Is my problem using non-TTY head bolts

[downer]

Head gasket issues after rebuild. Long story short I rebuilt my 4.0 ohv and didn't exactly follow all the rules, but followed most of them. Block was taken to reputable shop and checked and bored for new cylinders etc. New heads, gaskets, Comp cam, SOHC lower cradle etc, basically new everything including ditching the standard TTY head bolts in favor of ARP 12 point head bolts.

I have a leak at head gasket(s)
and I'm trying to determine if the non-TTY bolts are the issue or possibly the gaskets themselves. I've heard non-TTY head bolts may expand at a different rate than TTY head bolts and this may be contributing to my head gasket leak. I believe I have combustion gases pushing in to my coolant system which is pushing the gases out my overflow canister.

I've got probably 1500 miles on engine since rebuild, not a huge coolant leak but I know things aren't right. After 500 miles I retorqued heads but this brings my second question. What to torque non-TTY head bolts to with no factory spec. I'm at 90 lb/ft which I think I adequate but any feedback or opinion would be appreciated. Next step is to go back to TTY factory head bolts and as long as I'm there replace the head gaskets also.

 

[adsm08]

Well I don't think 90 was enough. Even on my 302 with non-TTY bolts the spec was over 100. Most TTY head bolts I have dealt with, until recent engines, start at 80 or 90 and have at least two sets of 90* turns, so that is well over 90 ft lbs.

Also, did you just torque them all to 90 and only do one round, or did you go around and around until they all read 90? As the head gets tightened at one bolt the one before it gets looser.

 

[downer]

Good to know. I did torque step wise initially, the re-torque was one step up, but only roughly 10 ft/lb. Given your info I think it would be reasonable to go to 100 lb/ft and re-evaluate. Thanks.

 

[adsm08]

I might go up to 120.

 

[Dirtman]

I got 120 do I hear 125?

120 going once...

120 going twice...

Sold to the gentleman in the donald duck costume for 120 foot pounds!

 

[sheep herder]

130

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

These guys will know:

https://m.facebook.com/groups/1512284478990015/?view=group

 

[ericbphoto]

Keep tightening until they break. Then back off 1/4 turn. Thats my standard torque setting for everything.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

crossed threads are tight threads. I cut it twice and its still too short.

 

[G8orFord]

You don't torque ARP studs to OEM torques specs, you torque them to ARP's torque specs and use the proper lube in the process. See attached.

 

[downer]

Keep tightening until they break. Then back off 1/4 turn. Thats my standard torque setting for everything.

lol, you mean you don't turn 90 degrees after they break right?

You don't torque ARP studs to OEM torques specs, you torque them to ARP's torque specs and use the proper lube in the process. See attached.

yes ARP bolts aren't torqued to OEM specs on the 4.0 OHV cause there aren't any OEM specs for non-TTY bolts , but i thank you for the attachment. i had not seen that before. and yes i did use assembly lubricant if anyone cares.

just for future reference, i did end up torqueing the ARP bolts to 105. still had head gasket leakage, possibly due to burn coolant deposits. got to the point where i was questioning if this little experiment was worth it. i'm guessing if i had i originally gone to 110-120, it may have been averted. today i replaced the head gaskets and head bolts with factory TTY bolts and no issues so far. Granted i did go with the thicker fel-pro HST 9081 PT-1 gaskets which i did not originally have installed.