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Issue with ticking from rebuilt 3.0


JHAMMER

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Good afternoon, I'm trying to find anyone who can help me diagnose an issue that I'm having with my rebuilt 3.0. For reference, I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 2wd 3.0 V6. I recently rebuilt the motor and took it for its first drive in almost 4 months, the issue I'm having is what sounds like a lifter tick from possibly 1 or 2 lifters. So when I rebuilt the motor I did the following, pistons, rings, cam bearings, main bearing, rod bearings, timing chain, and gears. I also did much more however that's the internals, I didn't do lifters, rockers, rods, or cam due to the condition of those items. When I fired up the motor for the first time I could hear the ticking of what I think is a lifter as the motor came back to idle. I then drove around thinking that the lifter might not be fully pumped up and it seemed to go away after a few minutes but then would come back. The sound seems to go away under acceleration but will return under no load, I'm scared that I might wipe a lobe on my cam but don't know what to do at this point, any input would be much appreciated.
 


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Did you put a new oil pump in?

What's the oil pressure?
 

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I replaced the oil pump, I don't have a real oil pressure gauge just the dummy light in the truck. I did replace the oil pressure send unit though. I would think if it's oil pressure wouldn't all the lifters be ticking?
 

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I have a similar story. New lifters, new oil pump, but one lifter is "ticking" somewhere on cold. When the engine warms up the sound disappears. Changing lifters did not fix the problem , using oils of different viscosity - also. New oil pump did not change anything.
When the engine cold , oil pressure looks like at photo. When its warm up - looks normally, on the "dot".
 

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JHAMMER

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10-4 The motor hasn't had an oil change since the motor was rebuilt however it has only been run probably less than 30 miles in total. I really don't want to replace the lifters if it is a viscosity issue with the oil. I also have a smell of gas in my oil but that seems to be common on a rebuild due to the rings not fully seated to the cylinder walls. I wonder if the issue of gas being mixed in the oil would cause a loss of viscosity in the oil. What weight did you use to get the ticking to go away?
 

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10-4 The motor hasn't had an oil change since the motor was rebuilt however it has only been run probably less than 30 miles in total. I really don't want to replace the lifters if it is a viscosity issue with the oil. I also have a smell of gas in my oil but that seems to be common on a rebuild due to the rings not fully seated to the cylinder walls. I wonder if the issue of gas being mixed in the oil would cause a loss of viscosity in the oil. What weight did you use to get the ticking to go away?
The smell of gasoline in the oil is normal if the car is mostly driven short distances. I have not noticed any problems with oil viscosity due to this. I have tried 5w30\5w40\10w30\10w40 and the cold engine ticking has not disappeared.
 

pjtoledo

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did you check the lifter pre-load during assembly?
also called valve lash.

during warmer weather 15-40 is my preferred viscosity to quiet an engine down.
be sure " S " is in the specs, most 15-40 is CD which is diesel oil.
 

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did you check the lifter pre-load during assembly?
also called valve lash.

during warmer weather 15-40 is my preferred viscosity to quiet an engine down.
be sure " S " is in the specs, most 15-40 is CD which is diesel oil.
When I reinstalled the rocker and rods I looked for the Valve lash however due to this motor using roller lifters I couldn't find anything. From what I read roller lifters don't have to be lashed, is that right?
 

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The smell of gasoline in the oil is normal if the car is mostly driven short distances. I have not noticed any problems with oil viscosity due to this. I have tried 5w30\5w40\10w30\10w40 and the cold engine ticking has not disappeared.
Man that sucks, so replacing the rods and lifters isn't a guarantee.
 

Maxsevich11

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Когда я переустановил коромысло и стержни, я искал зазор клапана, однако из-за того, что в этом двигателе используются роликовые подъемники, я ничего не нашел. Судя по тому, что я читал, роликовые подъемники не нужно привязывать, верно?
[/ЦИТИРОВАТЬ]
Yes,its dont need any ре
When I reinstalled the rocker and rods I looked for the Valve lash however due to this motor using roller lifters I couldn't find anything. From what I read roller lifters don't have to be lashed, is that right?
Its dont need any adjustment.
 

