My 2.0-to-2.3 swap

[tomw]

I think I saw the computer sitting right next to the brake reservoir. Where do you plan on mounting it? I would think you'd want it inside the cab unless you can build a weatherproof box. It's not the computer I'd worry about, it is all the wires on the huge connector. I don't think that vintage was weatherized at all, depending on the shelter of the cab to keep it from corrosion. I figure you had it out in the engine bay for testing...
So you found the BOBO switch connector? I think it was plumbed for the install of cruise control... Kill the cruise with a touch of the brake pedal. Maybe not. If you had an EEC-IV, one of the diagnostic tests, key on engine off(IIRC) was the signal to twist the steering wheel, stomp on the brake pedal, and floor the throttle. Hmm, maybe I have mixed the two, but those three things were tests. One for the BOBO, one for the WOT, and one for the PSPS - power steering pressure switch, needed assist at idle when parking to overcome pump load. If you did not do the appropriate things, you'd set a code or get a blinky indicating there was a problem with one/more of those inputs. FWIW. I'm sure you wanted to know that tidbit. For some reason I had in my mind that the BOBO was the BOOB switch... at least I recognized my error.
tom

 

[kishy]

Yes, computer is just kind of standing there.

To recap:
85 truck.
95(+) engine (no aux shaft, no fake dizzy, F5 part number, DPFE-measured EGR).
EEC-IV harness installed on the engine (with DPFE pigtail due to above, = 94 I'm pretty sure)
93 EEC-IV harness from junkyard to go on the body, which necessitates swapping the DPFE pigtail to EVP in order to use the type of sensor 93 expects. also, I didn't want to deal with DPFE tubes)

Factory 85 EFI arrangement would place the computer inside the cab on the passenger side, however I needed to use a newer-than-factory, body-side-of-the-engine-harness in order to mate with the engine-side-of-the-engine-harness that existed on my engine. Going older would have simplified installation into the truck but would have potentially complicated mating it to the engine (e.g. wiring for twin plug coilpacks).

Factory 93 setup placed the computer in a cubby in the firewall (technically in the cab but it slides in from outside) with the connector exposed. It is a weatherproof EEC-IV connector, but the computer itself is not specifically weatherproof. However I do not believe this has any unsealed gaps (the EEC-IV lid usually has a gasket around it) and therefore it should be able to go wherever I want to put it. I am planning to make some sort of container for it, even if that's a plastic bag, just to keep road splash off of it. But where the wires enter the connector is watertight, at least. The computer will ultimately be limited to sitting on that driver side fender apron due to the harness not letting it reach anywhere else. I'm fine with that, nothing else needs to go there so it's not displacing anything.

You are correct that EEC-IV wants to monitor the BOO (Brake On/Off...the extra 'B' would make it funny but sadly does not exist) as well as the steering, when the variable pressure system exists. In later EEC-IV like this, the ECM handles cruise, so it needs to see the brakes applied (but I thought it was a vacuum-release that actually kills the cruise), but in earlier EEC-IV the ECM does not do cruise and a standalone module does it (up to 86 in Panthers, likely about the same in other stuff). The throttle flooring thing is meant to test the TPS; unfortunately Ford missed the mark on testing the TPS because their most common failure is an in-spec reading at the wrong spots as the potentiometer wears out (e.g. a resistance value indicating throttle is mostly open, which is valid, but appearing when the throttle is almost completely closed). But that's another can of worms.

Speaking of blinky, I will likely put the CEL onto the oil pressure light, because that swap is easily done out in the engine bay, but want to verify that the circuits work the same way (12V from the cluster, then the oil pressure switch / computer grounds the opposite end of the circuit to light the bulb). EVTM seems to suggest so.

It's gloomy and rainy today, I may not do the valve stem seals today as I'd hoped. Heading to a junkyard for a pigtail as well as relaxation, Xen, or something like that.

 

[kishy]

Got my EVP pigtail. So there's that.

Realized that my thermostat housing will not work.

In 93, the year I took it from, the alternator bracket was still the "short" version that did not extend all the way up to the coilpacks, and the coilpacks were mounted some other way.

In 95, the alternator bracket became full height and the coilpacks bolt to it directly (I would guess there was a current flow optimization reason for this). The bracket necessitates the heater output of the t-stat housing to come out from the head further before making its 90-degree turn to the passenger side.

I can likely bend this piece to work but doing so will result in an undesirable angle to the heater hose against the alternator bracket, I suspect, so I will be examining my options here. It doesn't cost a lot to just buy the newer style t-stat housing new so that's the fallback plan if I can't bend this to work.

