John Deere lawn mowers, with or without lug nuts, which is best?

[OilPatch197]

Some John Deere lawn tractors have no rear lug nuts, held on a welded spindle with a key and retainer.

But many lawn tractors still use a rear hub and lug nuts to hold the wheel on.

Which is the better design?

 

[bmerr98]

Are they the same size, hp, etc? I usually associate lug nuts with a heavier commercial grade lawn tractor as opposed to the lighter residential mowers.

 

[ElectraRider]

lug nuts are more secure in my book.

 

[tmcalavy]

Ditto...if price is not in the way, go for the one with lug nuts.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Are they the same size, hp, etc? I usually associate lug nuts with a heavier commercial grade lawn tractor as opposed to the lighter residential mowers.

+1

But the older ones are mostly lug nuts. My rear engine SX-95 is by no means a commercial lawn tractor but it has lug nuts on the rear.

It has been in the family for 15 years and has never lost either a rear bolted on tire or a front snap ring secured tire.

The big farm tractors basically use a key on a shaft (much larger in every way) and it works pretty good.

If you are just mowing grass don't worry about the lug nut thing.

 

[OilPatch197]

+1

But the older ones are mostly lug nuts. My rear engine SX-95 is by no means a commercial lawn tractor but it has lug nuts on the rear.

It has been in the family for 15 years and has never lost either a rear bolted on tire or a front snap ring secured tire.

The big farm tractors basically use a key on a shaft (much larger in every way) and it works pretty good.

If you are just mowing grass don't worry about the lug nut thing.

That makes sense, the big tractors use a keyed shaft, so JD puts that on their lawn tractors? Is there a patent they have on it or something? I feel a keyed shaft is as strong as a hub with lug nuts, the design of the rim determines the strength.

MTD/Cub Cadets still come with Lug nuts as do most lawn tractors. I can see a cost savings in assembly and materials with the keyed shaft.

 

[96Indyram]

When looking at lawnmowers the thing to look at is the Deck. How thick it is, what kind of material, and the welds. There is a HUGE difference in them.

 

[harbt95]

The lug nut tractors are "normally" built heavier. But the other kinds are just fine for most types of "normal" use.


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[lil_Blue_Ford]

I don't have any John Deere tractors, but I do have a nice collection of Craftsman tractors. I have one that's a parts rig, 42" deck, 6-speed on the fender, 14.5hp twin, (deck, steering linkage and deck lift were all trashed when I got it) and it has the keyed shaft for the rear axle. I have an older silver tractor, 42" deck, 6-speed in the middle, 18hp twin, and it has the keyed rear shaft axle. Then I have a newer Craftsman GT, 50" deck, automatic hydro, 24hp twin, and it has the bolted on rear wheels.

I've had to remove the rear wheels on all three at one time or other. Given my choice, I'd rather deal with the bolted on rear wheels. Even though the tractor was a bit neglected when I got it (with only 40 hours on it, lol), the rear wheels came right off when I pulled the lugs. The other two tractors, I pulled the retaining clip and fought with the rear tires for a good bit of time because there was a little rust that had gotten in there or they were dry as a popcorn fart.

Looking at the rear axle of the GT, it looks kind of like the spindle that the lugs are on is mounted to a keyed shaft, so I'm guessing that it's not really any stronger than a keyed shaft, it's just easier to take the tires on and off. I've been half looking for a set of spindles that will mount on a keyed shaft to convert my other tractor over.

 

[gw33gp]

I think the main reason tractors use the keyed shaft is to make it easier to move the wheels in and out to match the row crop spacing or other needs to change the track width. I can't see it being any stronger than a lug nut axle.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I think the main reason tractors use the keyed shaft is to make it easier to move the wheels in and out to match the row crop spacing or other needs to change the track width. I can't see it being any stronger than a lug nut axle.

That is why but if a 30k+lb 300+hp tractor isn't ripping keyways out and losing wheels all the time what is is a 25hp 500lb lawn mower going to do?

And on the odd chance you do shear a key the axle spins inside the wheel hub, the wheel stays under the tractor.

 

[nb11]

I wouldn't buy a John Deere any place but a JD dealership. They tend to make cheap ones that are sold at Sears, Lowes, etc. look at the deck an overall construction for quality. My dad bought a good one from the dealership and we used it hard for 15 years before selling it, and it was still in great shape.


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[MPRanger]

I wouldn't buy a John Deere any place but a JD dealership. They tend to make cheap ones that are sold at Sears, Lowes, etc. look at the deck an overall construction for quality. My dad bought a good one from the dealership and we used it hard for 15 years before selling it, and it was still in great shape.


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This is very true. My dad works at a JD dealership. You won't find the same quality at Lowe's. Not to say the ones they sell won't last but don't expect to get 15+ years of use out of them.


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[naford]

+1. Go to a big box store and look at the tractors. Then go to a dealer and compare. Just about everything you buy at the big box stores is made differently to fit the box stores price point.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I wouldn't buy a John Deere any place but a JD dealership. They tend to make cheap ones that are sold at Sears, Lowes, etc. look at the deck an overall construction for quality. My dad bought a good one from the dealership and we used it hard for 15 years before selling it, and it was still in great shape.

My SX is from the mid 80's, they keep going as long as you want to look at it / throw parts at it.

Last year I rebuilt the steering, this winter I went through the carb. It is ready to do battle again. Still nowhere close to the price of a new one.