lower 93 ranger

[SLNGR]

what is the best way to lower a 93 ranger on a budget?

 

[Insanejughead]

I can see that you're new here, but you're asking a question that has been asked and answered quite a few times (sarcastically speaking) on here.


For the price of some nuts & washers & bolts, an angle grinder, a saw blade and some camber bushings, you can lower it roughly 2" all around.

You cut your front coil springs a bit (READ UP ON IT BEFORE YOU START CUTTING) and flip your rear hangers. If you're wanting a level stance, you'd best just stick with the hangar flip like I did.
(Note: Mine's not completely level because I cut half a coil out of my coil springs.)

Oh, and there is a button along the top of this page that says "Search". Click that and type in a few basic words on what you're looking for and that should help you out immensely. A good deal of people on this site get tired of answering the same questions to newbies week after week...


*Are we there yet... Are we there yet... Are we there yet...*

 

[Resurrection Ranger]

You think he would of found that Lurking!?! None the less he's right. This place is stocked to the rafters with information. Especially things like that. Now if you attempt something and have trouble.. Ask away as that's a different story. I myself am a little shy on coil cutting. Check the vendors on here too. They can help you with the mild to wild..yes even on a budget!

 

[Kingoverace]

dude....check out the Tech Library tab.....has everything!!!

I did the shackle/hanger flip....was kinda fun!!!
Heres a pic of JUST a shackle flip.... only problem with pic is the ground is uneven... so pic is kinda useless...but truck initually had ALOT of rake....idk y.

0/2 drop

 

[doorgunner]

I cut the coils on my truck & lowered it 3"........I llost the 3" in suspension travel though....not a good thing on Louisiana highways...

when I get some $$$$ I'm gonna order the 3" drop kit/sstock springs from Illusive to get the suspension travel back to where it should be now that I'm sure that that's the look that I want.

 

[slammedxonair]

Belltech 2" drop coils for the front https://www.illusivefabrications.com/html/modules.php?name=catalog&file=product_info&cPath=21_38&products_id=216&osCsid=046405e265fb5c48084e3e14ac4d8c35

and then flip your rear hangers and shackles, that is the cheapest reliable way to go.

 

[Resurrection Ranger]

What about beams? Is that better than doing coils? What are the pros and cons if i may ask. I'm lookin at a 2-4 in my future

 

[doorgunner]

What about beams? Is that better than doing coils? What are the pros and cons if i may ask. I'm lookin at a 2-4 in my future

from what the guys say......a set of coil springs from Illusive would be the fastest cheapest way to go....then if you decided to go lower, just buy their beam kit & install it...check out their site...

 

[JoshT]

I'm lookin at a 2-4 in my future

If all you are wanting is 2" in front beams are going to give you three. If you want lower and can afford it I have got to say just the opposite of door gunner and suggest getting the beams first. I personally prefer beams because:

1) Guaranteed 3" drop with beams, springs will depend on how much your stockers have sagged over time.

2) Easier to align, with springs you may need alignment eccentrics.

3) If you decide the beams are not low enough all you gotta decide whether you want static or adjustable job to get it lower. If you want static swap out the springs and alignment bushings. If you want adjustable you have the right beams for it.

 

[Resurrection Ranger]

Ok.. In my vision of lowering it.. not slamming.. I'm still looking at functionalities of a pick up but also have a better look and obvious handling characteristics that come with lowering the center of gravity, suspension travel, and so forth. I still, on occasion, utilize my bed for what it is. I thought 2-4 would still give me function. How 3 in the front would definitely make a huge transition from what it is today, to equal the stance out would i than need to drop 5 in the rear? To me, that seems to take just about all the weight bearing capabilities out from underneath it. Say even a couple hundred pounds. I could notch but for some reason IMOO i think that compromises some integrity. On a different note, i'm looking to change out the coils anyway since the rate of them always seemed to stiff from when they were replaced 10 or so years ago. Even the new gabriel gas shocks on all four corners are tough to deal with on choppy roads. I'm not lookin to build a lowered town car though..

 

[Resurrection Ranger]

I'm also thinking of rebushing everything.. would the beams eliminate having to do some of them? I'm not that familiar with what all gets replaced with the beam approach? And finally, with doing either the coil or beam route, are lowered shocks a requirement or just a good idea considering i'm not that happy with the ride now and would like to change them. The back end pretty much just bounces over the rough stuff to begin with. Didn't know if flipping would change the characteristics..