Also verified in the junkyard that 94 (the only year readily available to me at the time) uses a newer style clutch safety switch and it doesn't look easily interchangeable. Therefore I could not get the plug that connects into my clutch safety switch to utilize its second circuit feature that is currently unused. So I'd have to wait for an old enough truck to show up to take the pigtail from, so more than likely I'll proceed with my relay idea. The clutch switch signal to the ECM is not necessary to run and drive but the computer won't self test without it, and I believe the computer also raises idle when clutching to clean up emissions during shifts. Likely no real concern for driving.





Also there's an 87 Turbocoupe in the yard and it's taunting me with that little snail it has hanging out beside the engine.

Also, also: my throttle cable might not work without alterations. Basic measurements suggest that the cable will not allow the throttle to fully close. I should be able to alter the bracket for the cable to take up some of the gap and correct that.

 

[kishy]

Swap progress for today:
Moved new engine onto stand.
Verified as one final, very important check that the crank position sensor is a revision before 1995 (e.g. it is the EEC-IV sensor). F2 = we're good.
Removed upper intake and valve cover, stared in awe at how new it looks inside.
Pulled all 8 plugs, stared in awe at how new they look.
Blew out dust/debris in cylinders with air on one side and vacuum on the other.
Poured some ATF in each cylinder and turned engine by hand. Completely free, turns smooth as butter.
Bent thermostat housing to be "good enough".
Removed timing belt and tensioner.

NOT doing the front crank seal. It requires a special tool to accurately position the front cover post-replacement, and I've therefore reasoned that it is a lot more likely for me to make it leak by an alignment issue, than for the existing seal to leak. Based on how the rear main was, it's fine.

Booked tomorrow off work because it's supposed to be awesome outside, so I'm hoping to knock out a good deal of progress.

 

[kishy]

Uhhhh, well, it's not getting new valve seals lol.

There are metal tubes around the valve springs which prevent the use of the type of spring compressor I have and need to use: http://a.co/d/9yKqetV
This necessitates the use of a specialty tool (a Ford part numbered version of the same is cited in Ford service manuals): http://a.co/d/1Y8FVSg

specialty tool info:
Ford number T95T-6565-A
Similar equivalent tool sold as Sealey VS168 or KD Tools/Danaher KD 3087.
The Sealey one can still be bought new as of today from a couple vendors on eBay and Amazon.

It pushes down on the spring using the camshaft for leverage. Personally, I'd be terrified of putting any sort of lateral stress on the cam, but that's me.

Anyway. Valve cover is back on and not coming off unless there are oil loss issues. I will continue using the gutted cat until I verify there is no oil consumption and once that is verified, the new cat will go on.

Timing belt and tensioner have been changed. EDIT: THE TIMING MARK ALIGNMENT SHOWN IS WRONG. This gets clarified in reply #29 to this same thread.

Frost plug block heater has not been installed because I did a dumb and bought the wrong one. Had to egg out the holes on the throttle cable bracket to bring it closer to the ball stud, so the 85 throttle cable will work (still not sure if it will but there's actually a chance it might now, where it was hopeless before).

Verified the fan clutch can mount to the existing water pump, obtained longer bolts to do this successfully.

Belt. Belt belt belt. 6K415 as specified for a 95 Ranger 2.3, manual steering with no a/c, is too long by I'd guesstimate an inch. Chances are, given the application of this engine, it never had an alternator and used a special short belt that only turned the water pump and that's it, so I'm guessing my water pump pulley is unique and smaller than what is normally used on a Ranger. Oh well. CarQuest has a couple unusual size belts (6K405 and 6K407 come to mind) on order which are hopefully going to be in my hands tonight to test fit. Once the correct belt is identified I will buy my spare from RockAuto but will continue using the expensive part store belt.

Received my exhaust manifold back from my buddy's shop and have what I think is all the hardware necessary to put it together. Engine needs pilot bearing, flywheel, clutch installed and it will then be ready to drop in.






Timing mark references:

 

[kishy]

The end is near...

Swap progress for today:
Figured out the best belt size: 6K400. 380 is too short, 405 fits but the tensioner barely pushes on it, so 400 it is.
Tested and installed thermostat.
Routed PCV hose, likely too thin and will collapse, but whatever.
Gapped, antiseized and torqued plugs.
Installed exhaust manifold, chased O2 sensor port threads, cleaned up EGR tube threads and installed EGR tube.
Replaced DPFE pigtail with EVP pigtail.
Installed alternator.
Installed pilot bearing.
Mounted flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate.

Dropped the engine into the truck.
Not done yet though. Fuel tank is absent, need to run lines. Also need some heater hose.