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ok, the term lash was a poor choice of words. it refers to the clearance of solid lifters.

however, pre-load is needed with hydraulic lifters, both roller and non-roller.
when the rockers are tightened down the lifter should be compressed at least .050" or about 1.25mm
I could not find the specifications in the manual, .050" is common for many engines.
the 3.0 engine does not have an adjustable valve train, the parts are manufactured to fit properly without any adjustment.

did you prime the oil system and check for oil coming up all push rods onto the rockers?
 

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I prime the motor by depressing the accelerator and turning the key for about 15 seconds 3 times. I'm not sure how I would have seen if oil was coming out of the pushrods without leaving the valve covers off. I'm not trying to be funny but the manual I was using never suggested leaving the valve covers off. This was my first rebuild, however, I'm pretty knowledgeable but I seem to be finding out all kinds of tips and tricks about engine rebuilding and diagnosing I have never heard before. Can I remove the valve covers and run the motor, I thought oil would be spraying and dripping all over the place but I'm game. The other thing is I replaced the oil pressure sending unit, it was one of those things where the motor was out and it was just easier to replace it than with it in the vehicle. My question is I want to run a true oil pressure gauge but I have no idea of how to install one on this vehicle. Apparently, there is a sending sensor and a gauge sensor which one should I adapt to with a gauge? Also, I'm planning to take the valve covers off this weekend at this point should I replace all the lifters and rods and then do the pre-load procedure? Should I wait on doing the lifters and rods, this is my only vehicle and I don't want to ruin anything in the engine by running it till Saturday.
 

pjtoledo

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priming the oil system: it's done to verify oil gets to all the valve train parts properly.
during the final stages of rebuilding an engine, after all the rockers are installed, pull the cam sync unit (distributor on old stuff)
and put a 5/16 or 8mm bit on a long extension, insert it in the sync hole and engage the oil pump. or put a socket on the shaft if it stayed in.
then run the extension with a drill. after about a minute oil should appear coming up the pushrods and flowing out onto the rockers.
check that all rockers are getting oil.

you can just remove the valve covers and check while the engine is running, however oil will squirt all over and make a hellofa mess.

on the 3.0 vulcan engine you do have to check pre-load. unfortunately pre-load cannot be adjusted.
if pre-load is bad on one or more rockers all you can do is replace worn/broken components.

pre-load is checked while tightening the rocker bolt.
rotate the pushrod while tightening the bolt, when it contacts/stops rotating the bolt should go at least 3/4 turn, preferrable 1 full turn.
it can go more, a couple turns are ok.
that depresses the plunger inside the lifter. under operation the height of the plunger runs at equilibrium/compromise between the
spring pressure collapsing it and the oil pressure pumping it up. pre-load can be low or high as long as the plunger neither fully expands or
is forced to bottom out.
fully expanded will tick, bottomed out will break something.
hydraulic lifters run in contact with the cam at all times, that's why they need the preload. the plungers ability to move prevents breakage.

lifters can be disassembled and cleaned.
DO NOT MIX PARTS BETWEEN LIFTERS, do one at a time.


cycling the key before starting is priming the fuel pressure, nothing to do with oil pressure.
 

JHAMMER

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Thank you for this information, I did my engine rebuild from a manual I found online, and nowhere in the manual did it cover the information you just shared with me. So during assembly, I torqued the rocker arms to the spec and that was it. I also used the preexisting rods, lifters, and rocker arms, and I'm not sure if I would have achieved a preload on the used lifters due to them already being filled with oil. What is your take on damage from driving it a couple of days given the information on how I didn't do the correct procedure, should I park it or could I drive it a couple more days without damaging the cam or other components? So my last question is I'm about to order all new lifters and rods but do I have to order new rocker arms? Thank you for your help I really appreciated it I wish I had this knowledge before now.
 

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Update, I was in the process of installing my new rods and lifter when I came to the exhaust valve for #3. I was tightening each rocker till I came to zero lash, but on this rocker I had to tightening the screw all the way down but the rocker was still loose. So I swapped the rocker with another with the same result. I measured the valve steam to another exhaust valve completely closed and there is a difference is height. So at this point is this a bent valve, or a hung valve has anyone encountered this issue before?
 

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