This is a book, strap in.
NOOOOOOOO I don't own a Daytona coupe. The deal is, I found out about the FFR kits about four years ago and was like, I want that. So I was saving up, reading, checking the FFR forum (not from the company, just, a good one), looking at suspensions, engines, trans, tires, blah blah. You -can- build one for maybe 40k (parts) if you use a donor engine or can rebuild an engine; you can use 'stang IRS and rear end if you find a good one. But if you put all new parts, which I was planning, you will be 60k easy by the time you get done, maybe more - depends do you paint it yourself, too. They have even put Aluminator engine in them that's a pretty penny, really for a drift car though, way overpowered for street. I won't bore you yet more with all the details. Let's just say that even doing all the labor yourself, 60k would probably be a bottom number. They're the ultimate in cool factor / ego inflation / show off but practical? No. Hard to get in/out, if you carry a spare, zero room to carry anything, etc. Very low clearance, probably couldn't even get in my driveway, then I'd have to have somebody re-do that. Probably get a ticket in 2 seconds if you're not real careful. Drive next to a semi and be scared to death. A redeeming factor is they register as a '65 so no bumpers, no emissions - no problem. Anyway, that's where I was. I did learn a lot about things, a lot applies to vehicles in general, but not a whole lot to Rangers specifically.
We're surrounded by national forest here. I went up a dirt road (Mazda 2wd) - before I had XLT - , county roads often turn into forest service roads. Just an outing - got to a creek, stopped, got out, was like, this is nice being out here, but looks like the creek would be hairy. Then a couple 4x4 came by from the other side. I was like, aha, I need 4x4, they're going through that like nothing with a smile on their face. Mazda was easy to work on. So I started asking questions here. Keeping in mind I didn't want to spend tons because of the Daytona project, I got the '97 XLT, based on advice here. Love it. Have been a few places way past where I was with the Mazda. I carry stuff depending what I want to do but keep enough stuff always in the tool box I can go fishing, picnic, metal detecting, gold panning (not much gold here), look for fossils and cool rocks (collect flat rocks for rock garden / dogs' graves). Stuff like that. Just get out where there's nobody or rarely see anybody and if you do they're 4x4.
Then I thought, ok, I could upgrade the XLT, and not abandon the coupe idea. Upgrades were in mind when I asked questions what truck will be good for me. Then I started looking at prerunners and said, well the Mazda could be a prerunner. I could do coupe, XLT, and prerunner.
Got to the point of flailing which is what we called it in the old days then computers kept swapping programs in and out of memory but never actually did anything. Finally I said, prerunner isn't appropriate for what I want. That made me say, well, the coupe isn't either. What can you do with it, you can have fun on a flat highway. You can park it and have people admire it. You can look at it in your garage and it's pretty. That's it. Not for me. It's hard to abandon something you put a lot of time into and was kind of your dream, but I'm ok with it. Plus, other half likes 4x4 trips, huge plus there (previously - "we never do anything").
So after all that, I got to the point of saying, just pick one project, concentrate on the XLT. I have the Mazda for daily driver, XLT can be apart for up a while if it ever has to be. Admittedly unless I'm worried about parking lot dings I usually take the XLT because you get spoiled by all the power features and buckets and the 4.0L and it's just in a different class. Rock bars would eliminate reduce chance of parking lot dings, side advantage of them.
I spent a bunch of time on Skyjacker and they carry Yukon parts and ran up to close to 10k right off the bat. 6" lift (springs in back), 4.56 ratios, coilovers, steering shocks (2), big tires (maybe 35"), probably/maybe fenders (less weight, bolt-on, and you can make it look like a Raptor if you want, swap out headlights etc, they don't rust/dent, have to match paint), oh, probably I should get new bearings for diff's, maybe trans check-out, what if big tires don't clear insides of steering, will I need new wheels with different backspacing, lockers (Detroit rear, elec front), oh, I'll need bumpers (inspection), hitches to attach winch front/back, winch, lights, probably want that rugged rear diff cover with the bolts that secure the pinions (something like that), and don't forget the rock bars. Probably want to do some other renew-type stuff as long as everything is apart. By the time I got done (just for parts) I was like well for that I could sell the XLT, add the cost of those upgrades, and get a brand new Ranger (say 45k with all the stuff). But the latter is still more expensive (taxes, insurance, registration, etc) and they're nice but not as capable as a fully tricked out XLT.