 

[kishy]

The end is less near.

Swap progress for today:
Bellhousing and mounts fully bolted up.
O2 sensor installed.
New main ground cable completed.
New gear reduction starter installed.
Old oil drained, new oil put in with new filter.
Fan clutch attached to water pump.
Misc wiring stuff.
Tested mysterious unused switch on side of trans, determined it is a neutral safety switch so I'll use that with my remote starter.
Was going to crank the engine (no fuel) to prime the oiling system but discovered the new starter is either dead or I introduced an issue during install, so that needs to come out again for diagnosis.

To-do:
Figure out starter issues
Connect driveshaft,
Route fuel lines,
Hang fuel tank,
Repair parking brake,
Cooling system stuff (flush, fill, figure out hoses)
Install remote starter











All body electrical is working so the hackery I did with the harness worked.
The ECM triggers the fuel pump relay so most likely the engine electrical is good to go also.
The start circuit works, but starter itself is inop.

 

[tomw]

Some Rangers in the vicinity(year wise) had a switch on the transmission that was used by the "Upshift Now" (words?) light. I think it was a switch noting you were in the top gear, and if you were still in a lower gear, would flash the light telling you an up-shift was needed. Noted your two(visible) switches in the pics, and reminded me.
I did not know there was a neutral switch on any manual. Though I put mine in neutral to start, the need for one never crossed my mind.
Put the old starter in place? The new(geared) would need the signal from the relay(or key switch) to enable the solenoid. Did you add an extension to the ignition START signal from the relay to the solenoid?
tom

 

[kishy]

Yes, I've seen the "top gear switch" mentioned in the EVTM. The TK5 does not have it. I tested continuity of the switch I found on my trans and verified it is closed in neutral and open in any gear, so it will be perfect as a safety switch for my remote start. I will probably just run the start circuit through it using the available unused automatic trans NSS wiring that exists in my junkyard harness, as it's the easiest way to get wires near that switch. This will mean I can take the clutch switch totally out of the start circuit and use it solely for the computer which simplifies things.

Swap progress for today, so far:

Fixed the starter. A crimp had come undone. Engine cranks happily now. I'm glad I realized this before actually removing the starter.

Determined I need a different lower rad hose due to a tight bend in the routing. Will use current to flush block but will get correct hose to actually use. The new hose will be the correct hose for a 95 Ranger (with the extension pipe off the water pump which the earlier trucks lack). The upper hose for the 85, which I replaced in my ownership of the truck, fits the 93 style thermostat housing just fine.

Started engine. It ran reasonably well. Especially considering I forgot to connect the MAF lol. Gas tank is on the ground under the truck, just set up temporarily to make sure it runs (and it did, so the tank can go up soon).

However, it has since stopped starting so diagnosis is required. It is not sparking on any plug on either side, so a wiring, ICM, or crank sensor issue is suspected. After a break earlier I tried it again and it did fire one cylinder, one time, so I don't know. That tends to speak to the crank sensor being fine.









Heading back out to troubleshoot. It's dark and rainy so I might call it a night. Junkyard tomorrow for a spare ICM is a possibility. It's a lot easier to rule parts out when you have spares to swap in place but none of this item has shown up lately and they're way too expensive new to buy unnecessarily.

 

[kishy]

As a further update with the no-start not resolved:

Fuel pressure is a very stable just-north-of 40PSI. If fuel is turned off (inertia switch) with fuel pressurized, and the engine is cranked with ignition on, the pressure drops in very crisp, precise drops, as the injectors open and close. This tells me the computer is seeing the signal from the crank position sensor, otherwise it would not be opening injectors.

My timing light is not flashing on any plug, consistently, when cranking. It may occasionally blink but not with any regularity.

With the exhaust side plugs out of the head and fuel and ignition turned on, the engine spits fire out of the plug wells. Thus, the intake side plugs are firing sufficiently to ignite the a/f mix.

However, the spark at the plugs is a weak sickly yellow colour. This suggests there may just not be enough voltage hitting the plugs which might point to the coilpacks (but really, two coilpacks? and on both pairs of outputs?) or power supply to the coilpacks (ign module suspect or ignition switch voltage drop). This suspected low spark voltage is probably why my timing light is not flashing.

Replaced the ignition switch since I had one, and since the old one was known to be junk from past experience, and saw no change. But at least the issue should be gone where I can wiggle the key to turn the accessory circuit off.

We've got fuel, we've got air, and we've got spark but not very good spark.

Some additional testing focusing on the ICM and coilpacks will follow.

