turner
Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2021
- Messages
- 31
- Reaction score
- 13
- Points
- 8
- Location
- Santa Cruz, CA
- Vehicle Year
- 1987
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger
- Engine Type
- 2.3 (4 Cylinder)
- Engine Size
- 2.3L
- Transmission
- Manual
- 2WD / 4WD
- 4WD
I couldn't tell which help sub-forum the lock assembly belongs to, trying here.
1987 4x4 2.3L Ranger, trouble-free for the two years since my last emissions test, where I went through the entire emissions train (by the manual), and tuned her up. My next emissions test is Tuesday, so the truck has chosen this exact moment to surface a few critical faults all at once.
Fault 1 - one week ago
All dash functions died while driving. No fuel gauge, radio, etc. Unplugged/inspected all fuses on the side of the road and fault disappeared, nothing replaced. Figured it was a fuse blade short.
Fault 2 - today
Try to start truck, no response from starter when the key is turned. Battery light is ON, so I remove the key to go inside and fetch the trickle charger. Battery tests above 12V+, no symptoms prior.
Fault 3 - immediately after
Try to insert key again to check the idiot lights, and key won't insert. Stops 3/4 of the way in. Wiggling doesn't work. Turning steering wheel doesn't work, wheel gets locked. Remove shroud, lube cylinder inside with aerosol graphite, tap cylinder in various places with a brass hammer while jostling the key. No dice.
Other Details
So, I'm planning to replace the cylinder lock at a minimum, although the Ford manual gives no procedure for this when the cylinder is locked in OFF. It's my experience that concurrent faults are usually related, but I don't see how in this case.
1987 4x4 2.3L Ranger, trouble-free for the two years since my last emissions test, where I went through the entire emissions train (by the manual), and tuned her up. My next emissions test is Tuesday, so the truck has chosen this exact moment to surface a few critical faults all at once.
Fault 1 - one week ago
All dash functions died while driving. No fuel gauge, radio, etc. Unplugged/inspected all fuses on the side of the road and fault disappeared, nothing replaced. Figured it was a fuse blade short.
Fault 2 - today
Try to start truck, no response from starter when the key is turned. Battery light is ON, so I remove the key to go inside and fetch the trickle charger. Battery tests above 12V+, no symptoms prior.
Fault 3 - immediately after
Try to insert key again to check the idiot lights, and key won't insert. Stops 3/4 of the way in. Wiggling doesn't work. Turning steering wheel doesn't work, wheel gets locked. Remove shroud, lube cylinder inside with aerosol graphite, tap cylinder in various places with a brass hammer while jostling the key. No dice.
Other Details
- The ignition switch is <1 yr old, OEM part
- The lock cylinder and keys are original, also tried less worn copies
- I assume the cylinder is locked in the OFF position, since I was able to remove my key before it locked
- There is nothing wedged inside the lock cylinder, it worked once, then 30 seconds later it didn't. The key I was using is intact.
- Zero symptoms on the lock cylinder beforehand, no stickiness, never needed any pressure to use it.
- I use a battery shutoff blade switch, mounted on the negative terminal, to avoid parasitic drain between uses. Closing that switch today activates some relay-type noises, which I've never noticed before. Don't know why they'd be energized before the key makes it to ON position.
So, I'm planning to replace the cylinder lock at a minimum, although the Ford manual gives no procedure for this when the cylinder is locked in OFF. It's my experience that concurrent faults are usually related, but I don't see how in this case.
Last edited: