Improving spark, Upgraded Ignition Coil VS. OEM Equivalent

[bhgl]

Howdy Folks,

I'm doing a tune up on MAB3L, and we're taking a look at cleaning up spark. We've got some quality NGK Iridium XPs going in, new NGK Wires, and now I'm staring at the the old ignition coil and one of the towers has a small crack, and overall it looks generally in bad shape, but it still in fact works. It looks to be the original Motorcraft unit, given my truck's frankenstein nature, its impossible to tell how many miles it has.

Since I'm under here, and really want to improve the overall efficiency of this motor, I'm debating spending an extra couple dollars for a quality unit, or even the extra money for an upgraded unit. Short of intake, exhaust, and maybe a mild tune down the road the motor will remain stock. I'm not looking to make a return from fuel economy, an ignition coil is not going to pay itself back before it eventually dies itself, small gains in efficiency and performance are always appreciated. Even 0.5% increases add up and for my specific use case, are worth pursuing.

Mystery meat coils like this one on Canadian Amazon can be had for 33$, reviews seem to be surprisingly good. I myself have actually had great luck with an amazon-special coil of this exact design for my Ford Freestar.

Reputable OEM replacement coils (NGK, Hitachi, Denso) start at 60-80$ CAD, with the OEM Motorcraft unit around 93$ on RockAuto (as I'm Canadian, the prices on Rockauto are great, but I will as usual pay a bit extra in duties and shipping).

(Allegedly) Upgraded units like this one from MSD 5529 are touching just under 200$ CAD, with free shipping. Steep, but a bullet I can bite. Reviews on the amazon page for the most part just seem to say it was a suitable replacement for their broken coils, and frankly, it appears to come in the same casing with no additional markings. Not to say that stickers and a red paint job make things faster, but for an upgraded part they usually do a little something? This makes me wonder if MSD just bought a quality OEM batch vs. designing an improved unit.

This Accel unit, which isn't the same design as those installed on my 3.0 V6, appears to have the most proven performance record. It's not designed for this truck in particular. The connectors ALMOST look the same, but if I need to replace the existing connector it's a 4$ part, no big deal. The wire plugs in appear to be different as well, I can grab different wires or put new plugs on the existing set, again no big deal. Big Deal however, there's no telling if the ECU will want to talk to this unit either. I can most likely find the OEM version of this coil used and see if it works before I spend the big bucks, but that's a lotta fucking around.

Finally, this Davis Unified unit through summit racing should be a direct fit, and seems to be rated well and will improve spark performance according to reviews and testimony, it'll probably cost me a pretty penny to get it over the border though, but ultimately may be worth it if it works well. Folks are saying it allows the plugs to be gapped up to .060 and spark well. Which would be that performance and efficiency gain I'm looking for.

If anyone has recommendations, or any ideas on how to improve the ignition on these models of 3.0 V6, whether that's parts, conversion, e.t.c. I'm willing to spend around 200 Canadian on a coil, or suitable upgrades/conversions that don't require substantial overhauls.

Thanks as always forum!

EDIT: Added the Davis Unified unit.

 

[bhgl]

Should be noted.

The coil packs that came with these trucks, and other Ford vehicles are solid and effective from the factory. With the cracked tower, the vehicle as it sits currently still starts and drives well.

 

[stmitch]

Not many see the need to pursue this. The threads that I've read over the years from people that have tried alternatives have made me a believer in the factory Motorcraft coilpack/basic Autolite plug combo.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I'm gonna totally agree...

Unless you do some significant changes mechanically or through tunes... the demands on your ignition are really unchanged.

Nothing but motorcraft or autolite plugs for me.

 

[bhgl]

Not many see the need to pursue this. The threads that I've read over the years from people that have tried alternatives have made me a believer in the factory Motorcraft coilpack/basic Autolite plug combo.

I'm gonna totally agree...

Unless you do some significant changes mechanically or through tunes... the demands on your ignition are really unchanged.

Nothing but motorcraft or autolite plugs for me.

