to be able to open it from the inside.

The original front door was a smooth solid wood door, but part of it was rotted. When I replaced it with a new door I kept the old door, cut off the rotted end, and made a work bench out of it.

The work bench is mostly made of the old door and the 2x4's I used to support the toof when I raised the rafters.but

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I used an old plastic storage cabinet and pained it black, and built the workbench tall enough to go over it. I also made some small shelves on the end to store lubricats and other spray cans to keep them handy.

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The vice and soll came from Harbor Freight. I hung a 4x8 sheep of pegboard up over the workbench to keep some tools handy.

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Above you can see where I mounted the TRS Banners Across America on the wall.

Below I found someone giving away a lateral file cabinet on Facebook marketplace, pained it black, and use it for tool storage.

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Below I hung up some BFGoodrich and Ford Ranger posters I had.

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I filled in all of the gaps and cracks in the mortar and painted the walls white. I still need to hang new dryway on the raised part of the ceiling and finish the electrical.

Check out this video:



 

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RobbieD

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That turned out nice. Like the doors.
 

rumblecloud

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Looks really good. Amazing what you can do given the time and patience.
My wife scoffed at the idea of painting my shop white - haven't done it yet but this summer...
White just brightens everything up.
Really nice work.
 

Blmpkn

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Awesome! I like the DIY doors.
 

Roert42

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Looks really good. Amazing what you can do given the time and patience.
My wife scoffed at the idea of painting my shop white - haven't done it yet but this summer...
White just brightens everything up.
Really nice work.

It shows the dirt easier, but also reflects the light so much it does brighten the space.

Just went from having dark color living to off white, it was very surprising how much brighter the whole room is. Can actually seen the tumble weeds of dog fur in the corners now.
 

ericbphoto

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1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
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3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Looks great! We'll done.
 

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