My New House & Workshop

[ericbphoto]

Code here is that each plug in a duplex outlet in the kitchen can only share with another plug of a different duplex outlet in the kitchen
So the upper and lower plugin are on different breakers in the one duplex outlet

So if coffee maker and toaster are both plugged into one duplex outlet they are on different breakers

The frig should not be on any kitchen counter plug circuits

Thats a cool idea. Not code in most of the US. But not a bad idea to implement.

 

[sgtsandman]

With all the appliances there are in a kitchen now days, it might be a good idea to have a circuit breaker for each outlet anymore....

 

[ericbphoto]

With all the appliances there are in a kitchen now days, it might be a good idea to have a circuit breaker for each outlet anymore....

I wired my parent’s house when they built. Dont remember how many circuits I used in the kitchen. But with more than 20 years in that house, they never tripped a breaker for a kitchen circuit.

I also installed four outlets divided between two 20amp circuits in the master bathroom. Never tripped a breaker there either. If you had seen what all mom had plugged in, you would swear she was trying to trip one.

Of course, my labor was free on that job. All they paid for was materials.

 

[racsan]

the house im at is a electrical mess, 1/2 the downstairs outlets are on 1 breaker, If we buy this place Im starting from scratch. I already fixed the plumbing on my own dime, but at least I know it was done right, Need to do something about the insulation or ductwork. cant get it over 65 in here on the furnace alone, and I removed the upstairs from the heating plenum. Furnace was new a year ago, this fall I taped all the joints and removed a 20’ 6” pipe going to the front porch (thats unused during the winter) my biggest heat loss I know of is the breezeway between house and garage. It has to be heated because thats where the water heater, softner and washer/dryer are. Whoever put the softner in just had the drain going outside under the gravel so twice this year its froze up and softner wont drain. I guess last winter it wasnt cold enough to freeze the drain line up. And theres no gutters either, that flatbed I bought is up against the house by the basement access so that the roof runoff hits it and goes 7ff away instead of the ground right beside the house and into the basement. I actually needed a trailer last weekend and took boat off boat trailer instead and used it.

 

[Jim Oaks]

I finally got someone to come out and give me a quote to convert this 20x70 building in to a garage.

$50,000

That's tearing the roof off, adding I think another 3 rows of block, building a new roof, and adding a garage door. I think he said $15,000 was just demo of the old roof.

But for $24,000 the guy could build me a 20x24 steel building next to it.

So, it looks like it might make more sense to add a building and maybe connect it to the old one.

 

[RonD]

"A" garage door, you need at least 3 garage doors on that building, minimum

$15k to demo the roof, its a concrete block building, gallon of gas and a match

$50k is $35sq/ft for a 20x70 building, with I assume 8 or 10ft ceiling, just seems high for a rebuild, but not that bad, for what would basically be a new building

The new steel building is $50sq/ft

I think the larger rebuild is a better deal long term

You can NEVER have too many electrical outlets or too many sq/ft, just can't happen, lol
Things that are never said
"Oh I wish there wasn't an outlet here"
"Oh I wish I didn't have a place to put this"

 

[franklin2]

View attachment 58539​

I finally got someone to come out and give me a quote to convert this 20x70 building in to a garage.

$50,000

That's tearing the roof off, adding I think another 3 rows of block, building a new roof, and adding a garage door. I think he said $15,000 was just demo of the old roof.

But for $24,000 the guy could build me a 20x24 steel building next to it.

So, it looks like it might make more sense to add a building and maybe connect it to the old one.

Would it save much to not add the 3 rows of block? You could get cathedral truss and set them on the top of what you have and gain plenty of roof height. It would make that building look better also with a steeper roof line. Put your garage door right in the middle of the peak of the roof for clearance for a lift.

 

[Jim Oaks]

I asked about gaining ceiling height from the trusses. I asked about the various ways to accomplish it.

It's been hard to get anyone to come out. One guy was so booked he couldn't even come out to give me a quote for 6-months.

I've contacted (2) metal building builders for more quotes. $24k for a 20x22 building seems high.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Would it save much to not add the 3 rows of block? You could get cathedral truss and set them on the top of what you have and gain plenty of roof height. It would make that building look better also with a steeper roof line. Put your garage door right in the middle of the peak of the roof for clearance for a lift.

Apparently the block wasn't that expensive. It's the demo and building the new roof and trusses.

 

[Rick W]

@Jim Oaks

(1) can you do a quick sketch of the whole property as if looking down? Show driveways/pads too. Doesn’t have to be real accurate, with 6’ or so.

(2) can you send a picture looking up from the inside: is it all one structure with consistent rafter/trusses, or was it added onto? If latter, take a pic of each section and indicate on the drawing where the transitions are.

(3). Who’s the managing government over construction my you (city, county or ???)