 

[kishy]

Got junkyard ICM (newer aftermarket, which is a good sign). Did not fix issue. Spark might be better than I remembered it being, but...I dunno.

Fiddled around with a bunch of random stuff and finally did a compression test. A very even approx 60-65PSI on all cylinders.

It's way too level across all 4 to be the head gasket, rings, or valves, because those issues would make it vary from cylinder to cylinder. Suspect cam timing is off.

Not sure how or why it ran before, but the compression speaks to why it isn't starting the engine but how it shot flames out of the plug wells. It is putting fuel in, and it is putting spark in, and fire is happening, but the fire is not happening at the right time on the cam for anything helpful to come of it.

Continuing with this tomorrow.

 

[tomw]

It is too easy to get the belt timing off when installing a new belt. That might explain the low compression. I installed the replacement, and then rotated the crankshaft two turns and re-checked. My marks were off, and I never could figure out what I had done to cause that. When I tried again, I got all the slack out between crank>aux and aux>cam and let it all be floppy between the cam and crankshaft. Released and set the tensioner, and did the two rotations once again. Second time was the charm.
tom


added: If you are running out of parts, you know you are close to being done. I think you will like how it runs after you are done. You will have close to 20 hp over the factory 85 2.3, and more since yours was a 2.0.
If the engine came with the exhaust manifold, you should have a slightly used O2 sensor, but if the manifold was used, and the O2 of unknown origin, I'd install a new one. FWIW.

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

Nice work there Kishy, That timing is a b*tch to set, I learned a couple things to do for mines from your post. My cylinder head is being custom built as we speak and I will be tackling my rebuild this weekend, Question anyone know where to find the cover for timing marks? For some reason i have the top cover but the one attached to block was broken when i got it.

 

[kishy]

So, those timing marks are little bastards. And they lie. At least they do on this engine.

BTW - this is a great diagnostic routine to run through if suspecting ignition issues: https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/2.3L/icm-and-crank-sensor-tests-1
In my case I came out to 'bad ICM' but knew otherwise because 3 different ones behaved the same; that's when I thought to check compression.
Specifically, there is a way to easily see if the crank sensor is reporting its two different signals to the ICM and ECM. This is critically important information to knowing if the ICM even knows that it's supposed to spark a coil.

Agree that the best way is to pull the belt tight against the crank, tight against the oil pump (aux shaft on 94-), then tight against the cam, then let the tensioner pull it all together. It is very easy for one or even two teeth of slack to exist particularly between the crank and oil pump and you not realize it until rechecking why it has issues.

I had to use the (nonexistent) timing marks that exist on my 2.0 to set the timing on this 2.3 correctly. It was about 4 teeth out from correct because:

1 - when I set it, I missed the triangle mark by 2 teeth (oops), and
2 - I had to time it off the old school timing pointer instead of the triangle (cam key pointing straight down)

The markings to correctly time my engine do not exist. This is probably the result of the mish-mash of years of parts that went into it.

The easy way to do it (and what I did) is with the cam timing mark centerline aligned with a straight line between the center lines of both the cam and oil pump pulleys. That got me to a 140PSI (dry) compression result.

I do not know where to get the back half of the timing cover. I suspect junkyard is the only option unless you can find the Ford part number and buy it on eBay or maybe from the dealer.


Progress for today is very good. It runs and drives!

Ignition module thermal paste re-applied.

Rad flush and distilled water in engine with heater core not in the circuit. Hoping to clean the inside of the block.

Made a new ground connection to the frame rail where the new fuel sender harness wants to be grounded.

Oilsprayed (Rust Check) inside frame rail beside fuel tank.

Fuel tank reinstalled; driveshaft reinstalled. Fuel float has decided to act up again but I'll survive.

Also received a new ignition switch the other day.

Ziptied the throttle cable in place (and many other things) and took it for a drive. Drives awesome. Tons more power than before.

Still need to put some finishing touches on, such as mounting the air cleaner and reinstalling the hood, and tighten up the exhaust, but this is almost road-ready.





2.0 timing pointer:


2.3 after timing correctly (notice it doesn't point at anything, but that's where the 2.0 pointer would be):

 

[tomw]

As Willie N would say: "On the road again..."

If I understand correctly, you should be treating the engine as if it was just assembled or re-built. The original use was for limited hours, so the thing may not even be broken in yet.

I figured you'd like the added power those tiny 300ccs provide, and the EFI makes it all run so much more efficiently than the carb. You should get in the high 20's in US mpg terms. Km/l or Km/IG I dunno. Do they still use 'Imperial Gallons' in Canada or is everything metric? I have not been in a long time, but do remember the volume was larger.
tom