That's what I've read as well, I've even used the dirt cheap A-Premium Amazon units before and had solid spark performance during a 4ish month period of hard cross country driving in my Freestar.

On the other hand, I know that upping the spark gap and voltage to the plugs on other vehicles is typically a solid modification to improve power and efficiency, particularly after doing other work to the engine.

Folks who modify other Ford vehicles like Mustangs and Taurus equipped with this coil pack have stated that they've seen gains.

Obviously, the big question is: Is it worth spending an extra 100$ vs. a Motorcraft unit.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Ignition coils are like starting batteries. It's never a bad idea to have more potential.

But even increasing the plug gap by a few thousandths... you will never come close to using the potential in that factory motorcraft coil.

But it's all good.

 

[bhgl]

Ignition coils are like starting batteries. It's never a bad idea to have more potential.

But even increasing the plug gap by a few thousandths... you will never come close to using the potential in that factory motorcraft coil.

But it's all good.

Do you think I can gap the plugs without any issue from the motorcraft coil reliably?

I have quality NGK wires, but they're a standard 8mm affair not 10.5mm, when I've installed gapped plugs in the past I would always go for a thicker wire if possible.

 

[2011Supercab]

I have quality NGK wires, but they're a standard 8mm affair not 10.5mm, when I've installed gapped plugs in the past I would always go for a thicker wire if possible.

The only difference between 8mm and 10mm spark plug wires is the insulation, to prevent spark leak and allow a wider gap to the plugs without having it arc through the wire, with extreme-output ignition systems

 

[bhgl]

The only difference between 8mm and 10mm spark plug wires is the insulation, to prevent spark leak and allow a wider gap to the plugs without having it arc through the wire, with higher voltage ignition systems

Typically larger wires have larger conducting material leading to lower resistance in the wire itself. The insulation can be made thicker but on the performance wires I used from JDMspeed on my Mazda 6 had a thicker conducting material, I don't remember what the insulation looked like compared to stock.

I don't know how much of an issue spark jump is in modern applications, I know the vintage cloth wrapped stuff had issues there

 

[RobbieD]

Nothing wrong with trying to improve something.

But . . . these trucks simply seem to like Motorcraft ignition parts the best.

After 39 years of owning Rangers, Motorcraft / Autolite parts are the only ones that I use.

 

[Lefty]

I'm going to agree with everybody else. Stick with stock Motorcraft.

While I can't say for sure, I can tell you what happened when I went through a long process of rebuilding my 2.8 liter V6. Just about every change was made for speed, including a faster cam, a Holly carburetor, headers, dual exhausts. Later on, somebody recommended a performance coil, so I swapped out the Motorcraft for an MSD. There was virtually no difference in performance or mileage.

I don't know if it's true, but a mechanic once told me that hotter coils burn through plugs faster.

My conclusion is that high performance ignitions must certainly work on a dragstrip or a track, but make little or no difference on the street.

There's a number of small things you can do to improve your engine, getting more mileage and performance.
1. Seafoam the engine. Spray directly into the throttle body. Read directions
2. Seafoam the oil about a hundred miles before an oil change. Read directions.
3. Seafoam the injectors. Add Seafoam to the gas tank.
4. Switch to all synthetic motor oil.
5. Use a higher octane gas.
6. Install a K&N filter (Some here don't like that, thinking they let too much dust in.)
7. Switch to a dual exhaust system.
8. Tighten the throttle cable (It's in the tech section).
9. Switch to an electric fan.
10. Maybe, just maybe, chip your engine.

All of these changes did not do a lot. My reg cab, 3.0 with an automatic and a 4/10 rear end does 0-60 in about 9.0 seconds, about a half second faster than when I got it. It gets about 20-21 mpg, maybe a few miles better than before.

I could be wrong but my guess is that the Vulcan will still be the Vulcan no matter what you do, It's detuned and designed to be that way.

The same might also be true if you switch to narrower tires, lower the truck, or put a camper shell on the back.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Higher octane gas only works if your engine compression is built for it. Use whatever the manual calls for, any higher octane is a waste of money.