Point is I saved up for the coupe now I'm saying, nah, you thought you wanted it, but things change and I'm allowed to change my mind. Even -if- I did all that stuff above to the XLT it wouldn't even come close to cost of the coupe that I saved for. I hate spending anything, but when I look at parts, let's say something is 300-400 (a lot of stuff is in that range, but it adds up), that's not even like one wheel or one tire for a coupe.
But doing the total thing is a lot (I mean, a
lot) of work and the truck would be basically completely torn apart for a long time and some needs special expensive tools, and some I would maybe have to farm out. And projects always have side trips, what if you get things apart and go, yikes I should replace this.
Clearance is important to me, one place I stopped because of worries about clearance/breakover. But even if you go 35" you are only adding 2" clearance for your diffs. I have skid plates now (came with them, 2 anyway). I have one piece driveshaft. Good things. I *think* part of the advantage for lift, aside from you have to do it to clear tires (well - maybe not true if you change fenders - don't know), is that you get more suspension travel and better shocks and can reduce bump steering as part of it. But is suspension travel important to me if I'm not going fast, maybe not, just depends on terrain I suppose. I can do a little with the front by temporarily disconnecting its sway bar. Lift has disadvantages (c/g, and, can require bumpers to pass inspection, and handles less well on the highway).
Now as to your comment. Thanks, you are spot on! This is where I am today. Look at it as stages. Stock truck is good, goes lots of places effortlessly. There will always be places you can't go even if you have a rock crawler.
3 things I'd keep in mind. Number one, don't mess it up, meaning, the majority of trucks I see on the street where people mucked with them, they look bad, they don't really have much different clearance (mabye less!) than my truck now (body clearance, yes, but not drivetrain clearance). So cosmetic is important in that sense. I think, if done right, that issue takes care of itself. Number two, don't overkill the build and the cost and the downtime for something you may never need other than it's cool. Number three, try to avoid doing things that prevent you from doing further stages, or cause throw-aways later. That might be unavoidable, but try to minimize the possibility.
The plan, today - and leaving totally aside any possible further stages:
Stage 1. Install manual hubs, run vents (diffs/trans) up higher (I'm in creeks a lot, the roads go back and forth over them). 31" tires or Toyo 265's (needs tires soon anyway and has 29" now, 265's were oem). Ceramic bead balancing. Don't mess with lift, just going to the bigger tires adds an 1" clearance easy, a bit more because 29" are worn. 265's will not rub, 31", probably a bit inside on full steering cut, but people run them. Lift or drop shackles might get rid of the oem 2" rubber blocks re axle wrap but at this point I'm not stressing it a lot. Don't mess with ratios or lockers or anything like that. Don't think I need add'l trans cooler at this point. Recovery gear, not sure what you are saying? Just get straps and hook them to frame and have somebody pull me out if I'm stuck?
I don't see what 2" lift does for me if tires are that size but I hear you and I could do it, just don't understand that it gains me with that size tire so comments there are welcome.
So no cost really and no work or tearing apart unless the small lift.
Then go run it (I spend more time talking about it than using it right now), have fun with it, and when I get somewhere that I say, man, I need xyz, think about later stages then.
And include normal stuff like valve cover gaskets, address oil pan gasket leak if I can, replace filter mount (leaks by its seal to engine). These are tiny leaks. Main seal leaks a little, but that sounds like a nightmare, so if what I'm seeing from the low-down leaks is like 3-4 drops when parking and oil level just doesn't change visibly, don't worry about main seal. Those aren't upgrades, just maintenance.
Rock bars are really nice and save your rocker panels and save you from some or most door dings when parking. Adds some weight, but worth it. They wouldn't change anything later relative to any future upgrades. Not sure if you bolt them to the frame and have to drill holes does it weaken it, probably not appreciably, you could also weld them on ( think), then they're permanent but I suppose so what. They don't list for my year but don't see why they wouldn't fit. Those are true rock bars and you get the 45 degree angle (if you want). They would help other half getting in/out (and me, if I ever lifted it a lot) and help you reach the roof without slipping off the door jamb (done it, not fun).
Ford Ranger Rock Sliders: Ford Ranger Rock Sliders and Step kits, Rockrails (rocky-road.com). If they won't do it I could have my welder guy make these. Pic on left is one of the styles, truck has different style that I like.
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