 

[JoshT]

Dropping your truck while retaining stock springs will not affect the load carrying capacity of your truck. What it will affect is how soon your axle will hit bump stops. Regardless of whether you are sitting stock, lowered with shackle/hangar flip, or lowered with an axle flip, you can carry the same weight. The flipped axle will hit bump stops way before stock, and the flipped shackle/hangar will hit somewhere in between. There are ways around this such as shorter bump stops, bolt in notch, or some sort of load assist that only comes into play when the bed is loaded. The thing is you need to figure out how much lower you want to go. I haven't seen your truck, but I am guessing that a shackle flip by itself would level your truck. If you wanted to level with a 2" drop in front you would need to do an axle flip in the rear to get closer to 4" (w/out shackle flip). Leveling with beams will probably put you needing about an additional inch over the axle flip to get ~5", this could be accomplished with the Chevy shackle (do a search I'm not familiar with it myself). With the 4 " rear drop the bump stops would probably need to be trimmed, with the 5" rear drop they would definitely need it of not a small notch.


The only bushings you would actually replace with the beams (and they come with it) is the axle pivot beam. Beams do not require drop shocks in the front, the way they are designed allows use of standard shocks. As for lowering in general, I have heard that the ride is rougher than stock. If this is true or not IDK. While I have the beams, I never got to the point of lowering my 84 before I totaled the truck. That said I wouldn't have really been able to compare it anyway because I also have Edelbrock Performer IAS shocks, and full set of Energy Suspension Poly suspension and body mount bushings, and was going to purchase new springs for all four corners to install at the same time as I did the drop. I imagine that if it is true though it is due to the decreased suspension travel available with a lowered vehicle. I imigine that drop beams would avoid this decreased suspension travel in the front, because rather than a change in suspension geometry, the location of the tire is changed in relation to the suspension.

 

[doorgunner]

What he said!

 

[Resurrection Ranger]

Dropping your truck while retaining stock springs will not affect the load carrying capacity of your truck. What it will affect is how soon your axle will hit bump stops. Regardless of whether you are sitting stock, lowered with shackle/hangar flip, or lowered with an axle flip, you can carry the same weight. The flipped axle will hit bump stops way before stock, and the flipped shackle/hangar will hit somewhere in between. There are ways around this such as shorter bump stops, bolt in notch, or some sort of load assist that only comes into play when the bed is loaded. The thing is you need to figure out how much lower you want to go. I haven't seen your truck, but I am guessing that a shackle flip by itself would level your truck. If you wanted to level with a 2" drop in front you would need to do an axle flip in the rear to get closer to 4" (w/out shackle flip). Leveling with beams will probably put you needing about an additional inch over the axle flip to get ~5", this could be accomplished with the Chevy shackle (do a search I'm not familiar with it myself). With the 4 " rear drop the bump stops would probably need to be trimmed, with the 5" rear drop they would definitely need it of not a small notch.


The only bushings you would actually replace with the beams (and they come with it) is the axle pivot beam. Beams do not require drop shocks in the front, the way they are designed allows use of standard shocks. As for lowering in general, I have heard that the ride is rougher than stock. If this is true or not IDK. While I have the beams, I never got to the point of lowering my 84 before I totaled the truck. That said I wouldn't have really been able to compare it anyway because I also have Edelbrock Performer IAS shocks, and full set of Energy Suspension Poly suspension and body mount bushings, and was going to purchase new springs for all four corners to install at the same time as I did the drop. I imagine that if it is true though it is due to the decreased suspension travel available with a lowered vehicle. I imigine that drop beams would avoid this decreased suspension travel in the front, because rather than a change in suspension geometry, the location of the tire is changed in relation to the suspension.

Ok here it is..

First off let me say thank you to all that information. The last time I looked into lowering the truck was about 12yrs ago and the only thing that was available to do it were spindles and were expensive at the time. I seen they're still available but I think I'm gonna go the beam route.

You made mention that it would be easier to go lower in the front if I got the beams first by getting springs or "adjusting" something. What is adjusted out of curiosity?

I didn't think lowering would take away from weight capacity but I figured it would move the wheels closer to the wells, therefor more of a chance to bottom out in them. Again, I don't haul anything with weight very often, just want to know if and how things will change when I haul a load of mulch or something.

The more I look at the truck, the more I want to do this. But I still have to improve on the ride. Even though the shocks are only a few years old they are gas and I think that is a big issue. How the stiffness make for great handling on smooth road.. its choppy on the rough stuff. How are the nitro shocks? I'd have to look into a variable rate spring for the front too. I'd rather get the suspension straightened out before I bring it closer to the ground.

 

[JoshT]

I'd rather get the suspension straightened out before I bring it closer to the ground.

I believe that's the smartest thing I've heard anyone say, on their own, regarding dropping a truck. Usually they have other problems and are wanting to drop the truck, while everyone else is telling them to fix what ever first and they won't listen. I agree with your statement to an extent. If you know you are going to drop the truck fix everything to the point of needing an alignment, (if one is needed), but wait on the alignment if you will be doing the drop soon. Otherwise you may end up having to do the alignment over again.

You made mention that it would be easier to go lower in the front if I got the beams first by getting springs or "adjusting" something. What is adjusted out of curiosity?

I'm going to have to look back at what all I said. I just got home after 10 hours on the job and can barely think straight. I'll try to clarify later.