just had it running last week!!!

[huntin_muddin_91]

Long story short... i had the b*tch running a few days ago was a hair out of time but couldn tell till you cranked it to bout 4 grand But.. i dropped one of my brand new plugs cracked the porcelin and threw a preowned one in that i knew nothing about so could of been the problem so i shut it down for a few days starting here n there till i got all my guage work/ wiring caught up. Then i go to start it one day runs good for bout 3 min then starts goin down hill quick! Well i just changed my water neck gasket that had been minor leaking but the hold down bolt on the dist. was tighter then hell i grabbed distributor and pretty much shook the truck got a buddy to do then same so i didn feel dilusional and no move ment... so i start tracing. Go to regap my points and the plastic melted off the lifter part, brand new distributor a lil weird but they cheap enough. So i get back from parts house expecting the thing to fire right up... LOL YEA RIGHT! Its soundin like it only fires on maybe 4 cylinders not back firing threw carb or exhaust. i pulled the plugs for being all new got a rather good bit of carbon on them, but no wetness except the number 4 cylinder( i wouldnt label it as even a bad wet at all) got them gapped at .035 my points are at .016 tried higher and lower but the same out come. moved timeing around the best it runs is way advanced which aint runnin good but it will... today im getting new plugs cause they are cheaper than the brand new wires i got on it, i find it odd to foul that many plugs that quick but i found it odd to melt the plastic off the points of a brand new distrubutor. Any help is nice cause im stumped! Only other thing besides wires would be condenser but i thought when they shit thats it not any intermitent firing i got brand new electric fuel pump thats getting fuel, brand new holley carb/edel intake so air/fuel is drawn out. got vac plugged to my carb. Im pulling my hair out i must of missed something! At least the local brewerys been makin money the last few days!!!

 

[martin]

A bad condensor will cause the points to burn. It will also not allow the motor to rev ,especially under load. If you don't have a good spark the plugs will foul very quickly.

Electric pumps and carbs are often an issue. Anything more than around three psi is likely to cause flooding.

 

[red85]

Did you check your ballast resistor? If it's running the coil at full voltage all the time, crazy things can happen with breaker point ignition systems.

 

[COPPERHEAD85]

If you have the spare cheese (around $120) ......jump on ebay and buy a Pro Comp dizzy and coil.....chunk the points!
Could be uber wear in the dizzy its self,points have been gone for a while,no telling what the miles on yours is.

 

[Teddyzee]

If you have the spare cheese (around $120) ......jump on ebay and buy a Pro Comp dizzy and coil.....chunk the points!
Could be uber wear in the dizzy its self,points have been gone for a while,no telling what the miles on yours is.

Better advice would be give that cash to a homeless guy.

Then go buy good parts.
Just my experience with ProComp trash.

 

[fordmike1]

Procomps parts are JUNK!!!
Save yourself alot of headaches and money and stay far far away from Procomp stuff!!!

Now on to your problem. As was said before it sounds like you are not running a ballest resistor causing to much voltage to your coil and making things way to hott. You will burn out your points and the condensor if you have 12v at the coil and it will burn up the coil also. I have even seen a coil explode from running full voltage. If your condensor goes out your truck will not fire at all so replace the points and condensor together every time. Good Luck.......Mike.

 

[COPPERHEAD85]

I guess mine has been a fluke for 3 years.
Have had 0 problems with it.

 

[huntin_muddin_91]

Got her runnin! ended up being sure as shit the condenser put it in first before plugs fired right up no prob. (guess i can return the plugs) I did have a cheap dura last coil that called for external resistor/ resistor wire i just threw the porcelin or what ever it is resistor in before the coil. Now every part i was dealing w/ is brand new from auto zone... Which over the last 2 months i did quit doin buisness w/ a zone for them fine reasons, they seem to hire a bunch of jackasses that dont know anything besides what to type in a computer. But unfortunatly i got most my parts there before i quit them. Now that being my first mistake my second one was going w/ points set up, definatly kickin myself right now. Since then i was trying to rule possibilities out of the picture so i got a Accel coil that claims they dont need a resistor, main reason i went to accel was my resistor got dam hot the one day of misfiring so i thought i must of burned it up. Should i be running a resistor even tho the coil dont need one? another question i went w/ chevy single wire alternator to eliminate guess work but im lookin round at buddies chevys to figure how to excite the alt. theres three posts one hot to the bat and 2 male studs labeled (1 and 2) im jumpin the #2 back to bat hot and that should excite it after i revv the engine IM HOPING aint a big deal just seing if any one ran the same idea? other than that should have truck moving round the shop this weekend and off to midas monday!!!!

 

[fordmike1]

Got her runnin! ended up being sure as shit the condenser put it in first before plugs fired right up no prob. (guess i can return the plugs) I did have a cheap dura last coil that called for external resistor/ resistor wire i just threw the porcelin or what ever it is resistor in before the coil. Now every part i was dealing w/ is brand new from auto zone... Which over the last 2 months i did quit doin buisness w/ a zone for them fine reasons, they seem to hire a bunch of jackasses that dont know anything besides what to type in a computer. But unfortunatly i got most my parts there before i quit them. Now that being my first mistake my second one was going w/ points set up, definatly kickin myself right now. Since then i was trying to rule possibilities out of the picture so i got a Accel coil that claims they dont need a resistor, main reason i went to accel was my resistor got dam hot the one day of misfiring so i thought i must of burned it up. Should i be running a resistor even tho the coil dont need one? another question i went w/ chevy single wire alternator to eliminate guess work but im lookin round at buddies chevys to figure how to excite the alt. theres three posts one hot to the bat and 2 male studs labeled (1 and 2) im jumpin the #2 back to bat hot and that should excite it after i revv the engine IM HOPING aint a big deal just seing if any one ran the same idea? other than that should have truck moving round the shop this weekend and off to midas monday!!!!

Scrap that GM junk and get a Ford 3G alt that puts out 130 amps and if you want it could be a one wire also. http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=75
The Green wire with the red tracer is for your dash light or gauge so you know that it is working.

 

[huntin_muddin_91]

Thanks for the site imfo i didnt relise ford made a single wire setup... atleast didnt know were to find one, as far as the chevy junk goes its ashame to have it in my truck but got sick of kickin it round the shop for 2 years figured id put it to use, cant lie tho probly 45% of my front suspension is early GM. Thanks for the help fellas

 

[sparky2eh]

im lookin round at buddies chevys to figure how to excite the alt. theres three posts one hot to the bat and 2 male studs labeled (1 and 2) im jumpin the #2 back to bat hot and that should excite it after i revv the engine

If my "rememberer" is working today Alternator Bat post to battery positive and terminal #2 and a 12 volt when key on wire goes to terminal #1...... the key on wire is what turns the alternator on/off.