Get me that info and I might have some suggestions. Usually you can do a ton of work on your own property with a homeowner’s permit, and then hire the labor for different steps, and the inspections are typically rubber stamps if you smoke at the inspectors and they know you’re going to keep living there (as opposed to flippers).

I’ll plant a seed and say an obstacle might be asbestos in the wallboard, mud or ??? We could chat about that offline. It’s not a problem until you touch it the wrong way...

 

[Shran]

If he quoted 50k, he doesn't want the job.

However things are quite a bit more expensive than they were a year or two ago. I paid something like $5-6 each for 2x6x10 lumber when I built my shop 5 years ago... that same board right now is $17!!!!!!!!!!!!

I know I paid around $95/truss for my roof, the same ones are almost $200 each. Looking at Menards, looks like you'd have about $4000 in trusses alone... $2000 in OSB deck... probably $1500+ in shingles... $2000+ in cinder blocks and mortar. I can see $10,000 in materials there easily at current prices. I hate to suggest waiting a year or two but materials prices are just absurd right now.

 

[Rick W]

& send a couple pics from the street across the whole lot, please & thanks!

& on the inside shots, a couple pics on how the trusses sit on top of the blocks.

EDIT: How thick is the block wall? 8, 10, 12, 16”? Concrete filled block or hollow, if you know?

 

[Rick W]

Here’s the thought:
Jack up all or part of the roof
Cut block where you want garage doors
Frame a 2x6 wall 3-6’ high (depends on codes)
Obviously 2x6 wall is notched with overhead support where you want doors
Put some cheap windows around the new 2x6 rim
Drop the roof on it all.

how? Still consolidated:
1. I can make a couple calls from here without even using your name and check what the code would allow/require.
2. scavenge some mobile home frames for the long sections, you’ll need a minimum of four, length doesn’t matter. Cut everything off them so you are left with four long Junior I-beams.
3. Scavenge a couple of good pedestrian doors w/frames and as many rollup garage doors as you want.
4. Scavenger a whole pile of scrap/used two by fours or two by sixes or whatever to build temporary supports
5. Build a Temporary steel frame from the I-beams, where the long beams support the trusses, and you can use some rebar or small angle to crisscross the ends and the middle so the I-beams don’t fold over.
6. Put a 4 x 4 across two or three trusses roughly in the corners of the steel frame, and pull it up to the bottom of the trusses with ropes and pulleys or whatever.
7. Cut the junk two by fours into 18 to 24 inch long pieces, a bunch of them, and build columns to support the steel frame, screw them together no nails! but leave enough room for a hydraulic jack. You’ll need an extra column.
8. When you get the four columns in place, and the fifth column ready, saw cut across the roof so you can lift it up on the four posts.
9. Use the fifth post As the “jackstand” and jack up the roof a couple of inches and then support it on the adjacent column by adding more 2x4s. Move to the next corner and do the same, etc. etc. until you get it up to the height you want.

WARNING: even a mild wind could blow the loose roof off. You need to use straps or crossed two by fours to hold it in place against the wind as you raise it up. Usually it’s simply a matter of watching the wind predictions and avoiding wind.
10. Jack the roof up higher than you need.
11. Frame your walls including supports above windows and above doors and above garage doors
12. Lower the roof onto the new stub wall, and screw it down (there’s some detail to this)
13. Using plywood, not waferboard, sheathe the outside of the stub wall extending down over the block wall maybe six or 8 inches. Bolt that skirt through the block wall (Toggle bolts) so the roof won’t lift off in a strong wind!
14. Put it in your salvage doors and salvage garage doors and trim them out.
15. For windows, You can simply make a 2 x 6 square when you frame the wall, get single pane or double pane sheets of glass (or salvage glass) 1/2” x 1/2” smaller than the opening, and then trim a frame with 1/4 round, put the glass in and trim the outside frame.
13. You can make one of them a whole house fan
14. After you raise however many sections, you have to repair the cuts (structurally) and repair the shingles over the cuts or RE-shingle over the existing (code item how).
15. Id do electrical and plumbing after you close out the permit if you’re comfortable with it.

You get the idea. Happy to help you sketch it out if you want.

DISCLAIMER: this is personal brainstorming, certainly not engineering planning and my attached sketches may not be ready for construction!!!

EDIT: I’m guessing $10-12,000, and sell the iron, columns, etc on Craigslist

 

[Jim Oaks]

@Rick W the ceiling is drywalled so I can't see the trusses. In one photo you can see the wood top plate that the trusses sit on.

The building has an addition that starts to the left of the side door. You can sort of tell that the back of the building sloped in similar to the front, and they built on to it. There's a little dip there.

This is in the city, but it doesn't seem like there's much rules here about building.

 

[Jim Oaks]

The garage door would be on the end where that door and window is.