 

[Lefty]

Higher octane gas only works if your engine compression is built for it. Use whatever the manual calls for, any higher octane is a waste of money.

Yes. I find the 3.0 runs better on 89. And yes, it's more money.

 

[bhgl]

I'm going to agree with everybody else. Stick with stock Motorcraft.

While I can't say for sure, I can tell you what happened when I went through a long process of rebuilding my 2.8 liter V6. Just about every change was made for speed, including a faster cam, a Holly carburetor, headers, dual exhausts. Later on, somebody recommended a performance coil, so I swapped out the Motorcraft for an MSD. There was virtually no difference in performance or mileage.

I don't know if it's true, but a mechanic once told me that hotter coils burn through plugs faster.

My conclusion is that high performance ignitions must certainly work on a dragstrip or a track, but make little or no difference on the street.

There's a number of small things you can do to improve your engine, getting more mileage and performance.
1. Seafoam the engine. Spray directly into the throttle body. Read directions
2. Seafoam the oil about a hundred miles before an oil change. Read directions.
3. Seafoam the injectors. Add Seafoam to the gas tank.
4. Switch to all synthetic motor oil.
5. Use a higher octane gas.
6. Install a K&N filter (Some here don't like that, thinking they let too much dust in.)
7. Switch to a dual exhaust system.
8. Tighten the throttle cable (It's in the tech section).
9. Switch to an electric fan.
10. Maybe, just maybe, chip your engine.

All of these changes did not do a lot. My reg cab, 3.0 with an automatic and a 4/10 rear end does 0-60 in about 9.0 seconds, about a half second faster than when I got it. It gets about 20-21 mpg, maybe a few miles better than before.

I could be wrong but my guess is that the Vulcan will still be the Vulcan no matter what you do, It's detuned and designed to be that way.

The same might also be true if you switch to narrower tires, lower the truck, or put a camper shell on the back.

• I'll definitely be doing a seafoam treatment soon, I've got an oil change coming up so I'll pick up a can and get to sprayin.
• It's got synthetic oil already, I actually don't think I've run a conventional oil in anything since I got my first car and a driver's license. I'll actually be using 5w20, the engine is healthy and
• E-Fan is on order.
• Air filter was replaced sometime shortly before I bought it and has tons of life in it, looks like an affordable FRAM unit. I'll sooner make a custom intake before getting a K&N filter for the truck's current setup.
• Exhaust is gonna be a research item to be honest, I really can't deal with exhaust drone since my use case involves long distances and high speed. Given the fact the truck sits at 3000-3500 RPM for hours on end, I'll need to find a solution that's quiet enough while simultaneously free flowing.

Of course, the 3.slow is gonna 3.slow. I'm most concerned with efficiency, I know that the motorcraft coils work great, I've had them in my previous cross country hauler, and even the cheapo amazon version gave me solid spark. You're right in saying performance applications require more spark, but there's a good reason why even efficiency chasing OEM motors have moved to a hotter spark, granted they've got compression ratios to match. In the event I do get a tune, it'll be nice to have that hotter spark too.

 

[Uncle Gump]

So... I'm a boomer. I cut my teeth on four wheel manual brakes... points... carbs... computer controlled carbs... goofy AIR systems... thermactor valves... distributor machines... etc...

When evolution hit port fuel and crank fire... all the nightmares of drivabilty were no longer an issue. It was a real sweet spot for me. Stone cold reliable... good factory replacements if something went south. They just run great and personally I never saw a reason to fool with a good thing. I spent my money blowing out my fuel economy with lifts... off road tires... bumpers and such. It just made me happy... and the enthusiast in me was satisfied.

You're enthusiastic about eco mod and the like. I really haven't looked into it. I'm sure there are things that make a difference. I am skeptical about things by nature... but have no technical data to back it up. Bit I can say that I've pulled plugs that were well past their service life and these good old factory coils have handled the larger plug gaps without missing a beat.